Thread: Shed sound insulation progress update

I think you're a little light (pun intended) on the amount of light for your shop. When I researched it 100 foot candles per square foot was recommended. That translated to about 1000 lumens per square metre. My shop is roughly 2 car sized, close to 60 square metres and I have 16 fixtures of 4000 lumens (40 watts) each, so close to triple what you are doing. If you are grouping your lights over the areas that need it most, bench and saw for instance, instead of evenly throughout the shop then you may be okay.

Pete

Originally Posted by igalic

Yeah That's under "electrical", but I haven't thought it through yet. The original garage had 3 light bulbs in the middle of the room, and that was not nearly enough. I'll have to comb the forum for recommendations

Have a look at these ( and their variations).


I have put up 7 (similar Clipsals) in my 7.3x4.8. Each light per 2.5 x 2.5m area (sort of)



40W GermanAEG LED Office T Bar Panel light Troffer 30 60 120 cm free postage

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-40W-...r=590898361598

Originally Posted by QC Inspector

I think you're a little light (pun intended) on the amount of light for your shop. When I researched it 100 foot candles per square foot was recommended. That translated to about 1000 lumens per square metre.

1000 lum/m^2 is only needed for working with drawings and detailed mechanical workshop areas.
In terms of wood perhaps a sanding area. for other work you should be able to get away with 500 lum/m^2

From https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/l...oms-d_708.html
Screen Shot 2018-09-17 at 7.50.08 am.png


My shed general illumination is all T8 LEDs and averages ~800 lum/m^2, but I concentrate the lighting to have ~ 2000 lum/m^2 above the MW lathe, WW lathe, and main assembly workbench, which means other areas have less lighting

Some spaces like my welding bay fume hood and machines have additional LED spotlights, eg MW lathe, DP, Mill, TS and WW bench.

I'm happy with the overkill and I'd do it again in a heartbeat. I've worked in too many dim places to want to do it now that I'm not working anymore. The OP can always add more lights later if the electrical is set up for additional plugs or if the lights allow daisy chaining more to themselves.

Pete

I think I'm long overdue with the update It's now almost done, though there are a few small details left - like fully sealing the door. That's why I still don't have the noise measurements, I'm afraid of testing it out before I finish everything

In my last update, I was talking about the door. That all went well, except with 94mm thickness you need to leave plenty of space in the middle to be able to close them. I made the mistake on the first one, and I'm still shaving them off little by little to be able to properly close them. With the other one I learnt so they turned out ok. This is how that looks like:

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After hanging the door, I went on to seal the joints. First the corners with some expanding foam:

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Then the rest of the joints. For walls I used the fiberglass mesh and drywall base coat, but for the ceiling I got lazy and just used acrylic sealant. That cost me already, because those joints have already cracked. That's what you get for being lazy:

IMG_20180916_161657.jpgIMG_20180916_161659.jpgIMG_20180916_161707.jpg



Even after sealing, the corners had too big gaps. Instead of buying cornices, I made my own out of mdf. Just cut it in narrow strips, then screwed them in and finally sealed again:

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Next up was painting. I was hoping to use the spray gun but I couldn't get the wall paint to go through it. I had no idea what I was doing so I just gave up and went with the roller. For paint, I first used 2x10L of the paint from ALDI that they had on special. I miscalculated, as I do, how much I'd need for two coats so then I bought the second batch from Bunnings, again the cheapest, "Spring" colour, the one in purple can. I was actually really happy with that paint. Took me a couple of days to paint it all, two coats, but in the end it looks decent. I'm not trying to make a room out of this, so I didn't go with a third coat (just as I didn't do the top coat of drywall paste nor sanding of the walls). The last photo is after second coat:

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Finally, it was time for electrics. I took your advice here and put in a lot more light than I originally planned. It now has 11x36W LEDs, each at 3400LM. It's hard to tell from the photos, but it's really super bright in there now. It really is almost like daylight. Really happy to have done that, especially considering I only paid $100 for those lights. In terms of power, I stuck to my original plan, really can't see myself getting many bigger machines. I already don't have enough space as it is So there are now 6 double 10A outlets on two different circuits, and 2x15A outlets, one on each circuit. Lights are on their own circuit too. We put the cables on the walls using clips to make them easier to move if needed:

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Finally, one pano shot of everything:

PANO_20181014_192821.jpg



I forgot to take photos of installing the door lever, but basically after calling several locksmiths and lock shops and being quoted several hundred dollars for each door, I found that for what I need the solution is quite simple. I needed to get a long spindle, and then the basic passage lever from bunnings can easily be set up to use two sets of screws (that both come with it) so that you can fit it onto a very thick door. No issues there, took me half an hour and a bit of drilling and grinding

I'll need to post a few more photos along with sound measurements once I finish it up.

In terms of cost, the approx cost is below. Note that I got the electrics done by a friend's dad so the quote was discounted. There was already a "thick enough" cable running into the garage from the main box (some amount of square mm, can't remember), so he didn't need to run a new one, just replace the RCB on the main box with a bigger one):

Sealants, screws, base coat, etc.: ~$150
Door passage set + long spindle: $35
Hinges: $50
Lights: $100
Paint and supplies: $200
Electrical hardware: $400
Electrician's labour: $600 (it took him 1 full day)


That's it for now, hope to be back again soon with some measurements, to see if this all had any effect

P.S. The shop cabinetry that's inside there was in total ~$100 from op-shops.

I like what you did with the wiring to the power points. I was reconfiguring some power in the shed today, and your setup would have made it a lot simpler.

Also, where did you source your lights?


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I got the lights from eBay. You can tell they're not the highest quality, the plastic is flimsy and aluminium very thin. But they're cheap enough to replace whenever they die. They don't seem to be heating much.

I just checked and the seller I bought them from just tripled the price... But you can still find very similar ones for about $150/dozen. The first few in this search are the same type:

https://m.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_fr...sacat=0&_pgn=2

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Originally Posted by node105

Have a look at these ( and their variations).


I have put up 7 (similar Clipsals) in my 7.3x4.8. Each light per 2.5 x 2.5m area (sort of)



40W GermanAEG LED Office T Bar Panel light Troffer 30 60 120 cm free postage

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-40W-...r=590898361598

I notice the CRI on these is 80 - this isn't the first time I've noted that about these lights, and this gives me pause, as I would have thought a higher CRI would be useful in a workshop when doing any kind of finishing work or matching timbers?

I'm actually looking for lights myself (I had thought these https://www.bunnings.com.au/philips-...atten_p4371387 would be great, but for the life of me cannot find CRI data for them)

How are you finding these AEG units in terms of colour rendering and accuracy?

maybe be a redundant point but if you taper both doors to the back the gap should be manageable.

Looking “smick“ . What’s the height of the subboard from the floor?

Sorry, what's subboard? Floor to ceiling is from 230cm at the entrance to about 240 at the rear (the garage floor has a slope). It's less than I would have liked, but it would be very hard to make it taller because of the roof construction.

Originally Posted by Lappa

Looking “smick“ . What’s the height of the subboard from the floor?

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On the last panoramic photo, the electrical subboard on the left hand side of the photo near the ceiling - the one with all the cables coming out of it.

Originally Posted by igalic

Sorry, what's subboard?

That would be power panel for the circuit breakers.

It's 200cm from the floor to the bottom of the board.

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