Thread: A Real Workshop

Is your side eave held up by the battens? Not sure if that will pass the building code! The batten should be supported by the rafter even at the eave not vice versa.

Mat

Today we got the roof on.

Seven sheets of Corrugated and two sheets of Polycarbonate.

I put the clear polycarbonate down either side, just off the the wall by about a metre. I hope this gives a bit of natural light to the side bench and the rest of the shed.

A gutter along the back with two outlets.

Under the Corodec is wool mat insulation.

It all went on easily. My neighbour backed his truck down the neighbours driveway. It was simple to lift the sheets from the truck, over the fence and straight onto the roof from the low end.

It looks nice and straight.


That's it for the builder. I will have to finish the rest myself. They have done a great job get the frame roof and a wall on for me. I should be able to plod along from here. He isn't far away if I get into trouble.

Kenny I ordered the treated 90 35s for the frame but the builder recommended I use 90 x 45s for the back wall because I intend to hang timber racks off it. I also bought extra, some for a double top plate and to add strength where we felt it needed it. If I hadn't bout the lighter timber initially I would have bought all 45s.
The 45s aren't treated. ........Because I forgot to ask for it. It isn't required or recommended so it shouldn't be a problem. All the bottom plates are treated.

Matt, I checked with the builder and he said the eave framing was OK. The attached pic show a more typical framing. On the other side I have a double lot of framing above the door so the eave is narrower.

I might do some drumming tomorrow then. I have several orders to do and the Indians are getting restless.
Then back to the shed.

Looking really good Scally.
Love the high roof. Makes the space look much bigger than it is.

Scally its looking good.

I just don't see why the wall along the front is at that side and not the other the small area of concrete to move machines in and out.

Thanks NC.
The high roof does feel good and the two strips of clear polycarbonate let in lots of light.

Don't worry wheelin, I have a plan!
There is enough slab connection to roll machines from the shed to the pergola. I will put a landing in front of the main doors onto the lawn. Probably timber sleepers. That will make it easier to move machines outside onto the lawn.
Not that I intend to use the lawn or pergola for woodwork, but just incase!


The polycarbonate sheets will let in plenty of heat as well as light. I wonder about the benefit of the wool insulation under the iron when I have the clear sheets. I suppose they will keep out a fair bit of heat from the iron.

But you already is using the pergola for woodworking

Scally
Can you put some louvers in the wall above the doorway to let any heat out before it gets to build up in the shed?

This is one hell of a good build

Russell

Thanks Rusel.
I do plan to put 4 windows above the front doors.

The 4 square sections from 1 off the left side wall are where they will go.

I would love louvers but I might need long arms to reach them.
Do you know a supplier I could contact?

Steady work on my own.

Side wall is on.

Boxing done for the windows above the front doors.

A couple of quotes for the sliding doors...........Gold or Gold plated?
How much do you think a timber framed door weighs?

2.7m high x 1.5m wide?

I am looking at tracks rated for 120Kg...........I think that will be enough?


No work tomorrow..........off to the Wood Show in Sydney with a couple of mates.
I hope to see a few of you guys at the Forum stand.

Cheers.

Originally Posted by Scally

2.7m high x 1.5m wide?

That works out at approx 4000 cm^3 per mm of thickness
A 20 mm thick solid wooden door of density 0.8 g/cc will then weigh ~65 kg

Hi Scally

I'm getting a number similar to BobL,
However, I suggest you'll be looking at 30mm thick doors

120kg rails are possibly on the light side

what you think is solid gold or gold plated Al framed glass doors might actuially be a reasonable price.

Thanks Bob.

I did a similar calculation and got a similar answer.

The plan is a solid timber frame about 125 x 40mm. Probably one cross member.

Two timber panels either cabinet ply ~ 10mm or Baltic Pine boards, 10mm thick.

I picked up a lot of the 10mm Baltic pine tongue & grooved boards. They are old but have been dressed. The T & G is shot so my plan is to rip it off and glue the boards into panels.

My high estimate was under 100kg per door.

Hi Scally,
I think 10mm panels are a little on the thin side for security of an external door.
Will the doors have glass panels? -- I suggest they should
Timber choice -- something suitable for outside use
Door design? -- I suggest at least three rails, bottom and lock rails around 200-250mm wide, the top rail around 120mm, Styles at 120mm wide would then look balanced.
Moldings around the panels?

Almost all the walls are up.

Just one third sheet short. Bugger.

The offcuts should be enough to do the infills near the roof on both sides.

I added some extra framing to improve support for the short top sections.

It looks like a shed now.


It's nearly time to think about the doors.
Ian, I agree with what you say. I will have a look at the timber for the panels and go to plan B if I think the baltic pine looks too thin.

There is no glass intended for the doors at this stage. I have windows above the doors so don't think I need them in the doors.


The electrician comes tomorrow to discuss the plans for the shed and pergola.
I would like to dig the trenches and drill holes through the studs and do any other non-electrical work. Then the electrician can concentrate on his skill.