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  1. #1
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    Default lining and insulating a steel shed

    I have been trolling the forum with no luck
    As far as the walls go I intend to line the walls with ply ,yellow tongue,mdf? with insulation between that and the steel walls,should I have a vapour barrier?
    As far as the ceiling I was thinking of foil board glued to the roof or a foil insulation with the shiny side down
    Any advice will be welcome

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  3. #2
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    Jul 2015
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    Hunter Valley
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nrb View Post
    I have been trolling the forum with no luck
    As far as the walls go I intend to line the walls with ply ,yellow tongue,mdf? with insulation between that and the steel walls,should I have a vapour barrier?
    As far as the ceiling I was thinking of foil board glued to the roof or a foil insulation with the shiny side down
    Any advice will be welcome
    You should employ some form of vapour barrier/sarking. When we moved in to our current place, the chap who had it previously simply screwed ply onto the purlins along the side walls of the shed (10m x 7m).

    We pulled it down to find mould and bug nests galore. Once we cleaned it out, we pulled all of the cladding (colourbond) off, and fitted Kingspan Insulshed 50 as a sarking along all walls and roof. Since then, not a drop of moisture.

    We're now in the process of building frame walls between the structural beams of the shed in prep for more insulation, a second vapour barrier courtesy of some Tyvek (or equivalent builders wrap), and then lining it ready to become a workshop.

    Progress has paused for a bit, but the build is shown here: Midnight's Shed

    EDIT: I should also add that at the time we installed the Kingspan, we also installed vermin sealer channels at the base of the colorbond: Vermin & Ember Seals – Vermin Proof your Shed or Home | Steel Sheds in Australia

  4. #3
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    Sep 2019
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    Default

    Sorry to resurrect old thread, but I have the same situation. Have an older coloursteel double garage, that I've been using a woodwork shed for about six months now. A couple of issues - it's not super waterproof, there are a few seams that are coming apart a bit on the walls, junk blows in under the roof ridge, and around the door etc. In particular, water blowing in the tilt door gets on my saw, and has rusted the surface whenever I forget to put a cover on it.

    With winter coming, and my "big shed" build put off few a few years due to ongoing legal/financial hassles with the ex, I find myself wanting to retrofit the garage into something nicer. I bought a cheap garden shed to move the fridge/freezer and a couple of shelves/cupboards into, to make more space for my woody stuff. (will be looking for layout + dust advice soon!) But for now I'm thinking about the basic infrastructure.

    I was just going to screw 1/2" ply to all the walls (there are wooden girts at ground level, 1200 and 2400); but the previous post my Midnight Man got me worried about mould and bugs and stuff (bugs and rodents are currently part of the "charm"). Plus, when I eventually get my shed, the garage will be used by the (new) wife for a home business, home infrared sauna, etc etc; so I'd like it to be able to look nice by then.

    I don't think I'm up for pulling off all the cladding, and there's definitely no sarking, so thinking what's the best, and reasonably cost-effective, thing to do here?

    Was thinking about Foilbond 15 between all the steel girts and columns, with a bit of an air gap, and attempting to seal a bit before hand with some gutter silicon or spray foam? Then screwing some 1/2" ply to the existing wood. (1/2" enough for french cleats?). I'd paint the ply white first just to lighten up the space too. Was assuming Foilbond for the roof too - either up against the purlin, or maybe at ceiling (2.4) height - though the roof space is useful for storage.

    What do you all think?

    I'm a bit of a geek, so made a costing spreadsheet for above, to work out area/pricing etc.
    Screen Shot 2020-04-04 at 11.18.07 am.jpg

  5. #4
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    Sep 2019
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    Default

    Interestingly Insulshed 50 costs pretty much the same price, with the same $/m^2. Any thoughts on bubble-wrap style, spray foam, or other alternatives?

    FWIW garage is 6x6m with 2.4 ceiling. About 0.5 more at the ridge. Steel frame (4 - front, back, and two in the middle), wood purlin and girts. Corrugated iron roof and steel skin.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
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    Default

    I would be looking at using the bonded insulation sarking blanket with the wool face against the external cladding ( foil side facing into room)
    If you were starting from scratch that is how it is typically installed. You can then line it with the material of choice.

    There have been a number of threads on this topic and people tend to overthink it and complicate it unnecessarily. 99% of installations are done this way

  7. #6
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    Is that something like https://www.bunnings.com.au/earthwoo...ation_p0810887

    Looks like about half the price of the others.

    How would that be even vaguely rodent resistant?

  8. #7
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    Apr 2018
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    Yes that is the product that is used in nearly every insulated metal roof installation.
    Regardless of what product you use you will need to restrict access for rodents

  9. #8
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    Mar 2018
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    Albany
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    Default

    Dont mean to hijack but im doing something similar and have a question.

    I too have a colourbond shed but with metal purlins. Going to put timber stud walls in and line with 1/2" ply. Does the sarking need to go between the cladding and the timber frame or can i simply put it ontop of the stud wall and put the ply directly on the sarking.

    There will be a 40mm air gap between the stud wall and the colourbond cladding, if that makes a difference.

  10. #9
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    You'd be better off putting the sarking on the outside face of your stud wall so you have an air gap between the outside and the inside. Can vouch for the Fletcher's shed insulation product. Works a treat.
    Ours is not to reason why.....only to point and giggle.

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