Thread: Levelling shed floor with yellow tongue over pine joists

Flat and level make for setting up machines and benches so much easier, spend the time now to sort out and will make going forward so much easier.
Yes you can use the same material they use for decking but on the underneath side to protect against moisture coming through or of you use the plastic sheet that concreters use as a barrier so you can then lay insulation on the sheeting before putting the yellow tounge on top.
Screw the battens every 600mm.

Have used these extensively, excellent, just make sure you have the correct packing under your timber first. http://powers-guide.com/Products/Mec...nk-SPIKE%C2%AE
Take the time to pack your battens level and co-planer for a trouble free floor.
Use 40mm countersunk screws (don't over drive them, keep heads flush with top of floor)for your sheet flooring (make sure it is the termite treated sheets) and black plastic on the concrete before fitting battens.

Originally Posted by Jim Carroll

Flat and level make for setting up machines and benches so much easier, spend the time now to sort out and will make going forward so much easier.
Yes you can use the same material they use for decking but on the underneath side to protect against moisture coming through or of you use the plastic sheet that concreters use as a barrier so you can then lay insulation on the sheeting before putting the yellow tounge on top.
Screw the battens every 600mm.

Thanks Jim, will aim for level as well.

Is it worth putting in cross joists (as in small pieces perpendicular to the main joists laid in between the joists)?

Originally Posted by rwbuild

Have used these extensively, excellent, just make sure you have the correct packing under your timber first. http://powers-guide.com/Products/Mec...nk-SPIKE%C2%AE
Take the time to pack your battens level and co-planer for a trouble free floor.
Use 40mm countersunk screws (don't over drive them, keep heads flush with top of floor)for your sheet flooring (make sure it is the termite treated sheets) and black plastic on the concrete before fitting battens.

Thanks Ray. I guess those spikes are a one time only deal? Once they’re in they ain’t coming out?

With the screw length, I think I asked the question backwards. What I mean to ask is how deep should the screw penetrate the concrete?

Any tips on getting it co-planar? I have a laser level already and have watched some videos on how to mark out high and low spots in the existing floor. Was just going to reference everything to that. Any other considerations?

Noggins are not required as the joists are fixed to concrete and are only 35mm high. Nogging is used to prevent deep joists from twisting.

If you are just wanting to skin the floor the easiest is to just fix the batterns down direct to the slab and it will be as flat and level as it is now which is what generally happens when a timber floor is installed in a slab in a house. But if you are going to flatten it it really isn’t any more effort to make it level as well unless that is going to cause you issues at door openings with the different transition levels.
Set your laser up and fit you first battern down at the highest point and then just pack accordingly to maintain that height over the rest of the job. You can use a straight edge as well but find it quicker and easier with the laser
The drive in anchors Ray suggested work great and we find it easier to use a lump hammer to put them or you can use a plug and screw setup if you feel you would like some wiggle room while you are doing it. We did a 300m2 area and used Mungo plugs and battern screws as they were specified and they worked fine.

Originally Posted by lemerv

Thanks Ray. I guess those spikes are a one time only deal? Once they’re in they ain’t coming out?

With the screw length, I think I asked the question backwards. What I mean to ask is how deep should the screw penetrate the concrete? 1.5 times thickness of material being fixed

Any tips on getting it co-planar? What Beardy said I have a laser level already and have watched some videos on how to mark out high and low spots in the existing floor. Was just going to reference everything to that. Any other considerations?

It doesn't matter what fixing method you use it is critical to make the hole in the concrete at least 10mm to 15mm deeper than screw length and make sure you suck or blow all the dust out, DAMHIK.
The beauty of the pins I recommend is its a one drill operation with masonry bit through timber and concrete and about 3 or 4 hits with a lump hammer, job done a lot more fiddly with screws etc

If you have moisture (or what is called rising damp) in your concrete floor, it would mean there was no DPM put under your slab when it was first poured. If you are going to introduce a plastic DPM probably the norm would be a 1200 gauge, but if you are going to the trouble of laying a DPM then any holes drilled into your concrete should first be plugged with a waterproof mastic, which will cocoon and prevent the moisture in the concrete rusting the fixings when they are inserted into the hole.

For heavy machinery I would go with 300mm centres (probably only an extra 3/4 lengths for the area you are doing) if you are using 19mm on top, with respect to fixing, run 2 lengths down each side of your garage packing them to line & level, then use a string line at 1000mm centres fixing them and pulling them tight to the 2 lengths you have already fixed (so you may end up with 4/5 string lines running across your floor) now get 3# 10mm (they don't have to be 10mm but they do all need to be the same thickness) packers (the window packers you can buy from bunnings or any good hardware store) place 1 packer under each side of your string line where it is fixed to your first 2 line & levelled lengths, the 3rd packer is your gauge, place this under your string line and the rest of the 70mm x 35mm you still need to fix making sure the gap from the underside of the string line to the top of the batten just touches the 10mm packer (depending on the orientation of your first 2 fixed lengths you will either be able to just slide the ones that need fixing under the string lines from one end or if not then put the correct number of loose laid battens on the floor before fixing the string lines) the last thing would be to cut a few lengths of battens to act as spaces to give you the correct centres, this will be better and quicker than using a tape measure.

While this string line method may take 30 minutes to set up, it will make laying the floor battens quicker and more accurate.

Originally Posted by rwbuild

It doesn't matter what fixing method you use it is critical to make the hole in the concrete at least 10mm to 15mm deeper than screw length and make sure you suck or blow all the dust out, DAMHIK.
The beauty of the pins I recommend is its a one drill operation with masonry bit through timber and concrete and about 3 or 4 hits with a lump hammer, job done a lot more fiddly with screws etc

Noted!

Can’t find a place that seeks your specific ones but I found these. Similar concept it looks like. Express nails BZP 8 x 90mm trade box of 100

Originally Posted by Camelot

If you have moisture (or what is called rising damp) in your concrete floor, it would mean there was no DPM put under your slab when it was first poured. If you are going to introduce a plastic DPM probably the norm would be a 1200 gauge, but if you are going to the trouble of laying a DPM then any holes drilled into your concrete should first be plugged with a waterproof mastic, which will cocoon and prevent the moisture in the concrete rusting the fixings when they are inserted into the hole.

For heavy machinery I would go with 300mm centres (probably only an extra 3/4 lengths for the area you are doing) if you are using 19mm on top, with respect to fixing, run 2 lengths down each side of your garage packing them to line & level, then use a string line at 1000mm centres fixing them and pulling them tight to the 2 lengths you have already fixed (so you may end up with 4/5 string lines running across your floor) now get 3# 10mm (they don't have to be 10mm but they do all need to be the same thickness) packers (the window packers you can buy from bunnings or any good hardware store) place 1 packer under each side of your string line where it is fixed to your first 2 line & levelled lengths, the 3rd packer is your gauge, place this under your string line and the rest of the 70mm x 35mm you still need to fix making sure the gap from the underside of the string line to the top of the batten just touches the 10mm packer (depending on the orientation of your first 2 fixed lengths you will either be able to just slide the ones that need fixing under the string lines from one end or if not then put the correct number of loose laid battens on the floor before fixing the string lines) the last thing would be to cut a few lengths of battens to act as spaces to give you the correct centres, this will be better and quicker than using a tape measure.

While this string line method may take 30 minutes to set up, it will make laying the floor battens quicker and more accurate.

This is great, thanks. I like the string line method.

How would I know if I have a rising damp issue? The floor always seems dry to me (even with all this rain we’ve had the last 6 months around Sydney) but maybe I need and actual moisture meter to really tell?

Originally Posted by lemerv

This is great, thanks. I like the string line method.

How would I know if I have a rising damp issue? The floor always seems dry to me (even with all this rain we’ve had the last 6 months around Sydney) but maybe I need and actual moisture meter to really tell?

The basic crude method is to lie some plastic or rubber mat etc on the floor for a few days preferably when there is inclement weather and see if any condensation forms
Or you can use a moisture meter

Originally Posted by lemerv

Noted!

Can’t find a place that seeks your specific ones but I found these. Similar concept it looks like. Express nails BZP 8 x 90mm trade box of 100

H-IT Anchors CSK Galv 6.5 x 100mm Box 100

Originally Posted by DJ’s Timber

H-IT Anchors CSK Galv 6.5 x 100mm Box 100

Anchors, not “spikes”. I need to brush up on my lingo! Thanks

Originally Posted by lemerv

Anchors, not “spikes”. I need to brush up on my lingo! Thanks

Different manufactures / suppliers use different names , some times they are also called mushroom head pins