Thread: Light tubes need replacing

Looking at the specs on the Bunnings website for both those fluoros and those the LED tubes show 50% greater average lifetime, and ~44% of the power usage, which easily outweighs the 50c extra in cost.

However - how old are you fluoro fittings? If they are too old the ballasts in them will continue to consume power so you will not get the 44% power saving. You also will be consuming more power if you continue to use fluoro tubes. Unless you know what you are doing removing the old ballasts is a job for a sparky and it may be worthwhile completely replacing the light fittings.

I put them in my shed earlier this year; instant white illumination at the flick of a switch. Definitely recommended as a drop-in replacement.

led's every time for me I have both in my shed and the led lights are by far the superior

Thanks for the replies.

Re how old are the ballasts - approx 3 years.

For $20 I'm hoping they will be as good or better so I will give them a go.

Originally Posted by verawood

Thanks for the replies.

Re how old are the ballasts - approx 3 years.

For $20 I'm hoping they will be as good or better so I will give them a go.

3years means they will be electronic (rather than electromagnetic) ballasts should should be fine.

Originally Posted by BobL

3years means they will be electronic (rather than electromagnetic) ballasts should should be fine.

Thanks very much Bob,
like me, I'm sure every forum member appreciates your detailed answers.

All the very best to you and yours for 2021;
same to all forum members and families.

Originally Posted by BobL

3years means they will be electronic (rather than electromagnetic) ballasts should should be fine.

how can I tell or work out what age the holders or ballast may be?

Originally Posted by Tonyz

how can I tell or work out what age the holders or ballast may be?

I went by the approximate installation date of the light fittings

and if unknown

Originally Posted by Tonyz

and if unknown

If it has a starter it’s an old one, if there is no starter it’s a newer electronic type. When changing over to LED tubes on the old type, the starter has to be replaced with what is essentially a bridging fuse in a starter container which is usually supplied with the tube.

The older type one I did several years ago in the kitchen I thought the light output was slightly less than the old fluoro tube but no doubt things have improved since then.

Originally Posted by verawood

I currently have Osram 36w 1200mm Daylight 865 6500K 3250 Lumens tubes; which will need replacing soonish.

Would these from Bunnings be better or not, please.

Osram 16W 230V 4000K LED Tube Light - 2 Pack | Bunnings Warehouse

I ask because I have heard that LED tubes are better than Fluoros; but I'm guessing that could be on a cases by case basis.

thanks

Keith

Two questions on the apparent differences between these products:

Colour temperature:

• Fluros - 6500K - "daylight white",
• LEDs - 4000K - "cool white",
• My house - 3000K - "warm white".

Which type of white do members prefer in their shed? I certainly prefer warm white in the house.

Light output:

• Fluoros - 3250 lumens,
• LEDs - 1800 lumens.

Prima facie the fluoros emit a lot more light but it radiates 360° whereas the LEDs are much more focussed. Everyone seems to say LEDs provide more light at benchtop - is the correct?

PS: These tubes are much cheaper than the brilliant LED panels - hence my interest.

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

Two questions on the apparent differences between these products:
Colour temperature:

• Fluros - 6500K - "daylight white",
• LEDs - 4000K - "cool white",
• My house - 3000K - "warm white".

Which type of white do members prefer in their shed? I certainly prefer warm white in the house..

I like the cool white - especially in summer when its hot - to me it just looks/feels cooler.

Light output

• Fluoros - 3250 lumens,
• LEDs - 1800 lumens.

Prima facie the fluoros emit a lot more light but it radiates 360° whereas the LEDs are much more focussed. Everyone seems to say LEDs provide more light at benchtop - is the correct?
PS: These tubes are much cheaper than the brilliant LED panels - hence my interest.

As well as directionality issues, those fluoros will consume 36W while those LEDs will consume about 16W per tube.
Then you need to factor in lifetime - the fluoros cabin 20,000 hours while the LED tubes claim 30,000 hours.

Standard 4ft Fluoro tubes typically produce between 50 and 100 Lumens/watt, LEDs typically produce between 100 and 130 lumens/Watt.
Things are changing fast as recently Philipps came out with a prototype 200 Lumen/Watt tube.

Thanks, Bob, but the question really is "how many of those lumens actually reach my benchtop?" Not interested in a well lit ceiling.

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

Thanks, Bob, but the question really is "how many of those lumens actually reach my benchtop?" Not interested in a well lit ceiling.

What reaches the bench depends on a number of things.
LIKE
The amount of downward reflection provided by any rear reflectors behind the tubes. - especially on standard fluoros.
The presence of objects directly blocking direct light.
The reflectance of the walls machinery etc that determine the amount of reflected light coming off these surfaces.
Where you are standing.

The KPI for what you are after is not lumens, but "lux" (lumens per sum)
Maybe have a read of this?
Some actual shed illuminance measurements.
This clearly shows that you can have loads of lumens on the ceiling but end up with 1/8 of FA on the bench tops or machinery