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Thread: Shed Layout Advice
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28th January 2020, 10:45 PM #16
For what it's worth, we installed this stuff: AIR-CELL Insulshed 50 | Shed Insulation | Kingspan | Australia on the walls and ceiling. Note - both walls and ceiling, the ceiling alone still leaves the possibility of condensation on the walls.
As you can see, it goes between the purlins/shed structure and the outside cladding. This creates a condensation barrier, and as a result, irrespective of outside/inside temperature differences, the inside of our shed no longer develops any condensation.
Once you get to that point, you can safely line it with nearly anything, and have no concern over mould.
I'm far from an expert, but my understanding is that mould will only occur when dampness/moisture cannot dry itself in a reasonable time naturally - if you prevent moisture to begin with, you don't have anything to be concerned about.
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28th January 2020 10:45 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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1st February 2020, 06:07 PM #17Novice
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Thanks MM, I had a quick look at the Kingspan website, and will email them to clarify a few things.
Have you attached the ply to your timber frames yet? Did you use 12mm ply? What screws did you end up using?
Appreciate all you advice/help.
Cheers.
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1st February 2020, 08:03 PM #18
We haven't gotten to the stage of lining the framed walls yet - that is a little way off yet (it's too hot to work out there with the weather we're having lately).
I'm planning on 18mm ply - mainly because we can source this at a good price from www.trademasterjoinery.com.au (their Okume ply is around $40 per sheet for 18mm, and it's perfect for this type of application).
I haven't decided on the screws yet - and would love to hear thoughts on that from others - my inclination was a button head screw to hold it well against the frame, but I think that will actually detract from the look. Whilst I value function over aesthetics, I'd still like to make it look goof if I can...
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2nd February 2020, 04:42 AM #19GOLD MEMBER
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When I put plywood decking down I found that my drywall screw gun was perfect for installing the countersunk deck screws so they were just a millimetre or so below the surface. None were overdriven and the few that stood proud because of a knot etc were easily turned in the rest of the way with a brace. The same should work on your walls. Any splinters/slivers when you are done are quickly sanded off. Those kind of screw guns are available in tool rental places here if you don't want to buy one. Try one on a small piece to see if it'll work for you.
Pete
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6th February 2020, 03:10 PM #20Novice
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For those that are contemplating lining their shed, I emailed Kingspan with a few questions:
"The shed has three metal purlins (girts ?) along the sides, at the top, middle and just off the bottom. My plan was to attach some 90 x 35 timber studs flat against the purlins as battens and then attach the ply to the timber.
What would your suggest be? Fix the Air-Cell to the metal purlins before attaching the timber battens and then ply, or timber battens and then Air-Cell and then ply over that? Also if I am installing something like the Air-Cell Insulshed 50 would I need other added insulation like Earthwool?"
Michael responded with:
"Thanks for your enquiry.
For any reflective insulation to work you need an airspace adjacent to the foil.
So what you need to ensure if that the plywood is not fixed directly against the AirCell Insulshed.
Therefor my recommendation would be to fix the AirCell to the purlins, then fix the battens in front of the AirCell, and then fix your plywood to the batten. This detail ensure that the AirCell achieves an airspace on both side.
For a Class 10a building (residential shed) this level of insulation should be sufficient enough."
Cheers.
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6th February 2020, 07:04 PM #21Member
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That's what I did with Thermalbreak 8 (foil+foam) then Tophat 64 battens w/ R2.0HD 75mm batts followed by 12mm plywood. Installing the Thermalbreak 8 was a bit of a chore though.
If I had my time again, I'd probably opt for the shed builder to wrap the shed in sisalation externally before cladding and then just do insulation batts + ply internally. The sisalation would keep condensation out and the batts would do all the insulating. Probably 90% of the thermal performance of my completed system but with a fair bit less work.
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9th February 2020, 01:42 PM #22
Good Morning MAIN2203
Coincidentally, Fine WoodWorking Magazine has just circulated some articles on woodshop design and layout to their online subscribers. Not sure if you will be able to access the following, but you may find them interesting:
How to Make Better Use of Your Shop Space - FineWoodworking
A Layout Kit for Small Shops - FineWoodworking
If there is an electronic block on those sites then the articles were copied from FWW's Tools and Shops issues that they publish just before Christmas each year. Your local library may have copies of Fine WoodWorking Magazine and they are well worth a browse.
Cheers
Graeme
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9th February 2020, 10:10 PM #23Novice
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Thanks Graeme!
Unfortunately I can’t read the articles you linked to, I can only read the first paragraph. I will try and get access to them through the library. I may even look at signing up.
Thanks for your (and everyone’s) input, it’s very much appreciated!!
cheers,
Mark
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10th February 2020, 01:33 PM #24
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10th February 2020, 06:00 PM #25
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10th February 2020, 06:12 PM #26
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12th February 2020, 11:28 AM #27
Just received some junk mail from Fine WoodWorking Magazine - coincidentally, they are currently discounting their magazine archive DVD at US$79.96.
Holiday 2019
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13th February 2020, 09:40 PM #28Member
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14th February 2020, 09:23 PM #29Member
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I didn't. Foil insulation is primarily designed to deal with radiant heat flow by reflecting it, so for Perth's climate I'm really only worried about reflecting outside heat that's trying to get in. It doesn't get cold enough in winter to worry about heat loss from inside to out. The 40mm air gap between the Colorbond sheets and Thermalbreak 8 should deal nicely with summer conditions.
Having an air gap on the inside would be important were I in a cold climate where winter heating was needed though.
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14th February 2020, 11:28 PM #30Member
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