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  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat View Post
    SB, a second run of the aircell under the rafters to create an airpocket may help and be lighter than batts.
    Hi Pat

    More aircell would help, but SB is in Lalla and it does get rather cold there when the fogs roll in in July - August. I would suggest that he needs batts of at least R=4, and a slow combustion stove.


    Cheers

    Graeme

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  3. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    Hi Pat

    More aircell would help, but SB is in Lalla and it does get rather cold there when the fogs roll in in July - August. I would suggest that he needs batts of at least R=4, and a slow combustion stove.


    Cheers

    Graeme
    thanks for the ideas, I've already spent mega bucks with air cell in the walls as well as batts. I was also thinking they make a batt insulating blanket with foil on one side, I'm going to use it on my new house when the roof goes on.

    SB
    Power corrupts, absolute power means we can run a hell of alot of power tools

  4. #48
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    crowie is offline Life's Good, Enjoy each new day & try to encourage
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    Quote Originally Posted by Superbunny View Post
    I was also thinking they make a batt insulating blanket with foil on one side, I'm going to use it on my new house when the roof goes on.

    SB
    G'day SB, When we had the house re-roofed the builder added the the insulation blanket under the roofing sheets and the house was warmer in winter and cooler in summer...
    I was told later that the blanket plus the original R2.5 batts give a thermal rating of 6......Cheers, crowie

  5. #49
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    You gents must have a different "R" system from us. My house, being built now, is going to have an R-80 ceiling with R-40 walls. The garage and "hobby room" above will be at least R-40 in the ceiling and R-20 walls. Vapour barrier on the inside of the insulation and All windows triple glazed. Hope we'll be comfortable at both seasonal extremes. -40C to 35C.

    Pete

  6. #50
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    Your R values are based on Imp measurements and Fahrenheit, ours are metric (SI)

    https://www.ecobob.co.nz/forum/topic...-formula-8053/

    I don't think I have seen triple glazed windows in general use anywhere in Oz, double glazing is slowly being used but the uptake appears rather slow.

    When we built our house 15 years ago, double glazing was the norm in most of Europe, when I went looking for it here most window manufacturers just shrugged their shoulders and weren't interested.

    Also your standard stud size is 2x6 ours is 2x4, or 50x150 and 50x100mm (nominal 45x90mm)

  7. #51
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    Those dang yanks and their Fahrenheit stuff.

    Believe it or not there are still areas on the West Coast building 2x4 exterior walls. Probably other places too. Double glazing is still more common too. It changes as the cost of energy increases.

  8. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by crowie View Post
    G'day SB, When we had the house re-roofed the builder added the the insulation blanket under the roofing sheets and the house was warmer in winter and cooler in summer...
    I was told later that the blanket plus the original R2.5 batts give a thermal rating of 6......Cheers, crowie

    Yep Crowne, we have to have the insulation blanket for our Bush Fire Attack level as it helps stop embers getting under the roof. All I know is I will not be around when that happens as I'll evacuate quick smart in a bush fire.

    SB
    Power corrupts, absolute power means we can run a hell of alot of power tools

  9. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by QC Inspector View Post
    You gents must have a different "R" system from us. My house, being built now, is going to have an R-80 ceiling with R-40 walls. The garage and "hobby room" above will be at least R-40 in the ceiling and R-20 walls. Vapour barrier on the inside of the insulation and All windows triple glazed. Hope we'll be comfortable at both seasonal extremes. -40C to 35C.

    Pete
    You are right, Pete.

    To convert from the yankee imperial R-values to metric just divide by 5.67.

    Thus, the r-values that you mention convert as follows:
    • R=80 converts to 14.1,
    • R=40 converts to 7.1 and
    • R=20 converts to 3.5.


    The German/Scandinavian passivhaus standard generally advocates Ceiling R=10, wall R=7 and floor R=5 with at least double glazing on all windows except those facing the north Pole where they must be triple glazed. Houses built to this standard use about 90% less heating/cooling than uninsulated houses.


    Fair Winds

    Graeme

  10. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    ....
    The German/Scandinavian passivhaus standard generally advocates Ceiling R=10, wall R=7 and floor R=5 with at least double glazing on all windows except those facing the north Pole where they must be triple glazed. Houses built to this standard use about 90% less heating/cooling than uninsulated houses....
    Also amazing just how much noise it keeps out.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  11. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers View Post
    Also amazing just how much noise it keeps out.
    So True, Cliff.

    And double glazing instantly removes drafts inside. They are actually caused by cold air falling off the inside surfaces of window panes.


    Cheers

    Graeme

  12. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    You are right, Pete.

    To convert from the yankee imperial R-values to metric just divide by 5.67.

    Thus, the r-values that you mention convert as follows:
    • R=80 converts to 14.1,
    • R=40 converts to 7.1 and
    • R=20 converts to 3.5.
    I am intregued, with our modern Australian housing and Brick Veneer construction, how do you get an R value of +7 in the walls?

  13. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by cava View Post
    I am intregued, with our modern Australian housing and Brick Veneer construction, how do you get an R value of +7 in the walls?
    In Aus you don't need to and you can't without a lot of effort.

    However QC Inspector is in Canada, where it gets really cold.
    The coldest temperature recorded in Australia is -23 C at Charlotte Pass (29 June 1994). (Coldest recorded in Tassie is -13 C.)
    These are mild in Canadian terms. This past winter has been unseasonably warm -- with highs of only -12 C where I am, and lows in the low 20s -- temps below -30 C are common. Somewhere around -40 C the authorities start closing the highways.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  14. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by cava View Post
    I am intregued, with our modern Australian housing and Brick Veneer construction, how do you get an R value of +7 in the walls?
    Simple, Cava; you don't!

    Most batts have an insulation value of about R=0.7 per 25 mm (or inch), so to get R=7 then you need 250 mm of batts. Essentially, the house has to be designed and built to take sufficient insulation; it is usually very difficult or impossible to adequately retrofit sufficiently.

    When I lived in Boston, USA, thirty years ago, the ceiling insulation in our house was about 400 mm thick! And they had just changed the framing rules for new houses so that wall studs went from 4x2 to 6x1½ inches, to allow greater thickness of insulation. A few new houses were then being built "double studded" thus allowing up to 12" of insulation.


    Fair Winds

    Graeme

  15. #59
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    Originally Posted by cava

    I am intregued, with our modern Australian housing and Brick Veneer construction, how do you get an R value of +7 in the walls?

    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    In Aus you don't need to and you can't without a lot of effort.

    Brave statement, Ian.

    Depends on where you live. Some people actually chose to live in Canberra, Charlotte Pass and Miena. But you do need even more insulation in Canada.


    Cheers

    Graeme

  16. #60
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    the phrase was "you don't need to" -- in Canada if you choose not to insulate your dwelling you will find yourself climbing into the fridge to warm up. And needing to chip ice off the inside of the doors so you can open them.
    One of the adjustments we had to make was to always carry full outdoor clothing when travelling in the car.
    If you have to get out of the car when it's -25 (with another 10 degrees of windchill) frost bite is very close at hand.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

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