Thread: Levelling shed floor with yellow tongue over pine joists

You will be unlikely to find the red treated at a Bunnings in Sydney - it's designed to be used up north, and thus I don't think it's a stock item "down south".

Plan on paying for the blue. If you want straighter/better quality, avoid Bunnings and buy from a building supplier. Many are happy to open an account for DIY guys, and having bought some from Bunnings and then a Building Supplier when I was doing my shed, Bunnings can stick their potato chip shaped framing material.

*Explanation: It looks great in store, straight and all. The times we've bought from them, you get it home, and a couple weeks later, you realise it's still drying... and warping as it does so. Horrid stuff, and I won't touch it again. Your mileage may vary.

Originally Posted by Midnight Man

You will be unlikely to find the red treated at a Bunnings in Sydney - it's designed to be used up north, and thus I don't think it's a stock item "down south".

Plan on paying for the blue. If you want straighter/better quality, avoid Bunnings and buy from a building supplier. Many are happy to open an account for DIY guys, and having bought some from Bunnings and then a Building Supplier when I was doing my shed, Bunnings can stick their potato chip shaped framing material.

*Explanation: It looks great in store, straight and all. The times we've bought from them, you get it home, and a couple weeks later, you realise it's still drying... and warping as it does so. Horrid stuff, and I won't touch it again. Your mileage may vary.

Good point re finding it in Sydney. Yeah I’ll look around for the timber. But I have bought a bunch of 90x45 treated pine before from a decimated builders suppliers and it was also not dry and warped after a week in my yard. I was a bit disappointed as thought they would be better than Bunnings. Anyway, will see how we go this time around!

Plenty of good advise here for your project, just what a good forum is all about. As for noggins, I would put them where the yellow tongue butt joints occur, just to give a bit of support and possibly eliminate any future squeaking / creaking.

Alan...

Originally Posted by Uncle Al

Plenty of good advise here for your project, just what a good forum is all about. As for noggins, I would put them where the yellow tongue butt joints occur, just to give a bit of support and possibly eliminate any future squeaking / creaking.

Alan...

Thanks Alan, I will likely do that.

This just raised a potentially silly question: should the yellow tongue be oriented a particular way with respect to the joists? Eg I’ll get 3600x800 YT boards. My shed is 7200 long so will fit two boards wide nicely. My joists will be spanning the width of the shed (approx 24 of them). So the short edges of the YT will be on the joists, while the long edge will be perpendicular to the joists.

Is that ok? Does it matter?

Originally Posted by lemerv

Thanks Alan, I will likely do that.

This just raised a potentially silly question: should the yellow tongue be oriented a particular way with respect to the joists? Eg I’ll get 3600x800 YT boards. My shed is 7200 long so will fit two boards wide nicely. My joists will be spanning the width of the shed (approx 24 of them). So the short edges of the YT will be on the joists, while the long edge will be perpendicular to the joists.

Is that ok? Does it matter?

Sheets are fixed with the long side 3600 at 90deg to the joists and DON'T lay them stack pattern, lay them brick pattern ie: 2 sheets first end to end joined on a batten, then 1 sheet cut in half and lay 1/2~full~1/2, next 2 sheets as first, rinse and repeat. Put the cut ends of the 1/2 sheets at the walls. Don't use a chisel to against a tongue or groove to cramp sheets (you will regret it) use a block of wood about 500mm long, place against edge and hit block of wood with a lump hammer. ends of sheets that make a butt joint MUST join on a batten.

Hi, I have done you a batten & sheet plan, based on 300mm centres with a length of 7.2M which would require 10 sheets, however in your first post you said it was 7.3M this would require more sheets

Floor layout 3600 x 800 sheets.pdf

Originally Posted by rwbuild

Sheets are fixed with the long side 3600 at 90deg to the joists and DON'T lay them stack pattern, lay them brick pattern ie: 2 sheets first end to end joined on a batten, then 1 sheet cut in half and lay 1/2~full~1/2, next 2 sheets as first, rinse and repeat. Put the cut ends of the 1/2 sheets at the walls. Don't use a chisel to against a tongue or groove to cramp sheets (you will regret it) use a block of wood about 500mm long, place against edge and hit block of wood with a lump hammer. ends of sheets that make a butt joint MUST join on a batten.

Thanks Ray. Will do the brick pattern.

Originally Posted by Camelot

Hi, I have done you a batten & sheet plan, based on 300mm centres with a length of 7.2M which would require 10 sheets, however in your first post you said it was 7.3M this would require more sheets

Floor layout 3600 x 800 sheets.pdf

Legend! Thanks

It’s actually 7260mm to be precise. But I’m happy to fill/cover the 60 gap for the sake of not buying a whole extra piece (or will use off cuts if I have them).

Originally Posted by lemerv

Legend! Thanks

It’s actually 7260mm to be precise. But I’m happy to fill/cover the 60 gap for the sake of not buying a whole extra piece (or will use off cuts if I have them).

Thinking about it you will have just under half sheet rips you can use, so 10 sheets will do it

Joists are down and level and now looking at getting the yellow tongue. I realised I’m not 100% on how to secure it down.

I’ve read to put construction adhesive (something like liquid nails) on top of the joists then laying the yellow tongue. Is that a good idea?

As for securing it, someone mentioned 40mm countersunk screws. A few questions:

• Since the joists are H3 treated pine, is it best to use gal or ss screws as these will be happy in the treated pine? Or are gold chipboard screws ok?
• Is 40mm a good length (19mm yellow tongue into 35mm thick joist)
• What spacing for the screws along the joists?
• Should I drill a counter sink hole first or can the screws go straight in?

Lots of questions sorry. Just looking to get it right! Cheers

Use the stainless steel deck screws with a torx head @ 300mm centres, the gal ones are a pita to use. DO NOT USE CHIP BOARD SCREWS
At 300 centres max and liquid nails

glue and nails will be the quickest (assuming you have a nail gun)

Originally Posted by rwbuild

Use the stainless steel deck screws with a torx head @ 300mm centres, the gal ones are a pita to use. DO NOT USE CHIP BOARD SCREWS
At 300 centres max and liquid nails

perfect thanks

Do centres need to be closer on the edges?

Min 40mm from edges