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Thread: My shed leaks

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by DTH1 View Post
    Hi Guys,
    Having built many sheds over the years, I would suggest the simplest and most cost effective solution is to use a proper folded flashing.
    Have a talk with a steel supplier and see about having the flashing folded to suit about a 20° pitch. The photo below is with a 90° fold (arrow).
    The flashing cost should be around $15/m.

    Unscrew the bottom 2 rows of screws on the upper roof, slide the flashing up underneath the sheeting. Then mark where the trimdeck rises and cut out the sections with tin snips. Don't just cut each side and fold flat, this just invites corrosion between the flashing and the trimdeck.
    Lay everything back in place and pop-rivet the flashing to the trimdeck. Silicon and rivet the flashing joins (150mm overlap) as you go. Re-screw the upper roof sheeting back in place. Finally, silicon the rivet heads. Don't use any silicon in the tray of the trimdeck as this will stop any water that may find it's way in from getting out.

    Attachment 474863
    Im pretty sure a previous reply from someone suggested this very exact same and sure fire method to fix this issue. This is the best and would be the only way I, as a licensed builder, would make it good if asked.

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  3. #32
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    Well fix it Dear Henry! Dear Henry fix it!
    Experienced in removing the tree from the furniture

  4. #33
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    Oct 2015
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    I'm confused.
    How can I fit a flat sheet between the top sheet and the verandah sheet? There is at most 10mm gap between the two, following the profile. I could loosen the top sheets to get it in, but can't screw them down tight to the batten.
    What am I missing? Or will the bottom of the sheets just curve up?
    Edit - do I need to trim the roof sheets back so there is a gap between the verandah and the roof?

  5. #34
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    See post #24 Russ. That's what all the builders are describing, DTH1 has just stated it in a slightly different way and without acknowledging that his advice is the same as that previously given. No wonder you're confused! BUT you can't just use the flashing you also need to turn up , 'weather', the ends of the verandah sheets. Some people aren't too good at explaining things or providing all the details you need to know to complete the job, which is probably why riverbuilder neglected to point out this very necessary step in his reply to DTH1. The ends of the sheets have to be weathered because water can still be driven up through the gaps between the flashing and the verandah sheets.

  6. #35
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    Pretty sure I understand what is suggested. But see photos. It's not possible to slide a flat sheet between the top sheet and the verandah sheet.
    If the flashing is soft aluminium then it can be pressed down to follow the profile.



  7. #36
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    Yep, I hear you Russ, that's one reason I suggested you use the aluminium flashing. To use the builders method you would need to cut back the ends of the sheets on the main roof as you've suggested. As I understand it there is very little overlap between the roof sheets and the verandah sheets already without reducing it even further by cutting back the roof sheets. Regardless of what you end up doing it would be very wise to turn up a square end, 'weather', the ends of the verandah sheets. Anything has got to be better than what you've got now.

  8. #37
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    Just cut the top sheet a bit shorter so the flashing will fit up under it. Make the section that goes under the top sheet long enough to sit on the purlin. You will have to cut out the sections that sit on top of the ridges on the flatter roof so that you can fold the edge down as in post 24.
    Can't get any simpler than that.

    Hooroo.

  9. #38
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    Ok, thats clear. How long should the flat section be?

  10. #39
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    As riverbuilder suggested. 200mm.

  11. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wimmera Jack View Post
    sit on the purlin.
    No wonder the poor guy is confused, correct terminology is important. That's not a purlin, it's a batten. I would be very surprised if that roof even has purlins.

    When Russ asks how long the 'flat section' needs to be does he mean of the verandah roof or the proposed flashing, and if the flashing is he asking about the projection onto the verandah roof or the projection up under the main roof? If you really want to help him a picture is worth a thousand words. So much knowledge here so poorly delivered to the unfortunate OP.

  12. #41
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    Sorry about that. Seems I know nothing, even though I lived amongst the industry.
    Call them what you like, but I have nothing further to say.

    Hooroo

  13. #42
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    See attached, this is the correct method
    Shed Leak.pdf
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  14. #43
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    silicon ANYWHERE where water MIGHT come in -going for a second layer -foil etc wont! be effective -have to stop the primary leak. Keep your outer shell secure and all else will be good. Again anything that MIGHT leak -seal the crap out of it. -if that is not the one it wont hurt -if it is -problem solved.

  15. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by wood spirit View Post
    silicon ANYWHERE where water MIGHT come in -going for a second layer -foil etc wont! be effective -have to stop the primary leak. Keep your outer shell secure and all else will be good. Again anything that MIGHT leak -seal the crap out of it. -if that is not the one it wont hurt -if it is -problem solved.
    Is that meant to be serious advice, or are you just stirring?

  16. #45
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    Oct 2015
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    A brief update...
    I made an 'upside down turn up tool', and turned the ends of the sheets a bit more than they were.
    Seems to have done the trick, at least so far, and we have had some significant rainfall.
    A couple more sheets to do.

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