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  1. #136
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    Feb 2006
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    Terrific looking shed but it seems a pity to lose access to all that ceiling space??

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  3. #137
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    Feb 2016
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    Rockhampton
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    Hi Bob

    Yes it is a shame to lose storage in the trusses (and to fork out associated cost of installing the ceiling) but I think the benefits such as the light reflection created by a white ceiling, cleanliness and of coarse aesthetics out weigh this.

    Cheers

  4. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonsey850 View Post
    Hi Bob

    Yes it is a shame to lose storage in the trusses (and to fork out associated cost of installing the ceiling) but I think the benefits such as the light reflection created by a white ceiling, cleanliness and of coarse aesthetics out weigh this.

    Cheers
    Did you think off at running DC ducting up there before you seal up the ceiling? I guess it would then be a bit of a PITA if you wanted to modify it,

    I guess when you run out of room you can always take down a few panels.

  5. #139
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    Feb 2016
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    Rockhampton
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    I did think about it but quickly dismissed it for that particular reason.
    It's going to be scary enough doing the electrical, making sure everything is there before sheeting the walls and ceiling.

  6. #140
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    May 2013
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    Rockhampton QLD
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    The other thing Alex with storing stuff up there would be the heat here for most of the year. My drama when our shed went up was the cost involved with sheeting and insulating the shed.

    Ross

  7. #141
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    Nov 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by rwbuild View Post
    It certainly is awesome, I think I'll call it "the Garage Mahal"
    The walls would need a five degree outward tilt for that.[emoji849]
    But it’s an awesome absolutely fantastic shed build.

    Cheers Matt

  8. #142
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    Feb 2016
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    Rockhampton
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    Good point Ross, the heat and humidity wouldn’t do timber any favours.

    I still get shocked every time I go to the hardware store. Just the battens and fibro alone cost around $2500 [emoji22].

  9. #143
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    Aug 2007
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    Saskatoon, SK, Canada.
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    What is "fibro"? We likely have it here just under another name.

    Have you given thought to the perforated metal soffit material. I think you can screw direct to the trusses and it does come in white. You wouldn't be using it to hang things from so it doesn't need to be strong.

    Pete

  10. #144
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    Feb 2016
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    Rockhampton
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    Hi Pete

    'Fibro' is a pretty loose term referring to fibre cement sheeting here in Australia. There are several manufactures and types available depending on its intended use. James Hardie is probably the most prevalent manufacturer here.

    I will check out these perforated metal sheets but I have battened the ceiling out to work with 3000x1200x4.5 Hardieflex.

    Cheers

  11. #145
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    Feb 2016
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    Rockhampton
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    Hi Pete

    'Fibro' is a pretty loose term referring to fibre cement sheeting here in Australia. There are several manufactures and types available depending on its intended use. James Hardie is probably the most prevalent manufacturer here.

    I will check out these perforated metal sheets but I have battened the ceiling out to work with 3000x1200x4.5 Hardieflex.

    Cheers

  12. #146
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    Feb 2016
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    Rockhampton
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    Ceiling battens are done.


  13. #147
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    Looking good Alex.

    Ross

  14. #148
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    Thanks Ross

  15. #149
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    Feb 2016
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    Hi

    Just seeing if anyone is able to give any input into lighting design.

    From what I have gathered a desirable amount of lighting is 1000lm/m2. This seems like a very ambitious feat to achieve for an entire workshop and is much more achievable using local spot lighting.

    I have attached a plan showing two options using battens lights or down lights for . The blue line represent the sheet joints and the pink lines the ceiling battens.

    At the moment I am leaning towards dimmable down lights rather than battens.

    Any advice appreciated.

    Cheers

    Lighting Layout.JPG

    Lighting Layout.pdf

  16. #150
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    You won't need 1000 lux (lumens/sqm) all over your shed and you should target something like double that in the areas where detailed work is being done, ie above benches etc.
    500 lux is plenty for general storage areas and something like 1500 lux above benches.
    I would forget anything dimmable as you will find you can never have too much light.
    FWIW sunlight on a clear day at 12 noon with the sun directly overhead is ~100, 000 lux.

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