Thread: Reflective foil on the walls.

If you only insulate part way up you may as well not bother, insulation will not stop humidity, to cut down humidity you require some form or air flow.

I only asked for roof insulation in my quote (they used Insulbreak 55) because I always intended on lining my roller doors with foil as they are dark blue and face north.

I ended up ordering a whole roll from Discounted Premium Shed Insulation Australia - Home and did all the walls too. It made a big difference

shed_foil_001.jpg

I have a thermal imaging camera and these next photos will probably convince you that you need to insulate any part of your shed that gets direct sun.

Here the top section isn't done yet:

IMG_0021.jpg

The thermal camera sees :

IMG_0021.png


I bought the portable scaffold in the first photo to fit out the shed, I wouldn't have done the insulation myself without it.

I can't directly answer your questions but if you're considering batts to reduce noise, I think you should consider at least installing them all the way to the roof.

Wow! Thanks for the comprehensive answer. Clearly it is worth doing. How much was the portable scaffolding? I'm under the impression it is expensive.

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The scaffold is an Intex SPA100 and I got it for $750 delivered last September. It's now $1100 from the same place...


The price I paid made it viable to purchase versus hiring scaffold over multiple weekends and all the driving that also involves. I'm probably going to use it again today to tweak my lights and will use it regularly when I build a 2m high shelf for storage along the back wall. It takes 30 seconds to fold up.


As an alternative the mobile "work platforms" made of steel are around $400.

I created a thread about this some years back. I suggest you find and read it. To summarise:

People assert all sorts of things. I did the experiment. I deployed tem sensors to monitor ambient shaded, the roof void and various places inside my house. Once I had baseline measurements I fitted foil and batts. This yielded up to 7C drops in inside temps. The roof cavity above the batts and below the foil is still obscenely hot. Thus:

1. Check the bluescope page for reflectivity of different colours and choose one that will yield a first line of defence.

2. Fit the highest rated R value insulation you can get. It probably doesn't matter what form it takes.

3. The assertion that insulating part of a wall is useless is demonstrably incorrect. The heat radiates by area. It is ideal to do it all but anything will help to some degree.

Regarding the roof I would run the numbers on what the foil is costing you compared to thick batts. Remember you will want to contain them with plastic or some sort of wall board because most bats shed and some are unpleasant. You will probably want hard inner walls.

The batts bummings sell seem to not have much irritating needles in them. I ended up ditching my mask and gloves etc and just laying them. YMMV.

Edit: Humidity is a separate problem. If you allow circulation from outside your shed will not be cooler than ambient so it needs some thought.

When we moved down from the Northwest & bought this property ,one of my first jobs was lifting the 20x10metre shed roof and installing sisalation .It made quite a difference to the internal temps inside the shed.I have not measured the temp difference, it is quite noticeable particularly in the warmer months of the year.

Originally Posted by overcoat

The scaffold is an Intex SPA100 and I got it for $750 delivered last September. It's now $1100 from the same place...
....
As an alternative the mobile "work platforms" made of steel are around $400.

Thanks. Once I get to that stage I'll do the same. The steel at half the price would be OK for me provided that I can disassemble and reassemble it myself.