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Thread: Shed Overhaul

  1. #1
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    Default Shed Overhaul

    My shed is 9m x 9m. Its chokkas with stuff and all of that stuff gets covered in dust or sparks everytime i work in there.

    At the rear of the shed are 2 x 11500 litre water tanks. I started planning to move them and extend the shed up to Wife's vegie garden, which attracted a lot of attention from the wife...resulting in her suggesting that i do a shed upgrade and leave her water tanks and garden alone. Looking back it seems like genius now

    I am going to build an L shaped room inside the shed for a workshop, total of 43m2.

    Today i cleared almost 50% of the stuff i have been storing for decades. I have already started lining the walls and tomorrow i continue. So far i have lined the walls with termite proof yellow tongue with the isosilation sheet and i have about 6m of wall to go and then i can start on internal walls. My Son in Law is a sparky so he has power points and lights worked out.

    shed.jpg

    The small part of the L will be storage and dust extraction. I intend for the mobile workbench with table saw to be part of the long internal wall, or accessible from both sides so i can wheel it out and under my carport where i can use saw horses for larger stuff or when i want to work from outside or have more room. Internal door will be opposite the external one.

    My first question is. Whats the simplest, not so expensive, but still nice internal wall. A proper stud wall covered with ply? Or is there a cheaper/easier way? The roof is about 2.9m high on that internal wall.

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  3. #2
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    90mm stud and track from Bunnings, cheaper than timber, just put some timber screwing blocks in the channel of the studs at 400mm centres to get a good anchor for screwing yellow tongue flooring sheets as wall lining.
    Studs are pre punched for electrical/plumbing , don't need bushes as the holes have a rolled edge
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  4. #3
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    Thanks mate that is crazy cheap compared to wood. I have seen these so many times on office builds i worked on (I am in IT) and didnt think of it for this. I watched a video on using it, i will definitely use it and line the door frames and lining mounting points with timber. thanks

    Next question. What is ideal size for access doors to the workshop. I need to build them into the internal wall. i was thinking as long as i can easily get 1800mm wide that should almost everything?

  5. #4
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    Sheet material in the majority is either 1200 or 1220 wide. A pair of std 820 doors will give you an opening between the doors opened at 90deg of approx 1560, (stud opening 1700)
    The other impact of door width will be width of machinery that you may move through the doorway.
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  6. #5
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    I've done a little bit of a plan for the space. i have decided against the L shape, the other 2/3 of my shed has other purposes.

    The Blue stuff is already there or fixed.
    The Green i intend to build and it will be fixed
    the Orange will be movable/sliding.
    I have lined 60% of the outer wall will yellow tongue now.

    The 4 blue squares in the middle are floor to ceiling posts that make the 9m x9m shed into 3 x 3m squares. The posts are 3m from the edge and each other.
    I wont be doing elevations, but the walls are 2700 so lots of overhead storage and 5m of shadow board and under bench storage and built in compressor etc.

    I havent finalised the position of work shop equipment yet, i will make the mitre station cable of feeding long pieces and also being the right height for the drill ad outfeed for table saw when needed etc

    My main questions are about the walls and doors in the middle. i want the shop to be as dust proof as possible. It will be a challenge with sliding, but i have a few ideas. Mainly I cant work out whether to have a pair of sliding doors in the middle and slide one to each side or one giant door? or whether to have the doors in the end section, rather than the middle section.

    shed-floor.jpg

    Any ideas for a simple sliding door. I was going to use 22mm yellow tongue and line it with horizontal reclaimed floor boards?

    Any suggestions or ideas?

  7. #6
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    Not the cheapest option but have you considered roll up doors for the two openings?

    Pete

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete99 View Post
    My main questions are about the walls and doors in the middle. i want the shop to be as dust proof as possible. It will be a challenge with sliding, but i have a few ideas. Mainly I cant work out whether to have a pair of sliding doors in the middle and slide one to each side or one giant door? or whether to have the doors in the end section, rather than the middle section.
    I sent years building so called dust proof rooms/labs and its MUCH harder than it seems.

    To start with we need to determined which way you are referring - stop dust getting in or out? or is it getting the fine dust out of the workshop but preventing the dust from getting into the rest of the shed?

    Preventing the dust getting out is asking for problems as the fine (invisible) dust levels will continue to build up inside the shop and become dangerous. In terms of sealing it's not just doors that are a problem but any tiny gaps, and Sliding doors are notoriously difficult to seal anyway.

    One way to reduce dust from getting into the non-shop part of the shed is to over pressure that part of the shed. This can be done by pumping filtered air into the non-shop AREA to create a positive pressure. On calm days, a couple of bathroom fans would probably suffice but on windy days the wind passing by a shed creates a venturi effect and will suck dust into the shed so you might need more "fanage"

    To further drive the process, as well a over pressuring the non-workshop part of the shed, good dust extraction at the source of the dust production and continually sucking air out of the shop (ie constantventilating) will help. This will create a pressure gradient between the two sections and drive a cross air flow, reducing fine dust travel from one area to another.

    In fact, if you were rigorous at making sure you always used your DC and switched the over and under pressure fans you could even do without the internal doors altogether or at least leave them open when the fans are on. You could even rig the fan switches to make sure they came on when you opened the doors.

  9. #8
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    Thanks i dont want rollers. I am keen for a timber solution.

    I will use DC, i dont mind running fans, it hasnt occurred to me to think about air pressure, but i havent given any of that much thought just yet. Sounds like now is the time. I dont mind investing and getting this right.

    At the moment its one big room and its dusty all the time. I know i wont get it perfect, but right now its awful, i just want to improve it a lot. Hiving off part of the shed to be a dedicated workshop seems like the first step? But i get your point not to have too high expectations.

    I dont especially want the doors, except for bring in sheets or rolling my table saw to the carport. These things are not all that common. I could make a swing out door/s that seals up better and act more like a wall. Wall is better for tool storage. But the sliders seem easiest...but more difficult to seal?

  10. #9
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    I think you are thinking concealed slider? I would think that will be difficult using solid timber, especially to seal it. If not concealed you will lose a lot of wall area. I think swinging doors will be easier.
    Also, 3m is not that wide. My shed is 3x5 approx, although I have way too much in it, it is narrow.
    What is going in the centre section? Could you use some of the space for the workshop?

  11. #10
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    Thanks. I have made some final decisions. I will do normal swing out doors. 1 set of doubles and 1 personal access door. I was getting too fancy with sliding (slower and more costly). I intend to order all of the stud wall stuff this week. My aim is to get the wall up in Jan.

    I wish i could go wider. I will have to live with it for now. I have other things (cars for example) in the shed and i cant use all the space for the workshop. I will keep it minimalist though and create space around the table saw and make fold out/portable sections to extend it when needed.

  12. #11
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    If cars were supposed to live in garages they wouldn't put waterproof paint on them... 😂
    Given your circumstances 3x9 isn't bad...

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by russ57 View Post
    If cars were supposed to live in garages they wouldn't put waterproof paint on them... 😂
    You will never say that again after getting into a car when it's -40C.

    Pete

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by QC Inspector View Post
    You will never say that again after getting into a car when it's -40C.

    Pete
    With us its more like the reverse ie getting into a car when its +40+C.
    Very few of our garages are insulated so the closest to this would be houses with underground garages although the typical rollers doors used and stiff hot winds coming off central Australia can even heat these setups.

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    With us its more like the reverse ie getting into a car when its +40+C.
    Very few of our garages are insulated so the closest to this would be houses with underground garages although the typical rollers doors used and stiff hot winds coming off central Australia can even heat these setups.

    I get that Bob. We get 40C days in the summer and in Western Canada they were hitting 50C last year when they were burning up.

    Hopping onto black vinyl seats in a closed black van, shirtless and in short shorts teaches you to hover.

    Pete

  16. #15
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    Made a little progress. Making the 9x3m workshop section. Bought the doors, built and installed 1st stud wall section...will finish the next 2 stud wall sections (each is 3m) and have it lined this week. Then i can start organising and get ridding of the stuff in there.

    I wasnt planning on lining the roof to save $$$ but its better to use some light ply and line it now?

    wall1.jpg

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