Thread: New Shed build

Following the advice of Ray and Shedbound, pulled off a couple of sheets and trimmed them so I don't have a 400mm overlap.

Next I put in the window.
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I had to put some silicon around it. I need to improve my silicon application techniques.

After that, with the help of dad, we put in the roller door.
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This wasn't any harder than I expected except we hit a snag when trying to get it level. We put the first support bracket in as per the instructions. Then they suggested using water levels to get the next bracket in the right spot. I had a nice straight piece of aluminium so I put that on the first bracket and the spirit level on top. This indicated that I should be putting the bracket about 26mm above where I expected it would go. Something wasn't right. We scratched our heads, rechecked the levels, measured everything and looked at the door from all angles.

The tape measure said one thing and the spirit level said another. We knew something was wrong but couldn't work out what. We checked with another spirit level and discovered that my first spirit level was not level and the second wasn't level either. I don't know how long they've been like that. To get through the job we checked the level on the spirit level then rotated it 180 degrees. When the marker was in the mirror position after turning 180 we knew it was level.

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Once that was sorted the rest of the installation was straight forward. I just have to adjust the tension as the door wants to go up on its own. We ran out of time so thats a job for another day.

please dont think im telling you how to suck eggs, just a word of caution with adjusting the roller door be carful there is a lot of tension on the spring, make sure someone is holding the bar with a good pipe wrench(in the right direction) as when the clamps are undoneit will try to unrevel itself(yes i did learn the hard way) nothing worse than trying to rewind a roller door sorry about the spelling and punctuation very hard to correct on the tablet
regards joel

Originally Posted by shedbound

please dont think im telling you how to suck eggs, just a word of caution with adjusting the roller door be carful there is a lot of tension on the spring, make sure someone is holding the bar with a good pipe wrench(in the right direction) as when the clamps are undoneit will try to unrevel itself(yes i did learn the hard way) nothing worse than trying to rewind a roller door sorry about the spelling and punctuation very hard to correct on the tablet
regards joel

Thanks for the warning. Anyone reading my posts would see there are a lot of things I'm unaware of. Fortunately I have heard of the pitfalls of this exercise and the instructions that came with the door are quite good. I'm off to get a new pipe wrench and spirit level on Monday.

if its possible 2 people and pipe wrenches are better than 1 if you can get one on each end, that way each person can also loosen the clamps and hold the centre pipe just incase you need to back off the spring more than the wrech will allow so you dont have to reposition the wrench. if that makes senseby the way the shed looks great keep up the good work

The weather has been lousy and I've had to go to work so not a lot being done on the shed.

I have put up the brackets for the guttering. The shed manual didn't indicate what sort of fall I would need so I did a bit of googling and figured 1:500 should be OK.


Next I put together ther guttering. I had it laid out over 4 saw horses. It had to be 10.476m long. I was using my 100m meauring tape to measure it. I hope I didn't stretch the tape too much when I was laying it out. Once I joined it in to the full length it became more rigid. I'm hoping I can put it up with the help of just one other bloke.

I rang the shed supplier and gave them a list of the things I need to finish the shed and I'm waiting for that to get organised. In the meantime I reckon I'll be able to put the roof on. If the weather is OK on Wednesday and Thursday I'll have a crack.

The plan is to cut all my insulation to size to start with and then roll each strip up from both ends so it looks like a "scroll" then tie it with a piece of string. This way I figure I just have to get up on the roof and sit it on the top centre purlins, undo the string and it should roll down each side.

I have been thinking about getting the sheets onto the roof and googling what procedure to use to fix them. Since the sheets are 4m long and the walls are 2.7m high 1 or 2 people should be able to stand a sheet against the side of the shed, lift it up a metre or so and then it will seasaw over the edge of the shed. Then while 1 person holds it the other can climb the ladder in the middle of the shed, grab the other end and then position the sheet. Thats the theory. We'll see what happens in the heat of battle.

Once the sheet is up I plan to secure the first sheet on each side of the roof ( the west side). Then, from what I've read, I'll layout the rest of the sheets and secure with 1 or 2 srews as I go. Once they are all up I'll mark with a chalk line and complete the screwing.

sounds like your on the right track, 2 screws is enough when laying the sheets initially 1 through the lap in the bottom batten and 1 through the 2nd from the apex as the top batten should pick up the lower edge of the ridge capping this will be the last row of screws to put in to secure the capping. one other thing is to think which way the majority of the weather comes from and lap the roof sheets away from the prevailing wind. a few magnets are also handy to temporarily hold the sisal in place before laying the sheet( even some old speaker magnets are good) If find weathering the top edge of the sheets easier just before placing the ridge capping not before placing the sheet i use a shifter for this. checking sheets for parallel as i go provided all is square the sheets shouldnt "saw tooth" on the top and bottom edge. The pattern i use to screw off the sheets is every second rib on the bottom batten and intermediate battens from the screw in the lap, skip 2 ribs then skip 3 ribs then skip 2 ribs then you should be at the next lap screw. sorry i cant paragraph to make it easier to read as the tablet wont register the enter key in my replies.

Originally Posted by Arch Stanton

I just have to adjust the tension as the door wants to go up on its own. We ran out of time so thats a job for another day.

Never seen a couple of blokes move so fast when they were being chased by an unfurling roll-a-door that got away from them during installation.
Apparently the strap that was holding it all rolled up under tension decided to give way at a most inappropriate time. The incredible noise brought neighbours out quick smart, and when they eventually stopped laughing, helped us to wind up the door and get it back into position.
Therefore, my advice to you is - don't let the bl#$%dy thing escape, it is darn scary and very noisy.
Good luck with your shed build, you are getting good advice from fellow members.
Stay safe,

Alan...

Originally Posted by shedbound

sounds like your on the right track, 2 screws is enough when laying the sheets initially 1 through the lap in the bottom batten and 1 through the 2nd from the apex as the top batten should pick up the lower edge of the ridge capping this will be the last row of screws to put in to secure the capping. one other thing is to think which way the majority of the weather comes from and lap the roof sheets away from the prevailing wind. a few magnets are also handy to temporarily hold the sisal in place before laying the sheet( even some old speaker magnets are good) If find weathering the top edge of the sheets easier just before placing the ridge capping not before placing the sheet i use a shifter for this. checking sheets for parallel as i go provided all is square the sheets shouldnt "saw tooth" on the top and bottom edge. The pattern i use to screw off the sheets is every second rib on the bottom batten and intermediate battens from the screw in the lap, skip 2 ribs then skip 3 ribs then skip 2 ribs then you should be at the next lap screw. sorry i cant paragraph to make it easier to read as the tablet wont register the enter key in my replies.

Thanks Joel, this is very helpful.

I'll put the first 2 screws in as per your method. Do you worry about pre drilling these?

The magnets are a good idea but probably do not apply to me. I'm using Anticon which is a 60mm insulation stuck to the foil. I was planning on letting gravity hold it in place and using a clamp if it wants to flap around. I expect the colorbond might move the Anticon a bit but it will be one of those things that I deal with as it happens.

Not sure if you have finished cutting colour bond sheets but if you haven't throw away the tin snips and get yourself a diamond cut off wheel for your 100mm angle grinder. It doesn't burn he colour coating off like a fibre wheel will and it is much quicker with less cuts. Bit noisy but I guess you can't have everything

G'day Arch no I dont worry about predrilling the sheets the roof screws do a good job. Occasionally there will be a screw or two that wont play the game those ones I turf.
cheers Joel

Originally Posted by shedbound

G'day Arch no I dont worry about predrilling the sheets the roof screws do a good job. Occasionally there will be a screw or two that wont play the game those ones I turf.
cheers Joel

That sounds good. I had a few failures when I was sheeting the walls, I expect I'll probably run short and have to chase up some more in the end.

I got a bit cocky today and thought I could fit the guttering by myself. It was pretty rigid after I'd rivitted it together and put on the end caps. It is not so rigid when you are holding a 10m length and tip it upside down. It bends quite easily.

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Now it has creases in the middle. What to do? I can put it up as is and it will annoy me for the next 20 years or I can chase up a new bit of spouting and replace it. That is the preferred option but it does throw a spanner in the works. I wanted to start putting the roof on Wednesday and I don't know where I'm going to get the spouting from yet. Unless I get lucky I'll have to drive 100kms to get it and that will cost me half a day and I don't know if guttering guys carry my profile and color as a regular stock item. I really screwed up here.

I know you are suppose to put the guttering on before the roof but looking at the house guttering I reckon I might be able to get the guttering on second. The brackets are up already and if I half fold the fold down tabs I should be able to get the roof on and the guttering can fit in afterwards. If this senario can work then all is not lost. I can then order in the extra section of guttering from the local plumbing place and fit it when it comes in. I have a few days off this week and extra pair of hands and I don't want to waste the time.

thats a bit of tough luck Arch, depends on yor personal finances. if you chose to get another lenghth look like standard quad profile to me you can always roll it into the b brackets after the roof is on. Not ideal but doable

If your brackets are already fitted, DONT bend them, you will never get them back to line up properly again, also you put the 2 lengths of guttering up separately and seal/join, rivet them in situ. With a 10m gutter run, high in the middle and fall to each end , 15mm fall is ideal.
Downpipes either 90mm or 100mm round or minimum 100 x 75 rectangular

Originally Posted by shedbound

thats a bit of tough luck Arch, depends on yor personal finances. if you chose to get another lenghth look like standard quad profile to me you can always roll it into the b brackets after the roof is on. Not ideal but doable

Just checked, it is Quad. The manual says it is Sheerline but I found the packing slip and check the pics and its definitely Quad. I hope I can still get my color, Bushland, they discontinued it at the end of last year.