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3rd April 2012, 11:12 PM #1Novice
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Shed security - improve on standard locks
I have a 6m x 6m colorbond shed. The only entrance points are one 4.6m roller door and a PA door. No windows or anything.
The roller door has the standard lock. The PA door has a T-handle lock with a long cam type bar securing behind. Pictures are attached of my situation.
I'm a bit worried mainly with the PA door lock as the back bar looks like it could just be bent if someone pulled hard enough on the door. Are you able to get stronger t-handle locks or perhaps another solution to help prevent someone breaking into my shed?
Any pictures or help on how you guys have secured your sheds would be appreciated. Cheers.
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3rd April 2012, 11:33 PM #2.
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- Feb 2006
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Nothing will really stop a determined thief so practical security is mainly about about reducing the opportunities for the oportunistic thief. This means looking like you have a great honking lock on a door so when they look over your fence they think quickly about moving on. Of course it also helps if it is a great honking lock. This is the first thing I put on my shed.
My other door is the back access door. It has no external locks and two internal dead bolts.
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3rd April 2012, 11:46 PM #3
Re: Shed security - improve on standard locks
Originally Posted by BobLCheers
DJ
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4th April 2012, 10:55 AM #4
Go and see your local locksmith. There are a lot of solutions out there now, but the best ones are known only to those in the industry (ie locksmiths) and not available through the usual hardware chains (ie the big green buildings).
Your local locksmith will be able to sell (and fit if necessary) solutions for these situations.
TN.
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4th April 2012, 12:45 PM #5Member
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- Dec 2009
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- WA
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- 78
As Bob has posted, your best deterrent is probably a hasp/staple/throwbolt with a dirty big padlock.
If the shed has power also definitely a motion sensitive spotlight that also sets off a light you can notice at all times.
As mentioned, as the end of the day (if the shed is not fully lined insude) all they really need is a tek gun to take off your sheets to get in. Anything valuable in side the shed should have a second line of defense.
That said, what you are trying to do is to make your shed more difficult to get into than the average shed. That is usually enough to deter most people to moving onto the next yard.
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4th April 2012, 06:31 PM #6Member
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- Toowoomba and Online at www.shedblog.com.au
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These are good for roller doors.
Roller Door Security Locks | Steel Sheds in AustraliaSteel Sheds in Australia Helpful information for people looking to buy, build, extend or renovate a steel shed. www.shedblog.com.au
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4th April 2012, 07:52 PM #7
At a place I worked at some time ago we were confronted by the bent roller door.
To stop it happening again we drilled a hole through the wall bracket through the door and into the brick work, at the end of the day we would put 10mm rod through the holes and stop it getting lifted.
Also fitted a hinge like in the previous post in the middle of the door so no way of levering the middle. No more entries.Jim Carroll
One Good Turn Deserves Another. CWS, Vicmarc, Robert Sorby, Woodcut, Tormek, Woodfast
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4th April 2012, 08:20 PM #8.
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One solution I have seen for a large roller door was a length of 50 x 50 x 2.5 SHS that was attached to and ran the full length of the bottom lip of the roller door. A set of 4 threaded recessed anchor sockets in the floor matched holes in the SHS. To stop grit from falling into the sockets, short bolts were screwed into the sockets. To lock the door, longer bolts were run thru the SHS into the floor sockets. A slow but relatively secure method.
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5th April 2012, 12:56 AM #9GOLD MEMBER
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- Oct 2003
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- Sydney,Australia
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- 3,157
Basics: reinforce the inside of all security fasteners with a minimum of 3mm mild steel strip to stop 'them' just jemmying the bolts straight through the thin sheet cladding. Paint the strip to stop it corroding the cladding, and try to make the strip so it is as long as possible - more contact the better.
Replace the inside lock tongue with a similar length of thick, hardened steel - you can probably pick up 50x300mm lengths of tool steel from places like Blackwoods, then cut, drill, trial fit, harden & temper. Even un-heat treated they will be stronger than the flimsy supplied - using the mild steel strip mentioned above is not enough.
Fit an external lock/bolt as pictured above, again, reinforce it inside as well. Get a good padlock with a short hardened shackle - the disk shaped locks where the shackle runs around the inside of the case are good. If you have a metal worker on tap, a shroud of pipe fixed to the shed/door and surrounding the padlock is also a good investment. Make sure you don't loose the spare keys as its a lot of demolition work to remove the lock if you do
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