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  1. #1
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    Dec 2018
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    adelaide
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    Default Lining shed walls

    Hey guys.

    Im looking at lining my shed walls with either plywood or osb.

    A few questions. As my shed is a metal one i would only be attaching the framing to the metal supports not the tin. Will this be strong enough. I plan on haning some cabinets as wells as a lumber rack.

    Also what thickness of sheeting should i be using. I was looking at 9 or 6 mm wasnt sure if thay was thick enough.

    Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

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  3. #2
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    May 2011
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    Murray Bridge SA
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    Default

    I'd use ply, painted white or a similar colour.
    As you're going to hang "stuff" on the walls, I'd make sure that you have suitable supports behind your paneling.
    I'd use something like 12mm plus on the thickness, that way you're able to put up brackets etc, where you like.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  4. #3
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    Jul 2015
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    When we moved in to our place, the previous owner had done just that, attached plywood sheets to the purloins holding the external Colorbond sheeting.

    When we pulled it all off, we found many areas where mould was growing.

    I'd advise putting some sarking/insulshed in between the purloins and Colorbond to act as a moisture barrier first.

    This is what we did, and you can see that in this thread: Midnight's Shed (see second photo in first post).

    This turned the inside of the shed to a complete dry zone. Whilst the team had the external cladding off, we added a vermin strip to the bottom to keep the critters at bay.

    Whilst this would allow me to now reattach new plywood to those purloins, I opted to build a frame wall between the main structural beams of the shed - this will allow me to install insulation to act as a thermal and acoustic barrier, and make the place more neighbour friendly as well as usable for longer periods of the year.

  5. #4
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    dont know what part of Adelaide your in but Superior timber supplies Jennifer Crt Ridgehaven (0403 858 608) have 9, 12, 15, 19mm ply cheaper than bunnings. Its all CD structural. Iam coming over next week for more.
    I would love to grow my own food, but I can not find bacon seeds

  6. #5
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    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    Default

    Insulation definitely, and if you want to hand stuff 12mm is better than anything thinner.

  7. #6
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    Jul 2008
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    geelong
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    Default

    Yeah as others have suggested Insulate while you are at it -even just sarking helps. If it is a practical shed -not worried about looks. WELL get in contact with comercial cabinetmakers -They will always have at least packing sheets -obviously not the 3mm or 6mm kind - often 16-18mm sheets that were regects from board manufacturers (I work at a high volume user and we often had 2m+ of such board waiting for the bin ( that the company has to pay for removal) Small places -not so much -tend to be used as kicker frames or anything that is not seen, have even used white melimine sheets with only one good side -backs -could have been sides too technicly. If you end up with a mix of 16+18mm -do pack out the 16 -flat walls are always good. By the way cheap interior house paint is not favorable to melimine - but will sort of stick-don't expect it to take any kind of wear and tear though. Otherthings - if it has to take weight -pre plan and put something there before you put the skin on. The thought of 6mm supporting anything much is fantasy.

  8. #7
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    Dec 2018
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    Stratford vic
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    41
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    1566900794682757008188.jpg9mm ply . coat it with two coats off cabaothane clear ( the oil based one ) . set sheets on wall with 3mm gap between sheets . paint timber in gap black . looks slick as . to attach ply to purlins run 90 x45 battens at 400 centers .

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    adelaide
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    32
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    Default

    Thanks for the advise.

    Im going go frame it out with some insulation and budget depending either 9mm or 12mm plywood.

    Most of my stuff will be hung with french cleats so i can screen the wall side to the studs anyway. Theres a few thing i would like to hand, air hose and what not. Might just do 12mm for that side, as its seperated by a door so you wouldnt really notice it.

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  10. #9
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by highelve0065 View Post
    Im going go frame it out with some insulation and budget depending either 9mm or 12mm plywood. Most of my stuff will be hung with french cleats so i can screen the wall side to the studs anyway. Theres a few thing i would like to hand, air hose and what not. Might just do 12mm for that side, as its seperated by a door so you wouldnt really notice it.
    I made a corner where I hang gardening tools (rakes, spades, mattock, pick, block splitter, axe, whipper snipper, hedge trimmer etc) direct off the walls out of 12mm ply and the rest of mine is a mix of, 9mm ply, plaster behind large cupboards, and Miniorb sheet metal for the metal working end of the shed. I was a bit worried about how it would look but mow there is so much crap covering the walls it's hard to see what's covering what.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2021
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    Sorry to drag up an old one, but makes sense to continue.

    I have the colourbond shed with horizontal hat style purlins.

    I uses yellow tongue, 3600 x 800 x 19. Its rated against termites and can stand attached to the horizontal gal purlins at 900mm apart. $40 a sheet cover 2.8m2 and you can make cabinets and shelves and compressor boxes from the offcuts and screw them right onto the sheets. I have done half my shed and it hasnt moved or had any issue in 4-5 years. I just have the isosalation sheet behind it.

    I am about to do the rest but was wondering if anyone has something betters/easier/more cost effective or can see issues with my approach before i go too far.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Hobart
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    Default It Works !

    At $14.29 /m2 its doubtful that you will find anything so cost effective and easy to install.

    And it is strong enough to just hang shelves, bins, racks, hooks, etc, straight onto the yellow tongue.

  13. #12
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    Dec 2021
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    Thanks, i was just double checking. I am getting started and will start a shed build thread.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
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    Box Hill
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pete99 View Post
    Sorry to drag up an old one, but makes sense to continue.

    I have the colourbond shed with horizontal hat style purlins.

    I uses yellow tongue, 3600 x 800 x 19. Its rated against termites and can stand attached to the horizontal gal purlins at 900mm apart. $40 a sheet cover 2.8m2 and you can make cabinets and shelves and compressor boxes from the offcuts and screw them right onto the sheets. I have done half my shed and it hasnt moved or had any issue in 4-5 years. I just have the isosalation sheet behind it.

    I am about to do the rest but was wondering if anyone has something betters/easier/more cost effective or can see issues with my approach before i go too far.
    Hi Pete going through the same cost pain as you. At the moment I can’t anything as cheap as T&G 3600 800 x 19. The area i need to cover is roughly 290 square so the cost is not to be sneezed at.

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