Thread: Shed Shelving and Timber Racks

Hi Graeme. I can't answer your questions of specifications, but I have a similar rack to the one in your photo. Mine was supplied by my Godson from Mt Macedon and he used 1.2m spacing which works well for me. I cut and store my lengths at 3 metres and haven't had any "drooping". I do, however, use heavy lengths as support for anything like 42X19 (ie, store thin lengths on top of timber around 90X45 +)IMG_1171.JPG The unit is anchored in the floor by 19mm dynabolts.

I ended up going with pallet racking - which I managed to pick up at a good rate as a book warehouse was closing down. The pallet racking (with a ply shelf) has the advantage of being able to store timber with full length support, as well as anything else as it is just general deep shelving. In one section I have a mitre saw set up (and a couch temporarily stored in another). Its free standing so no issues with having to bolt it down. Depending on the end bay web bracing it is possible to store longer timber between two bays if needed, but not as easy to get out as a rack system.

I would be happy to go with the pallet racking again, but I cant see why it would need to be replaced

Originally Posted by Crunchie

Hi Graeme. I can't answer your questions of specifications, but I have a similar rack to the one in your photo. Mine was supplied by my Godson from Mt Macedon and he used 1.2m spacing which works well for me. I cut and store my lengths at 3 metres and haven't had any "drooping". I do, however, use heavy lengths as support for anything like 42X19 (ie, store thin lengths on top of timber around 90X45 +)IMG_1171.JPG The unit is anchored in the floor by 19mm dynabolts.

Thanks Crunchie

So that I can get a handle on the strengths required could you please provide some very specific data on your racks:

• dimensions including thickness of the RHS in your posts and feet,
• Similar dimensions for the arms,
• Length of arms,
• Rated load limit, if known.

I will probably make my own and I want it to be an informed decision, not guess work.

My current thinking is that I will space the arms 1,000 - 1,200 mm apart and just rest large timber across them. In other racks I can lay an MDF shelf for thinner timber and for other treasures. trying to optimise versatility.


Cheers

Graeme

Originally Posted by Sir Stinkalot

I ended up going with pallet racking - which I managed to pick up at a good rate as a book warehouse was closing down. ...

Thanks SS

The art of being in the right place at the right time..... Haven't heard of any wholesalers/large retailers closing lately and new pallett racks are $$$$'s. But I will do some snooping.

In one section I have a mitre saw set up ....

Could you please post a photo of this as a mitre saw is something I would like to incorporate in my shelves/racks.


Cheers

Graeme

Good Morning Everyone

I had a discussion today with a good mate who used to be a metal fabricator and is an extremely gifted woodworker. He suggested that rather than using wood or RHS steel for the racks, that I should use steel angles.

• Posts and feet - 75 x 75 x 6 mm angle steel.
• Arms - 50 x 50 x 5 mm steel angle.
• Bolt arms and feet to posts.
• Dynabolt feet to floor and posts to brick wall.

His basic argument was that steel angle was cheaper than RHS, that it was easier to be accurate with angle steel and that my level of skill at metal fabrication was very relevant.


Fair Winds

Graeme

Have a Great Christmas

Good Morning All

Since my discussion with my mate who recommended using angle syeel for the racks, I have drawn the following scale drawings:

Drawing 1.jpg Drawing 2.jpg

The steel dimensions look massive, but I do not know much about steel fabrication.

The dimensions are as per the above post with the verticals 1,000 mm apart and 350 mm between the arms. If the available space between shelves was 100% full of very heavy timber (density = 1.0) then the maximum static load per arm would be 120 kgs, and the maximum load per posr would be 720 kgs.

• ARM LOADING: 0.3 x 0.4 x 1.0 x 1.0 x 1,000 = 120 kgs
• POST LOADING: 120 x 6 = 720 kgs

In practice I doubt we will load up anywhere near those calculated limits.


Cheers

Graeme

Dredging the memory most of those loads are meaningless.
The critical loads are the joint where the arms join the uprights, and if the uprights are attached to the wall.
after the arm to post joints, the most likely failure mode is buckling -- but I don't remember enough of the calcs to advise you. If the uprights are attached to the walls, the walls will act as huge stiffening members -- but are your walls straight?

For shorter thinner/piece storage consider adding at chest/eye height a set of shorter support arms in between the other arms at this height and if needed lining these with wooden shelving material. This gets the smaller/shorter stuff up out of the mix of the longer thicker stuff reducing the hunting for "where is that bit of X" problem
These shorter arms can be bolted on and hence removed if not needed, but I would really prefer to see the longer arms and feet welded otherwise your are at the mercy of how accurately you can drill the bolt holes to prevent them from drooping. Maybe drilling the bolt holes so the arms end up with a 1-2º upwards tilt on them would be an idea?

Hi Graeme,

This is what I have in my shed, and would do it again in a heartbeat.

For shelving, I've used framing timber in 3 m bays. The cross members are set into notches in the upright and screwed. The actual shelving is yellow tongue ripped in half, giving a depth of a bit over 400 mm. They are STRONG. I've never had cause for concern that anything I wanted to put on them would cause issues.

For timber storage, I have vertical lengths of framing timber with holes drilled at regular intervals at about 5° down angle. I then slide lengths of 20 mm square RHS into the holes for the arms. Repeat every 450 mm or so for a low cost, easily reconfigurable solution. The bits of hose over the pipe ends on the lower heights is to save my head from nasty gouges (hadn't happened yet, but had I not taken that precaution...)

I'm in Margate. you're welcome to pop over and have a look in person if you'd like. Just send me a PM.

Hi Graeme
For my racking I went with 50mm gal fence posts for the uprights. There is a standard flange on the bottom, dynabolted to the floor, and the top is held in place by a standard saddle. The arms are again the 50mm post, around 450 long. They connect to the uprights via the two piece tees. I cannot comment on the load limits other than to say I have had them for 3 or 4 years without an issue. The attached photo is the best I have on hand, as you can probably guess the bird was what I was after but the racking shows in the background across the shed as well as the one on the right along the wall. I don't have the cost but I am sure that it was pretty economical. No correspondence will be entered into regarding the untidy state of my shed

Originally Posted by ian

Dredging the memory most of those loads are meaningless.
The critical loads are the joint where the arms join the uprights, and if the uprights are attached to the wall.
after the arm to post joints, the most likely failure mode is buckling -- but I don't remember enough of the calcs to advise you. If the uprights are attached to the walls, the walls will act as huge stiffening members -- but are your walls straight?

Thanks, Ian

Quite obvious now that you mention it. But I was thinking of the walls solely as backing and supporting elements and was thinking in terms of 2 or 3 bolts into the bricks. The wall is 80 year old double brick and looks to be in sound condition. I did not want to risk hanging the racks from the wall, but .... More dynabolts into the middle of bricks will certainly give a lot of stiffness, and strength.

The walls are sort of straight and sort of vertical. I guess that I will have to make and educated compromise in the placing of the verticals and then pack out the space between them and the bricks.

Cheers

Graeme

Originally Posted by BobL

For shorter thinner/piece storage consider adding at chest/eye height a set of shorter support arms in between the other arms at this height and if needed lining these with wooden shelving material. This gets the smaller/shorter stuff up out of the mix of the longer thicker stuff reducing the hunting for "where is that bit of X" problem
These shorter arms can be bolted on and hence removed if not needed, but I would really prefer to see the longer arms and feet welded otherwise your are at the mercy of how accurately you can drill the bolt holes to prevent them from drooping. Maybe drilling the bolt holes so the arms end up with a 1-2º upwards tilt on them would be an idea?

Hi BobL

The suggestion that I bolt the arms to the posts came from a retired metal fabricator friend. He mentioned that an inch of weld could hold 300 kgs if properly welded. He then went on to make some most insensitive comments about my welding skills - you think a right angle is any joint between 80 and 100 degrees, except when its another number - I am deeply wounded! He then went on that bolting together was more like woodwork, that I could make some jigs to ensure repeated accuracy, and that I was less likely to stuff it up. "But you are a creative buggar...."

But the more I think about it, the more I think welding is the way to go, probably aided by one or more jigs. Repeated accuracy as regards spacing and angles is critical. Arms at 2º is the precision I need!

To facilitate easy access, I am thing in terms of lots of closely spaced shelves/racks - the shelves are simply a piece of particle board over the rack. Perhaps 450 mm deep and 350 mm apart?


Cheers

Graeme

Originally Posted by Xfigio

Hi Graeme,

This is what I have in my shed, and would do it again in a heartbeat.

Hi Xfigio

I think that you need more shelving! I am basically starting afresh so I want something that will outlast me.

For shelving, I've used framing timber in 3 m bays. The cross members are set into notches in the upright and screwed. The actual shelving is yellow tongue ripped in half, giving a depth of a bit over 400 mm. They are STRONG. I've never had cause for concern that anything I wanted to put on them would cause issues.

Your shelves certainly look strong, and I like "over engineering". I hadn't thought of using yellow tongue; it is a better suggestion than MDF, and cheaper. But I want to have the optimal versatility with sheves and racks interchaneable as my needs evolve. For that reason I want to avoid posts in fron of the shelves, if practical. They are just awkward for timber.

For timber storage, I have vertical lengths of framing timber with holes drilled at regular intervals at about 5° down angle. I then slide lengths of 20 mm square RHS into the holes for the arms. Repeat every 450 mm or so for a low cost, easily reconfigurable solution....

Your posts look like 90 x 45 pine framing ? and the holes for the 20 mm square RHS must be 28 mm diameter. That does not seem to leave a lot of timber, but your seems to be working well.

A mate has a similar set up with hard wood verticals and 1 inch water pipe - 1.25" outside diameter? - as the arms. His also works well, and has for at least 15 years.

I will PM you in the new year.


Cheers

Graeme

I'd say that timber studs are perfectly fine but make sure they span from floor to ceiling. This will allow the timber studs to carry all the vertical load, and the dyna bolts are only there to stop the racks and their loads from tipping over. Metal piping fitted into stud seems like an inexpensive solution. other people have made racks out of 20mm plywood bolted to either side of each stud. I would also some space to tie your sheets against the studs so they can stack upright to save space. the span between studs should not be more than 800 to cater for shorter lengths.