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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Heidelberg, Victoria
    Age
    79
    Posts
    2,251

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    Mav,

    You suggest I thicken up the slab to accommodate a mill and lathe. Both these machines will be in the shed, but I'm not sure where to site them, so that leaves thicken the slab throughout.

    What thickness would you recommend over and above 100mm.

    If say 150mm throughout, would that thickness also suffice for the corner columns. These columns will be L-shaped instead of a full column in 9" brickwork.

    Attached are some Sketch-up 3D's my son did. The new extension is on the LH end. The 3D does not show all the low height retaining walls to the three sides.

    Are there any websites that show building construction details including timber beams and purlin sizes, concrete slabs and footings etc?

    Ken

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Brisbane Australia
    Posts
    33

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    Ken

    Based on a clay type soil which isn't overly expansive you would get away with 175 - 200mm slab - make sure you compact the ground as much as possible before putting down the sand. Also make sure you've got good drainage. Its always a balancing act between strength and cost. On that note I'd recommend F82 mesh as minimum chaired up 100mm off the ground. You need to get tiedown from your slab/footings to your roof beams to hold your roof down. You could use RHS (which also holds the roof up) or threaded rod (as previously suggested) if you can hide it in the brickwork.

    There's likely to be some framing guides in the archives here or try timber.org.au. Before it went national each state had a framing guide which was available for about $20 - 25. Now with copyright they want a fortune. I'd suggest you go to the local library and photocopy the tables that apply to your situation and the spans involved to use as a reference.

    Mav

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