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Thread: Pre-fab vs DIY for workshop
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9th November 2011, 03:46 PM #1Novice
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Pre-fab vs DIY for workshop
G'day all.
I've had a look at the various past threads covering the question of steel sheds vs wooden ones, but am still left a bit unsure which way to go (in terms of lower cost) because of my specific circumstances.
Currently my workshop is my garage. However I've always planned for a 'proper' workshop, and to that extent when my house was built some years back I made provision for one. The slab is already there (it's attached to the house), and the exterior wall which is meant to be enclosed by the shed when complete has been pre-fitted with power and other wiring (e.g. phone line and cat5 cable), and there is plumbing and drainage connections for a sink. So, pretty much, it has to go there and not somewhere else in the yard, meaning I need the shed to be no larger than the existing slab (and, preferably, exactly the size of that slab).
The issue is that the slab is 5m x 4m (the 5m length being the wall), and I am having a hard time finding a pre-fab shed that is the above dimension. Plus, if I buy a pre-fab, I'm paying for a certain amount of structure that I don't need (because I'm going to abut the shed to a brick wall).
My preferred solution is a shed with a sloping roof that starts at about 3m high and goes down to about 2.5m or thereabouts at the far end (4m from the wall).
Whichever way I go I will need a council permit, so I'd have to get the plans drafted up properly if I were to DIY.
Am I better off putting a smaller-than-slab-size pre-fab metal shed up, or perhaps getting a custom metal shed made? Or would it be reasonable to build this shed from a wooden frame given that I have a good supporting wall and don't want a fancy roof? I don't need the roof to carry much weight as I'm not going to hang anything there, and prefer the flat sloped-down style because it will match the profile of the roof attached to the wall it abuts.
Any pearls of wisdom appreciated!
NB I'm in metro Melbourne, so would end up paying whatever is the going price for framing timber here.
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9th November 2011 03:46 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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9th November 2011, 06:39 PM #2
Build from scratch - timber frame, external cladding to suit, insulation and line the internal walls with something tool friendly. It may not work out quite as cheap as a tin shed (unless you are good with scrounging around in demolition yards to find cheap windows and roof material), but will offer a higher level of amenity.
Check the renovate forums, there's a few photo documented builds there.
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9th November 2011, 10:00 PM #3
I haven't built a workshop, but I've built a couple of sheds / garages using demolition materials - stud timber walls, colourbond walls and roof and it didn't work out too bad. You still need to pay for insulation, and if maybe ply or similar for lining, but even that you can find at demo yards if you look hard.
I could give you a couple of places in Brisbane, but I'm sure there are similar in Melbourne.Cheers, Richard
"... work to a standard rather than a deadline ..." Ticky, forum member.
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10th November 2011, 08:32 AM #4Member
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Hi Chrisw, I would phone a few shed companies in your area, some shed suppliers can supply custom size, skillion roof sheds, supplied with 3 walls, complete with engineering and just the right amount of materials.
As an example a 5m long shed spanning 8m (gable design) cut in half to 4m giving you 5 x 4m shed. full size shed approx $5000 with PA and a window. If you factor for custom skillion shed and adjust to 65% of the price , you could be considering a kit supplied with engineering and plans and just the right amount of materials for around $3250-$3500 perhaps?? by my calculations.
A few calls to test them out won't hurt.Steel Sheds in Australia Helpful information for people looking to buy, build, extend or renovate a steel shed. www.shedblog.com.au
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10th November 2011, 09:55 PM #5GOLD MEMBER
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The end result of a timber frame and cladded shed is a far more pleasant place to work and enjoy your craft. Yes, it will cost more and I understand why people buy steel sheds but if the budget allows then build it yourself. Learning as you go is a great experience, you look back and wonder how it all came about, from someone who built a two storey workshop and knew absolutely nothing when I started. Also building has another advantage, you have to buy tools to build and the missus can't say no. I would put a raised floor in it if you have the headroom to get you off the concrete, also it saves tools if they fall.
CHRIS
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11th November 2011, 06:03 AM #6Novice
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11th November 2011, 06:05 AM #7Novice
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14th November 2011, 09:46 AM #8
Chrisw,
Don't E-Mail these shed companies, ring them up , E-Mail's they can ignore, personal contact is harder as you get a NAME and a phone call only costs 30cents??Personally I would build a timber frame , clad with either fibro, or hardie plank, galv iron rook , then insulate the shed and line with 7mm ply ( construction) ,
.
remember to have the shed area treated for termites before they smell your timber.
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14th November 2011, 07:40 PM #9
I guess at the end of the day the cost can be the deciding factor, taking into account your personal preferences for the material you would most be happy with.
Jeff's (vk4) right when he mentions the termites and their propensity to inhabit timber structures, but this shouldn't deter you anyway. The chances are that the home you live in is a timber frame structure, if not completely, then at least the roof and ceiling timbers; just take the necessary precautions.
By now you would have done a fair bit of homework one would think, and have some idea of your choice. Whatever it is, I'm sure you will be happy with it !
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15th November 2011, 04:06 AM #10Novice
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I'm about 100% confident I'll go ahead and build it from wood. My main issue now is to work out how to design it so that it meets council requirements, as I don't want to have the plans rejected. I've never designed anything of this scale before, so I'll have to look around for examples (I'm sure the reno forum will help in that respect).
Thanks all of you for the advice, it's appreciated.
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15th November 2011, 09:24 AM #11
Check with the local building inspectors from the council, and talk to a building plans draftsman, they will be able to point you in the right direction , or a local builder (with a cold slab ) for his trouble.
your main requirement :
1 stud size & spacing
2 roof design
3 cladding
4 roof material
5 access & power points &plumbing if any
jeff
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15th November 2011, 07:05 PM #12
90x45 f5 pine @ 450 centers on a single story (2.4mtr) building with speed brace diagonals, noggins @ centre of studs would be considered WAY over engineered. If the cost of that doesn't scare you, you'll be sweet.
Any further research would be just to see how much smaller you could go.
Time was, I could look it up for you in 5 secs but things have changed.
Cheers
Jim
Edit:
PS Actually, those specifications are what I used for my 2 story load bearing walls, just to give you an idea of how over engineered it is.
Also, having your plans knocked back by council is no big deal. They'll tell you what has to be changed. Change it, re-submit. Happens every day.
Personally, I'd put it in with 90x35 f5 @ 450 centres and I'll buy you a beer if it gets knocked back. I'd suggest the use of 90mm because window and door frames are designed for that depth.
I assume a skillion roof?
Try 150x50 f7 @ 450 centres. I'm 90% certain that would be good for an iron roof spanning 4mtrs
Centre your rafters over the studs to avoid issues with top plate size.
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