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  1. #1
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    Default Shed lining gaps

    For those of you who have lined their shed with ply, MDF or melamine on top of a frame;
    1. Did you lay the sheets horizontal so that they were perpendicular to the studs? Did you offset them like brickwork?
    2. After a few years did you get gaps or "curling" at the ends or corners?
    3. What thickness sheets did you use?

    I am assuming that you butt jointed the sheets and didn't worry about any small gaps. But perhaps some of you went for a really smooth finish?

    I am assuming here that those who used yellow tongue probably had little/no issues due to the interlocking strips. But that stuff is heavy.
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  3. #2
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    I am currently lining my shed, its a big shed so taking a while

    I have used corrugated iron on the bottom 1300 and then 12mm MDF sheets vertical above that for the 2280mm to the roof. I added extra purlins to take the weight. I cant comment on how it will go over time but I suspect it will stay flat and true, I painted the MDF both sides to avoid moisture related bowing problems. As for the joins in the sheets, I figured it was impossible to make the join invisible so I made it a highlight instead. I cut opposing rebates on each sheet of MDF and painted the rebates black, screwed to the wall the rebates overlap but I left a 3mm gap which is the black shadow line.

    Have a look here for a picture or 2 AJ's Projects

    Cheers Andrew

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveVman View Post
    1. Did you lay the sheets horizontal so that they were perpendicular to the studs? Did you offset them like brickwork?
    Portrait style, and if the height of a sheet is not enough, another right on top.

    Quote Originally Posted by DaveVman View Post
    2. After a few years did you get gaps or "curling" at the ends or corners?
    Not enough time has elapsed to comment

    Quote Originally Posted by DaveVman View Post
    3. What thickness sheets did you use?
    15mm Okume ply from TradeMaster Joinery in Sydney

    Quote Originally Posted by DaveVman View Post
    I am assuming that you butt jointed the sheets and didn't worry about any small gaps. But perhaps some of you went for a really smooth finish?
    I intentionally left a 5mm gap between all sheets to allow for minor expansion. This looks decent, and is deemed an "architectural feature".

    See here:

    Wiring to be done.jpg

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJ. View Post
    I am currently lining my shed, its a big shed so taking a while
    Don't worry I'm still stuck on the funding stage after all these months.

    Quote Originally Posted by AJ. View Post
    ... I added extra purlins to take the weight.
    Steel ones or timber ones?

    Quote Originally Posted by AJ. View Post
    I painted the MDF both sides to avoid moisture related bowing problems.
    Uuooh I forgot to even consider that! Although I'm currently thinking 2 sided melamine anyway. but thanks to you if I go MDF, I'll undercoat both sides.

    Quote Originally Posted by AJ. View Post
    As for the joins in the sheets, I figured it was impossible to make the join invisible so I made it a highlight instead. I cut opposing rebates on each sheet of MDF and painted the rebates black, screwed to the wall the rebates overlap but I left a 3mm gap which is the black shadow line.

    Have a look here for a picture or 2 AJ's Projects

    Cheers Andrew
    Mate! Shmick as!!
    My YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/2_KPRN6I9SE

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Midnight Man View Post

    I intentionally left a 5mm gap between all sheets to allow for minor expansion.

    But it's ply! - Confused -.
    It could really move and by that much?


    Quote Originally Posted by Midnight Man View Post
    This looks decent, and is deemed an "architectural feature".

    See here:

    Wiring to be done.jpg

    Looks more than decent!
    Talk to me about your electrical. 2 drops every 1200mm? One high one low?

    (As an aside, ceiling insulation looks great!)

    Also I could not help notice your floor. Epoxy? I found a commercial epoxy floor supplies place. The system for a plain colour is about half the cost of the system with flakes. The flakes look nicer but for the size of my shed it is way too costly, even DIY. So I'm thinking an epoxy solid colour is the ticket. Is that what you have?
    My YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/2_KPRN6I9SE

  7. #6
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    My shed is all steel framed so I used 75mm c section attached to the frame in the upright orientation for maximum strength. The top 2 are directly under the original purlins and the lower one is above the original. the corrugated iron on the bottom is directly on the concrete and ultimately all the weight goes directly to the floor through the MDF, purlins and the iron. Not much of a photo but maybe you can see what I have done from this one.

    IMG_2444.jpg

    Cheers Andrew

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveVman View Post
    But it's ply! - Confused -. It could really move and by that much?
    Probably quite correct, but I didn't want to take a chance on minor settling/movement bowing out a wall panel. It still looks OK in my opinion, so I'm happy with the end result (note, the photo shows unfinished plywood, this will be varnished, or possibly shellacked as a finish.

    Quote Originally Posted by DaveVman View Post
    Talk to me about your electrical. 2 drops every 1200mm? One high one low?
    No, only one power point every 1200mm (in most places, some are a bit more distant). The top "drop" that you see is the cable that will be installed in a conduit, and run back to the switchboard, which will go in where you see the big bunch of cables poking out of the wall on the last panel on the right.

    Quote Originally Posted by DaveVman View Post
    (As an aside, ceiling insulation looks great!)
    That's just the sarking, and doesn't do much for thermal protection. MUCH more work coming on the ceiling.

    Quote Originally Posted by DaveVman View Post
    Also I could not help notice your floor. Epoxy? I found a commercial epoxy floor supplies place. The system for a plain colour is about half the cost of the system with flakes. The flakes look nicer but for the size of my shed it is way too costly, even DIY. So I'm thinking an epoxy solid colour is the ticket. Is that what you have?
    Yes, it's a solid colour, a neutral grey. It was professionally installed (the thread of my build documents the issues the installers encountered, which made be super glad it was them, and not me). I had considered a flake, but if you drop a small screw/item on a flaked floor, you never can find it again, hence the choice of a light, solid colour.

    It's got 2 coats of Poly on the top, so it should stand up well, and also possible to then recoat and take out surface wear without hitting the colour layer.

    One note the installers did mention to me - some of the flake finish "packages" you get a retail stores only contain a small percentage of the flakes you need for a decent looking flake finish.

    This space was 6.5 x 6.5 metres, and was under $2000 for them to do three coats of colour and two coats of epoxy. And I didn't have to deal with the stuff, with no knowledge of application techniques etc.

  9. #8
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    Default Don’t use MDF

    Use anything but MDF, it’s like a sponge. If you want wood to fix to, good quality a bond plywood would be hard to beat. Second choice would be white hmr melamine chipboard, which you can get in 12 mm thick.
    Anything but MDF, it will end in tears of regret using that stuff.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by riverbuilder;[URL="tel:2264878"
    2264878[/URL]]Use anything but MDF, it’s like a sponge. If you want wood to fix to, good quality a bond plywood would be hard to beat. Second choice would be white hmr melamine chipboard, which you can get in 12 mm thick.
    Anything but MDF, it will end in tears of regret using that stuff.
    I have a small shed as well that is partly converted to a room, the shed side of the dividing wall is lined with MDF, not painted or sealed in any way. That has been there for over 20 years and it is still fine, certainly no regrets here.

    Cheers Andrew

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJ. View Post
    My shed is all steel framed so I used 75mm c section attached to the frame in the upright orientation for maximum strength. ....
    IMG_2444.jpg
    Thank you so much for the photo. I was wedded to the idea of building a timber frame but with the cost of timber now, I might have to win lotto first. So I'm coming around to this idea.
    I can't see any vertical parts in that photo but I think the way you described it is a great idea.
    I could screw in vertical battens every 450mm or 300mm. As you say, I could add some sort of baseboard on a damp course to sit the sheets on. Then make sure the weight of the sheets is supported vertically through to the slab before screwing to the frame of the shed. Thus trying to limit inwards moment forces on the shed sheet frame.
    My YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/2_KPRN6I9SE

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJ. View Post
    I have a small shed as well that is partly converted to a room, the shed side of the dividing wall is lined with MDF, not painted or sealed in any way. That has been there for over 20 years and it is still fine, certainly no regrets here.

    Cheers Andrew
    Yes but Andrew, you are in SA. Up here, 10 years and 30 mins behind you, in QLD we have this stuff you probably never heard of. It's called rain. It's just like water, except it comes out of the sky. Yes, really! Out of Sky! Sounds weird but it's true. Then it soaks into the air and your clothes and every sticky pore of your skin. And it stays there for 10 months of the year. It's not fun. You're not missing anything. But anyway, way up here, far from the civilised world you live in, we do need to contend with it.
    My YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/2_KPRN6I9SE

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