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Thread: My shed leaks

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
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    Ringwood, VIC
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    Default My shed leaks

    Well, actually it's the verandah.

    Shed and verandah roof are trimdek. The verandah roof (pretty flat) is tucked under the shed roof (steep). Water drips from the overlap. The ends of the sheets are turned up. I thought about trying to get more slope by lowering the front. The front is already low clearance though due to being on a hill.

    Any suggestions?
    I thought about a layer of foil underneath but that would just shift the water somewhere else

    (I probably should rake the leaves off it again anyway, but that won't prevent the leaks)

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  3. #2
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    Default

    How are the sheets connected at the pitch transition, do they just lap into each other or is there an under/ over flashing at the junction ?

    The leaves will definitely cause leaks if they allow the water to back up

  4. #3
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    If the verandah roof is as flat as you're indicating it takes bugger-all wind to blow the water up under the main roof when it's raining. If the verandah roof faces the prevailing weather, west to south-west where you're located, the effect will be even worse. Dirt and rubbish gets blown up the verandah roof and under the main roof, it collects there and suddenly your turned up corrugations on the end of verandah sheets are doing nothing. As Beardy has indicated you need some flashing.

  5. #4
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    Default

    The newer section of my shed has a fall of 300mm in 6m (1:20) and although it has flashing all round if enough leaves and crap build up they form a little dam about 1/2 way along one of the long edges and the water fills the dam and leaks in under the flashing.

    I also have under roof foil insulation and that fills up with water and moves the water to a nearby join. Straight into my boxes of drill bits!

    I also had leaks at the tall end section of the roof where wind would push the water under the flashing and up over the upturned ends of the sheets. I fixed this using some foam precept to the sheet metal profile, I this got from the hardware.

  6. #5
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    Default

    Any chance of a couple photos please
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  7. #6
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    Jun 2018
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    Like Bob said.
    Can you get anything like in this link in your profile.

    Suntuf Black Corrugated Foam Infill - 4 pack | Bunnings Warehouse


  8. #7
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    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
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    7,696

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by russ57 View Post
    Well, actually it's the verandah.

    Shed and verandah roof are trimdek. The verandah roof (pretty flat) is tucked under the shed roof (steep). Water drips from the overlap. The ends of the sheets are turned up. I thought about trying to get more slope by lowering the front. The front is already low clearance though due to being on a hill.

    Any suggestions?
    I thought about a layer of foil underneath but that would just shift the water somewhere else

    (I probably should rake the leaves off it again anyway, but that won't prevent the leaks)
    My shed has minimal fall for run off and if it is not kept free from leaf litter it leaks. It used to be weekly job but since the trees overhanging the workshop have gotten the chop it is down to once every few months. I presume what has happened over the years is the seals on the screws have perished, the water builds up and the roof leaks at the screws.
    CHRIS

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Ringwood, VIC
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    Default

    Thanks for everyone's comments.
    I cleaned the leaf litter today. The area of the leak had a little build up but not as bad as I feared. There are a few trees which will be getting the chop, was planned for last summer but my mates chipper decided to to chip itself.
    Photos : top view then underneath. Then close up from top. About a finger gap between the sheets

  10. #9
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    Those end of sheet upturns look light on to me.
    Good candidates for the foam infill method.

  11. #10
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    Oct 2015
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    Ringwood, VIC
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    Thanks Bob
    I did the upturns well after installation, they got "missed" during the the original install.
    Ive always wondered would those in fills just hold water and end up rusting out the sheets.
    Are they just foam, or treated in some way?

    Cos I've just realised of course that I need a flat foam, not the profile precut to fit between the sheets.
    I guess a rubber strip say 10mm thick would do..

  12. #11
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    There is really only one real way to fix it and that is to remove the under sheets, flatten the small upturn that you "panel beatted"and then using a purpose made tool to do the correct upturn and refix the sheets. I will find my DIY version of the tool and post it for you tomorrow. Those foam inserts are ONLY designed for draft and insect/bird proofing. They are a dismal failure at waterproofing long term.
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  13. #12
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    Default

    Agree with Ray, those veranda sheets are a bit short and ideally should of extended under the roof sheets a good 100mm and they need a proper weathering turn up on such a flat pitch. You can do it with some duck bill vice grips and a couple of short bits of steel or cut a slot in the end of a piece of hardwood. Ray may have a better DIY option for you.
    Looking at the crud on the sheets it looks like leaf debris has been sitting on the roof for some time, you will need to keep the area of roof routinely cleaned or water will still back up and cause issues.

    I recently was asked to do a number of storm damage reports for an insurance company from the February storms that went through Sydney. There were several homes that I could not recommend insurance approval for due to leaf buildup on similar scenarios to yours

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by rwbuild View Post
    There is really only one real way to fix it and that is to remove the under sheets, flatten the small upturn that you "panel beatted"and then using a purpose made tool to do the correct upturn and refix the sheets. I will find my DIY version of the tool and post it for you tomorrow. Those foam inserts are ONLY designed for draft and insect/bird proofing. They are a dismal failure at waterproofing long term.
    I agree the foam inserts should not be used in place of a proper upturned sheet edge and especially in OP's case. However, my shed was leaking despite using properly upturned ends of sheet. Because my roof only had a 1:20 pitch when the stiff northwesters accompanied heavy rain the wind blew the rain up along the roof under the flashing and over flowed the upturns. It only happen a couple of times a year with a specific combination of wind direction, strength and rainfall. Because the foam inserts work so well against draughts they also stopped the leaks. When I complained to mob that designed and built the shed they were going to send a bloke around with a couple of tubes of silicone but I told them not to worry about it.

    The following demonstrates the need for sufficient overhang of roofing sheets. On the older part of my shed (this has a 1:16 slope) I have one roof sheet that is about 50 mm shorter than the others at the drip line. Theoretically there should be enough overhang for the rain to runoff and easily clear the top of the stud wall as it falls off the end of the sheet. However, when heavy rain falls the runoff back-dribbles its way back up along the underneath of the sheet and some water drips onto the timber frame/fibre cement sheet and finds its way inside the shed. This took me ages to find as until I went out into a heavy rainstorm to take a look I could not see what the problem was. I fixed it by adding a short extension to the sheet.

  15. #14
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    Default

    As Beardy has pointed out even after you've fixed the turn up on the sheet ends you'll still have problems unless you're very consistent with the maintenance. Since you have to remove the sheets to do the required work it would be a golden opportunity to put some aluminium flashing from the top of that batten down on to the verandah roof sheets to help seal up that huge gap between the roof and verandah sheets - I'm assuming the sheets are zincalume. You will need to press the flashing firmly down on to the profile of the verandah sheets, even better if you could stick the flashing to the sheets. It goes without saying the you need to clean all the c!@p off the sheets before doing this.

  16. #15
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    Wimmera
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    Default

    I would think that flashing is the best way to go.
    Extend it well out from where the sheets join, and if using gal sheets, put a fold so that it reaches into the bottom of each section. You will have to cut out where the ribs are. Slow and tedious but effective.

    Regards.

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