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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Rockhampton
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    114

    Default Jonesy's Shed Build

    Hello All

    I am beginning the process of building a new shed. The shed will be steel stud frame construction, with eaves, gables, recycled casement windows and clad in 90mm half log to match the house. I will be constructing myself under Owner Builder Permit.

    Currently I am still liaising with shed companies to find someone who is willing to provide the engineering and a kit which which will make things easier than using and engineering/drafting company a sourcing my own materials. Most companies seem to be unwilling to put in the extra mile to making the non-standard changes to their computer models. But it looks as though I have found a company locally that seem quite keen.

    A few questions I hope may be answered here are:
    1. Where can I get 90mm half log cladding for a reasonable price in QLD? Sandgate sawmill in Brisbane has advised me that they can do it for $8/m which I think is reasonable. The only place that has it locally (Rockhampton QLD) wants $15/m (ouch).

    2. Can anyone recommend a shed company (anywhere in QLD) are specialists in this type of design, as it would be nice to get more than 1 quote.

    I have attached some photos of the cladding profile and concept elevations that I have drawn.

    Thanks in advance for any advice, it will be much appreciate.
    I will post photos as I begin building if anyone is interested.

    Cheers
    Attached Images Attached Images

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Rockhampton QLD
    Age
    64
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    1,620

    Default

    Welcome to the forum Jonsey. I suppose you would have to add freight to the $8/m quote.

    Ross

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Rockhampton
    Posts
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    Default

    Yes indeed you are correct Ross. I will most likely be buying some casement window sills off Sandgate sawmill so I will try order both together to save on shipping there. Although I donít want the cladding sitting around long as it may warp and become difficult to install.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Rockhampton
    Posts
    114

    Default

    Sill profiles if anyone is interested. I was quite surprised to find they actually still made these.
    Sill profiles.jpg
    Attached Files Attached Files

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Rockhampton
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    114

    Default

    Ok slowly finalising my draft plans. I have decided to place a 50mm step between the carport area and the shed. Also incorporate a water table trim with drip flashing. I will most likely use Hardie Plank for the trim board rather than timber.
    What are peoples opinions of the timber cladding on a steel frame, should a waterproof membrane be placed between them?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Rockhampton
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    Default

    Window frame section view.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Rockhampton
    Posts
    114

    Default

    Council planning approval received. So hopefully things will start to progress further shortly.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Brisbane
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    Default

    I like your shed size and your plan.
    I can't answer any of your questions but I would like to see pictures and know details of the whole process.

    It looks like you will have good sized eves. I am also in QLD and so I'm interested in options that include large eves as well.

    Will the air compressor and dust collector end up in the car port section?

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Little River
    Age
    73
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    838

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jonsey850 View Post
    Window frame section view.
    Having a look at your section drawing I can see a problem. The rebate in the bottom of the clading should cover the top of the window frame to prevent water running down the clading and then traveling inside along the top of the window frame. Even if it doesn't make it all the way thru it will pool against the metalwork and rust it. To do it the way you have drawn it you need to add some flashing to prevent water access.

    On the bottom of the sill the wide groove will become a harbour for spiders that will constantly cover the area below the window with cobwebs. I would recommend adjusting the groove so that the front of the cladding is up in the groove hard against the inside edge of the groove.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Rockhampton
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    114

    Default

    Hi Bohdan
    Thanks to the reply
    I do intend on placing flashing on top of the window frame (the house has quite a large flashing which I will try to imitate, otherwise the closest thing I can get from Metroll ect. I will update the drawing to show it.

    Good idea about the groove on the bottom of the sill. I have drawn the standard section the sawmill provide me with. I am assuming the groove is for the cladding to sit in? Or is it a back up drip groove? I could possibly ask for it to be removed completely. Its a bit hard to determine where the cladding will sit when laid but I was hoping it would sit up in that groove.

    Cheers

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Rockhampton
    Posts
    114

    Default

    Hi Dave
    I will make sure I keep the thread updated when construction starts.
    I am gunning for 600mm eaves, it surprising how much they protect the exterior walls from the sun and rain blow in through the windows.
    I would have liked a bigger shed but it would have been be out of proportion to the house and I don't think the council would have like the idea.

    I am a bit cautious about placing noisy things in the carport as the neighbor is fairly close (and works night shift). I will most likely park cars in the carport (how ironic...) and save the enclosed area for the workshop.

    I can give you a cost break down later on if you like.

    Cheers

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonsey850 View Post
    I am gunning for 600mm eaves, it surprising how much they protect the exterior walls from the sun and rain blow in through the windows.
    I agree. My current house and shed both have large eves and it is really impressive how much difference they make.

    The other thing that makes a huge difference is having a tree or two between the shed and the midday sun.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    23,189

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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveVman View Post
    I agree. My current house and shed both have large eves and it is really impressive how much difference they make.
    The other thing that makes a huge difference is having a tree or two between the shed and the midday sun.
    The tree thing really works.

    When I got my shed built the shed supplier bloke came and did a site pre-inspection because the new shed was being built alongside an old one and it was deemed a "difficult site". The first thing he told me was two trees near the new shed site would have go so their contractors could access the site. I left the trees there and when the subbies turned up I said I would give them a carton each if they could work around the trees which they were happy to do - especially when I told them to leave a whole side wall off the shed as this was where I was going to connect the new shed to the existing shed. They then left me behind enough Colorbond to reclad the old shed so it looked the same as the new shed. 7 years later those trees provide invaluable shade in summer.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Rockhampton
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    Saddly I had to remove all the trees in the yard (except a silky oak I’ll keep it until the time is right) they were all too large and poorly maintained (gutter clogging machines). So they got the chop, we will start fresh with some more suitable varieties. It really is horrible though with no trees the yard is so hot.

  16. #15
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    I was watching a workshop tour on YouTube yesterday. He had built his shed into a slope so that for the first meter half of it was in the ground. He had a concrete slab and concrete block for the first meter. He said that having it partially sunk into the ground gave it a large thermal mass. The temperature in the shed changed more gradually than outside. This made it more pleasant to work in and also meant the environment was more stable for the timber.
    His back wall was all above ground so water could not pool in his shed.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
    My YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/2_KPRN6I9SE

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