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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    The R-value is the major marketing specification for insulation and if it was adequate then they would be shouting from the rooftops.
    The other problem with R-ratings is that they are almost as unreliable as manufacturer CFM ratings of DCs.

    There is only one fully accredited R-value tester in Australia and my understanding is that they are flat out testing so a lot of testing on products is done overseas so who knows what the ratings really mean. This was one of the issues with cheap imported insulation with the recent home insulation scheme .

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  3. #17
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    Graeme (& Shedblog): thanks for the further input. I've got to admit that I'm just a LITTLE out of my depth here! I've just re-read jrock_au's advice re temperature differentiation between outside and inside environments, and in that context, I'm not all that clear as to what bearing an "R factor" actually has. My thinking is that if I can rise to being able to afford a reasonably high quality product, that has structural rigidity such that it can be screwed directly to the purlins without sagging (viz. Shedblog on 18th Jul 2013, 10:32 AM), and which traps ceiling condensation without it pooling on top of the foil (yep: this concept has me fooled as well!!), and if I have access to a reasonably coherent technical dept affiliated with the product, then I've probably covered most of the critically important bases. Then it simply comes down to an economic equation.

    Reverting to Timless Timber's photograph, it would appear that the walls are not as important, and could wait until a later date. Nevertheless, the professional finish to the walls & floor of BobL's setup I find highly attractive. As was his comment re R-ratings!!!

    And just HOW important is a layer of paint over a concrete floor???

    Strewth Ruth: how do you make the call as to whether you're up the wrong creek with a balsa paddle, or whether things are pretty cool strategy-wise??!!!

  4. #18
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    Default My Plan

    My plan is to insulate and clad the interior walls eventually.

    Had a sprky round today to quote on the electrical before I do the cladding and insulating - that's why you insulate the roof while building and clad the interior walls after the sheds built and power (and plumbing) put in.

    Least that's how I do it.

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat the Rat View Post
    . . . . how do you make the call as to whether you're up the wrong creek with a balsa paddle, or whether things are pretty cool strategy-wise??!!!
    Unless you are able and prepared to do a awful lot of leg work all you can do is go with as reputable an insulation supplier as you can.

    Painting a concrete floor is debatable.
    In areas where the soil and air a relatively dry it probably makes little difference but in areas where ground and air moisture are significant then it is definitely worth considering

    Bare concrete can absorb and then re-emit a surprising about of water eg have a read of this Waterproof concrete
    Machinery will be more prone to rust in sheds with bare concrete floors and limited ventilation.

    There are proper and expensive sealants such as are used in basements and on concrete roofs.
    Painting with a paving paint is not as good as proper concrete sealants but it does slow down the water uptake and release.

  6. #20
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    Good Morning Pat

    If you want to read up on vapour barriers and insulation then there's heaps online and at your local library. Authoritive sources include, CSIRO:
    Condensation, , BTF03WEB and
    Thermal Insulation, , BTF02WEB

    For insulation of a tin shed, it might be worth looking around at what commercial operators near you have done - they always focus on the bottom line, whereas houses are emotional! One possibility would be spray in foam (polyuretane) which is cheap for big projects but might blow your budget for a small job.

    Your walls need to be done while you have access to them, otherwise you double the size of the job.

    Re painting the concrete floor - paving paint is cheap, a tougher version is sold as factory floor paint and it is designed to be driven on by fork-lifts. One camps says floor paint makes cleaning easier and looks good, the other 50% say it is slippery and a waste of money ..... I am in the third camp.

    Wish I had thought carefully about my shed 20 years ago. Floor is not level, walls are too dark - but to do anything is a major task because of accumulated junk.


    Fair Winds

    Graeme

  7. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    Your walls need to be done while you have access to them, otherwise you double the size of the job.
    Absolutely.

    Re painting the concrete floor - paving paint is cheap, a tougher version is sold as factory floor paint and it is designed to be driven on by fork-lifts. One camps says floor paint makes cleaning easier and looks good, the other 50% say it is slippery and a waste of money ..... I am in the third camp.
    I worked on a crooked (unpainted) concrete floor shed for 35 years and was so glad to get rid of it some 18 months ago. This time I decided to paint the floor and it has not stayed slippery in the walk ways for more than a few weeks. The metal work end gets abraded pretty quickly from swarf and slag, but it is so much easier to keep clean I will repaint it again (just in the walk ways) again at the end of this year.


    Wish I had thought carefully about my shed 20 years ago. Floor is not level, walls are too dark - but to do anything is a major task because of accumulated junk.
    Folks thought I was nuts painting the gyprock white (actually its off white) but I'm glad I did. It makes a big difference on gloomy winters days.

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    I worked on a crooked (unpainted) concrete floor shed for 35 years and was so glad to get rid of it some 18 months ago. This time I decided to paint the floor and it has not stayed slippery in the walk ways for more than a few weeks. The metal work end gets abraded pretty quickly from swarf and slag, but it is so much easier to keep clean I will repaint it again (just in the walk ways) again at the end of this year.
    Thanks Bob. My floor has 50mm "waves". Skim or levelling coat of concrete is easy - moving & storing "stuff" is impossible!


    Folks thought I was nuts painting the gyprock white (actually its off white) but I'm glad I did. It makes a big difference on gloomy winters days.
    Three walls are primer pink painted brick which I thought was a light colour; one wall and ceiling is estapolled radiata VJ which I thiught was a design feature !

    I think I am nuts for not painting everything white.



    Fair Winds

    Graeme

  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    Thanks Bob. My floor has 50mm "waves". Skim or levelling coat of concrete is easy - moving & storing "stuff" is impossible!
    Yep - very awkward indeed. At one stage I though of hiring a sea container but where to put that was an major headache

    As you probably know my solution was build a new shed alongside old one - move all the crap from old shed into new and then lay a new floor in the old shed. Even though it was a lot of work I went for a completely new floor because old slab had tipped and about 2/3 was above level of new shed floor and 1/3 was below. I also took the opportunity to install some under floor electrical and dusty ducting. about 15 months of headaches but I am so glad I bit the bullet now that it's all over.


    Three walls are primer pink painted brick which I thought was a light colour; one wall and ceiling is estapolled radiata VJ which I thiught was a design feature !
    I think I am nuts for not painting everything white.
    I guess it's easy to say this in hindsight.

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