Thread: Shed build

Originally Posted by apple8

In the absence of finding a suitable plug, could you cut the existing plug off and crimp/solder to suitable cable? Offset the joints to avoid some bulkiness, insulate each join and then the whole completed joint with heat shrink for protection.

If the 45V was with the lamp not connected then the voltage will probably drop closer to 36V when under the load of the lamp.

Yes, could of course cut and extend, 28 wires. But don't like too. Have built numerous wiring looms from scratch for cars over the years, jointing is a last resort.


Clipsal tech called me back today. He couldn't fine what the plan was. Told him re the measured 45V, and the part number indicating 36V; silent pause, no comment. Male connector OD is 5.5 mm, and 2.5mm centre.

Now having the sizes, a bit more web searching suggests the name is 'Concentric Barrel Plugs', and 'lock-tab DC coaxial connector' (also called 'bayonet lock') offers a compromise that resists unplugging, but which will disengage when pulled hard enough.

Starting to get to the rim of the too hard basket. Might just leave the drivers in the frame for now.


Thanks for the observation re load. I'll measure again under load just for curiosity. Don't notice such big drops in 12V systems.

Marked out, punched, and drilled (3mm/8mm, then 11/32", chamfered, then tapped the mounting plates (120x90x8mm) that will be welded to the tops of the corner columns, for M10x1.25 SHCS. Also made corresponding plates ( 40x3mm flat bar) for inside the RHS, to act as washer plates. and drilled the main side to side support beams. There is now 2 bolts per plate, so as to bracket the section lying above the corner posts.

Marked out, punched, and drilled the bottom of the beams, thinking I would then use a long series 4mm drill to get the same position on the top side, but drill press etc. not set up enough yet to get secure enough and true enough plumb, so marked out top as well and went through the sequence again. Doing the bottom 50mm face of the RHS, i.e the joined/welded face, from the outside, allows locating the hole accurately. Trying to cross drill from the opposite side will cause drill point wander on the weld seam inside the RHS. Needed to utilise a spare Dawn 6" to get support at the right height. My smaller Tough has an MT and the extra length reduces what can fit on the table, so had to swing the table out and use the foot plate...

Anyways, now done. Ordered the RHS for the top, pick it up tomorrow. I had decided to get 5mm (plan C), but of course not a stocked item due low demand in this state, so back to plan B; 4mm. It'll do. Also thought to get galvanised, rather than painted, as the galv might reduce weld spatter adhesion maybe. 14 pieces of 75x50x4mm $305.13.

I picked up the RHS for the top today and first pic shows it laid up, just to check the spacing... One small disappointment is the flatness of the 75x50x4mm RHS on the non-seamed 50mm (top) side. The second pic shows the gap from the bow. A feeler gauge gives the gap as on the order of 0.20 to 0.25mm. Now I know that is bugger all in the greater scheme of things, but the blue painted 75x50x3mm offcuts from my shed build, give 0.1mm, and you can't see any light gap.

The third pic shows the 50mm non seamed face, and clearly the feed roller impression from forming at the mill. Manufacturing tolerance it may well be, but it would be better if the tolerance was as per the blue painted. It way well be differences between mills, or a result of the 4mm vs the 3mm wall. Who knows. I'll get over it but for now I'll call it mildly disappointing )

I had intended to check the flatness across the length, before tacking, after tacking, and after welding, just to see how much bow I put in it as a result of each stage ( if any he says optimistically). Approximately anyway; only have a meter steel rule, which is NOT a straight edge I know. I went to borrow a straight edge today from a mate, and thought to check it on the granite kitchen tops, straight it wasn't.

I helped a friend build a similar and smaller bench 10 years ago in Cataluyna (Spain to the geographically challenged), only 2.0mm wall thickness (severe budget restrictions), and light stretchers and stick welding as that was all we had, and all was going well, until not enough time between weldments, ended up with a 2mm bow end to end, which was a pity. But it was more than functional for the type of stuff he did.

Also stopped off at the fastener supplier to get some M10x1.25mm x 20mm SHCS. Noooo, we don't stock that length, its a fine thread [yes I know it's a fine thread , but not an extra fine M10x1.0) ] , will 25mm length do? Exposed thread under welding spatter, of course it will. Groan. Adelaide.

Got the top all tacked up yesterday. Well pleased with the result. Details of the days activities in the MetalWork forum: WELDING.

Welding table


The result:

weld_table.jpg

Still have to upend the whole lot, in order to weld the mounting plates to the tops of the four legs. But it is functional. 1400x680mm.

This morning I decided to have a bit of a cleanup, and put the vertical storage steel rack back on the trolley it used to be upon. Which required cutting the top down about 130mm in order to fit under the bottom of the mezzanine joists (2100mm) ; which was why it came off the trolley when I moved it in from the garage. I have never been able to store much material, hence the small rack, footprint is only 700 x 500mm.

So here I was, modifying the rack to fit, marked down from the top the appropriate amount, started cutting the tops of the tube with an angle grinder cutting disc, three quarters of the way through and then thought, hmm, I could lay it on my welding table! Sooo much easier )

rack_1.jpg rack_2.jpg rack_3.jpg

Cutting the top down a bit, had the advantage of laying the angle back an extra couple of degrees as well, which just puts the CG of stored bits back just enough to stop the tendency to be on the balance point; I used to bring the bottoms forward about 20mm, so it was never much, but now better.

rack_4.jpg


Moved the position as well, from back against the end wall, which made the centre accessible for sheet offcuts, and got them off the floor, and short bits in what was the back and basically wasted space. Loaded up ALL the steel I had lying around. Moving the rack allowed moving the Transpak 225 back alongside the 350i and gave more space to the right of the weld table. This also opened up just enough space to put the stands, which have been in so many places, and invariably always in the way at some point; no more!

I had picked up a couple of pack of hangers from Aldi the other day, thinking to use them to hang a ladder, but thought this am they would be just the thing to get extension cords up into unused volume. It seemed like a good idea to hang the TIG cables, power and earth for the 350i as well, better than ferreting around at the back, and in use should get them off the floor maybe.


Oh, sudden inspiration, and the extra 30mm space in one row only on the weld table, the angle grinders fit!

It is actually feeling spacious (transient delusion I'm sure), given the 'room' is only 4.6 x 2.3m.

rack_5.jpg

Had been wanting to get three of my grinder flotilla, up on a narrow stand (minimise footprint) , for a long time. There was enough pieces of leftovers from the shed build for the legs (65x35x3mm) and top spreaders (40x40x2mm, 75x50 seemed like overkill). The weld table top came into its own in laying out, and clamping up the end frames. Used Bessey WSM-9 welding clamps to square the end frames to the top pieces. Initial tack up, and test.


stand_1.jpg stand_2.jpg stand_3.jpg

I have some 22mmm Structaflor offcuts I'll use for the top, and fit the back with 12mm ply. Castors for the legs probably, maybe feet, but with insulation and lining, and floor coating to do in the coming months, I want as much as possible easily movable. Top heavy may be an issue.

The bottom needs a couple of rails, and at 280mm depth (1.8m long) building in the bottom as a cupboard will be a good space for discs, linisher belts, polishing wheels, die grinders..

I'll probably mount a 4" vice on one end; more top weight, so I am already thinking extended foot in the front.

I decided on 900mm height after setting up the grinders in a row on the welding table, but already thinking that might be a bit high. The lower side rails I stepped up from the bottom, to allow cutting down the legs if need be.

Cut an offcut of Structaflor for an initial top for the grinder bench, and to set a nominal width; don't want to give away 50mm of floor space if there is no benefit The tyranny of small work areas!

Suddenly had inspiration looking at the plate with castors, that used to be under a pedestal mounting two bench grinders back to back. The plate was redundant now having relocated the grinders to a dedicated bench.

I had two A frames stashed for the last couple of years, they were originally bolted onto the trolley (now welding table), and originally built and used for one job; to move a whole lot of melamine sheets. A clamp rack re-incarnation!

There was a bit of the 5mm C channel left over as well from trimming the weld melamine/weld table trolley, as the legs were originally higher on one end than the other. So mimicked the original mounting and bolted them using the existing castor well bolt holes.

clamp_rack_1.jpg clamp_rack_2.jpg

Played around with heights and fit, and may have to make some adjustments, but both sides are useful. Horizontal cross supports are on the inside of the A frame, in order to keep everything within the footprint. Gave a bit of extra cant with the flat bar across the front to stop the bigger clamps wobbling back and forward, when on the move.

clamp_rack_3.jpg clamp_rack_4.jpg


Well pleased with the result. All clamps in one place, at last. Footprint is 420x400mm, height 1980mm.

Geez there is no stopping you now! Great work!

Originally Posted by node105

The bottom needs a couple of rails, and at 280mm depth (1.8m long) building in the bottom as a cupboard will be a good space for discs, linisher belts, polishing wheels, die grinders..

Instead of a cupboard underneath, have a think about making a drawer system under it. Items will be more accessible, won't fall out if things are stacked on top of each other. It's more work involved but I'm certain it'll be worth it. You could store angle grinders etc in the drawers too.
I made a cabinet for my drum sander with 4 drawers underneath to store the same as you want to, anything sanding related will be in there.

Love the clamp rack, will have to make one, currently they're stored/hanging on the roof truss.
Kryn

Thanks Cal.

Kryn, that would probably be 15-20 drawers which would be ok, except for me remembering what was in which drawer. But a good idea. The other thing is it is only <300mm deep. I was thinking to do melamine dividers, and shelves with plastic parts drawers, and peg hanging for belts. In the short term, this will have to do.

I agree good to have all the same stuff (abrasives...) in the one place. I am really looking forward to getting organised .


parts_bins.jpg



Took down the panel lights and started to give the ceiling a second coat, and did first coat of white on the joists.

ceiling.jpg

I think open bins under the grinder are just going to fill with dust from the grinding. I'd go with drawers to slow that process down myself.

Pete

Originally Posted by QC Inspector

I think open bins under the grinder are just going to fill with dust from the grinding. I'd go with drawers to slow that process down myself.

Pete

Of course they would. I have material for doors, the bins pic was only intended to indicate the internals. Top will project over the top of the door edge to prevent ingress.


I have been thinking about drawers; looking at the collection of die grinder burrs, flap wheels, small wire brushes... thinking router bit like storage. Plus vice grips, hammers...

Gave the ceiling in the welding area a second coat of white, and 2 coats of Rustoleum white on the mezzanine joists.

Then mounted three LED panels with the flush mount frames I got recently. More than a bit pf a pain. I made a template for the screw positions from 3mm masonite, in order to accurately drill the screw positions. Working overhead, floppy frame... Had previously undid some screws, and slid the actual panel into the frame lengthwise, cumbersome, and just worked in the doorway, but unlikely for the other two. Tried assembling the frame and fitting the led panel, then lifting up the whole thing, but trying to locate all those mounting screws... Then tried putting up both long sides, leaving one just slightly loose, so could angle the loose side out and slip the panel up into the frame sideways (without the ends in place), and that is finally a manageable approach..


led_panel_1.jpg led_panel_2.jpg lights - 1.jpg

It's quite bright now. Given that the 'ceiling' height is only 2.1m, glare is a minor consideration. Might have to start wearing a hat.

Took the opportunity to move the shelving and welders (again/ yet again). Thinking it would be beneficial to have the welders slightly behind me when welding, rather than directly to the side of the welding table; the gun cable that bit out of the way, more laid out/bigger curves rather than coiled up near the front leg, and the welders will now cop less grinding spray, and the end linisher has more space around it, plus the little bit of floor space in front of the racks becomes useable ( rather than as it was dead space between the 2 racks facing each other. The clamp rack looks like it has found its natural home. In small spaces every little bit helps.
relocation_1.jpg relocation_2.jpg

I made the stand for the chop saw years ago, and the in and out feed rollers have been great, despite being relatively short. But it has always managed to be an awkward width. And now that I am on a mission space optimisation-wise... I had been thinking of making the in and out feed tables hinged ( either up or down) for quite a while, and also with some sort of spray catcher at the back ( got a few bits of stainless sheet that might work)..., and now with defined space, it seemed a good time to trim it.

saw_1.jpg saw_2.jpg


I was looking at peennn-terist pics last night ( &^*^% annoying site that one) , and saw a couple sitting on grids with a chute on the bottom like a sand-blast cabinet, and that seems like a really good idea. A chute will require remaking the actual trolley, a tad bigger, and really I'd be better off putting the time into getting my cold saw back into action. One thing about the last week of cutting, the amount of crap sprayed is substantial.

Whilst musing upon variations, I remembered I had a leftover piece of walkway, from the platform build. An wadda-ya know, it's just the right size. So I got to work with the grinder and cut off the in/out feed tables.

saw_2.jpg saw_4.jpg

now it fits in a convenient space!

saw_5.jpg


I screwed the Structaflor pieces of the top of the grinder bench down using metal-teks. Needed to drill pilot holes due to the 2 and 3mm wall of the rhs. I had some doors I had scored a couple of years ago, thinking they would come in handy one of these days, and so they have. Cut to width and squared, just sitting in position at the mo.

I cut some 50mm tabs from some flat bar offcuts, and drilled holes to screw the end panels on from the inside. The mig started playing funny-buggers; tacks looking like no gas. The reg on the gun side is showing 80psi and won't adjust, so I think it is time for a reg rebuild if I can get it done. Really don't want to have to buy a chincheezy current stock one.

Cupboard doors cut for the grinder bench

grinder_bench - 1.jpg


The walkway between the two mezzanines has always been a temporary solution. There are two RHS 75x50x4mm sections siting on top of the main mezzanine beams, and some structaflor clamped on top. I have got used to it but time for a more permanent solution


walkway_between_mezzanines.jpg

The option to make the walkway movable from side to side, has always been a consideration. It could act as a gantry of sorts. Still plan to install a main gantry running lengthways, suspended under the rafter apex. I bought a block and tackle from Aldi yesterday, as a short term solution, with the view to suspend it from the walkway, so I can move the 3 phase cold saw motor across to the cold saw once it is re-assembled. Or so the justification goes... Around at a mates place yesterday, he has a Anchor block & tackle on a gantry and trolley, which I had used numerous times over the years, and which he had apparantlty thought might be more use to me these days than him, and hence had thought of giving it to me. That sounded like an excellent idea, and given the Aldi one was in the boot, I thought a swap was an even better solution. So I now have an Anchor I/2 ton block and tackle. It makes a far nicer sound than the Aldi one!

walkway - 1.jpg

A bit of a web search suggests Anchor may well be a a New Zealand made unit. There is still a Anchor Engineering which is into boat building engineering these days. There is no made in Oz, or made in NZ stamping, but there is 'Approved by Dept. of labour Victoria & NSW a Classification 3' plate.. It is at least 35 years old. Since found a girder trolley on gumtree and PWB Anchor Bundoora Victoria. Also some Anchor stuff made in Japan...


I was considering just welding a couple of offcuts of 125x75x6mm angle to each end, and let the 75mm lip sit on top of the mezzanine beam. Could push that when needed, though probably some friction, to overcome. The alternate solution that has been mulled over for some time, is to put the two ends on wheels, so a bit like a ladder laying down with wheels either end, so it can be pushed sideways. To that end I welded up some wheel brackets today. I also borrowed a regulator for the Mig, and confirmed mine is cactus, and has been on the way out for some times; it now sings sweetly again with the different reg.

End plates are 100x8mm, angle is 75x75x5mm, and outer support leg and top reinforcement are 40x6mm. With only a 1/2mm clearance for the cross drilling, the axle bolts still slide through easily after welding.


walkway_2.jpg walkway_3.jpg walkway_4.jpg


These will take the vertical weight. In order to stop racking in the horizontal plane, I'll fit some extra castors in the corner of the vertical faces between mezzanine beam and walkway. They won't need to be anything special load wise; I got some from Aldi $10 / pk of 4. Probably only need two, one on each opposite corner; but 4 will look symetrical.

wheel_brackets.jpg


The plan is 600mm width between the two walkway members; the current bit of Structaflor is 400mm. I'll weld 3 lengths of 65x35x3mm RHS as spreaders, every 500mm or so, and they can also support the walkway surface. Expanded mesh ( ? 8mm) looks like the go, and comes in 3m x600mm sheets (apparently) which will do the job; 2.3m between mezzanines.