Thread: Tassie 6x5 shed build

Originally Posted by farm_boy

Hi all,
I plan to clad the interior in plywood (probably 7mm) using a brick bond with black shadow lines.

The black shadow lines will probably be dust magnets in a shed. Looks great though.

I lined my shed with 12mm CD F8 ply. I experimented with a sheet of 7mm and decided that the 12mm was worth the extra cost for the increased strength + stiffness. Nice being able to fix anything anywhere without needing to fix into studs.

I'll seal the floor (probably just a concrete sealer)

I used Bondall Garage & Factory Floor Protector on mine, mainly as I was trying to get it down ASAP after slab pour and was running into Christmas / New Year at the time. That was five years ago and it's held up okay, but I wish I'd gone with epoxy just for the nicer finish.

I'll probably go for two 15 amp power points and a few other standard doubles.

With a 16mm feed you'll be able to run pretty much anything you want. My advice would just be to make sure the sparky installs a distribution board with plenty of room for expansion.

Originally Posted by Moph

The black shadow lines will probably be dust magnets in a shed. Looks great though.

I lined my shed with 12mm CD F8 ply. I experimented with a sheet of 7mm and decided that the 12mm was worth the extra cost for the increased strength + stiffness. Nice being able to fix anything anywhere without needing to fix into studs.



I used Bondall Garage & Factory Floor Protector on mine, mainly as I was trying to get it down ASAP after slab pour and was running into Christmas / New Year at the time. That was five years ago and it's held up okay, but I wish I'd gone with epoxy just for the nicer finish.



With a 16mm feed you'll be able to run pretty much anything you want. My advice would just be to make sure the sparky installs a distribution board with plenty of room for expansion.

Thanks for the feedback. So my thinking has evolved as I've received feedback and browsed other shed threads. Here's where i'm up to:

Lining: 12mm ply. Still deciding whether to butt joint or shadow line. I'll use 2700x1200 C/D ($60) for walls and 2400x1200 C+/C for ceiling ($50). For a 6x5 shed that's 14 sheets of 2700 and 10 sheets of 2400. About $1400 all up. I'll need to factor in timber battens to fix to.
Insulation I already have aircell and blanket type wrap specced for the build so i'm thinking maybe and R2.5 or similar. I also gather I don't need an air gap given I already have an condensation barrier. Well that's my reading of the other threads.
Concrete floor: 2 pack epoxy - mid grey.
Lighting: I've heard more is better. So at least 6 sets of LED lights.
Internet: I'm going to run Cat 6 as I don't think wi fi is going to cut it...given that the shed build is turning into a man cave I'll need my Netflix in 4K.
Powerpoints: Cabling will be run in conduit/tray around the shed on top of the ply.
Shelving: Unirack Longspan Garage Shelving
Water: Mains water run to back of shed along with moving my rainwater tanks and routing stormwater to them.

The rest of the site (about 100m2 total) will be used for storage and vegetable garden/fruit trees. I had to do a cut and fill and I moved existing fruit trees into the bank. Given I live next to the bush I have to contend with wildlife so I'll be building an enclosed netted area.

What have I missed? Apart from my planning of the garden tool shed as the soon-to-be-built-shed will be way too nice for my dirty garden tools and ride on mower .

And why didn't anyone tell me that once the journey starts it can get expensive!

Originally Posted by farm_boy

And why didn't anyone tell me that once the journey starts it can get expensive!

"dust extraction". Just got more expensive!

Originally Posted by farm_boy

What have I missed? Apart from my planning of the garden tool shed as the soon-to-be-built-shed will be way too nice for my dirty garden tools and ride on mower .

Is the location suitable and is there enough room in there for a dust extractor?

Battens: Assuming your shed is a standard type with horizontal girts at top, base and mid-height of walls, you'll probably find that steel battens work better than timber. My girt spacing was 1350mm so using 90x35 or even 90x45 on flat would have been fairly flexy and not given enough depth for decent insulation, but using them on edge would have made fixing difficult. I ended up using Topspan 64 steel battens with slightly compressed 75mm Earthwool R2.0HD batts.

Lighting: I have a total of 18x 28W T5 fluoros (9 double troffers) in my 7.5x5.3m shed and it is a really comfortable lighting level for general workshop use. Task lighting will be required above machines and workbench but thus far I've not found myself wishing for more general lighting.

Shelving: If you're using it for general household storage as well, consider finding some quality storage tubs and designing a bay of racking to fit them. We have a 1200W x 600D x 2400H bay dedicated to household storage and it fits 12 large tubs perfectly. You can hide an awesome amount of stuff away in them, there's little wasted space as the shelf heights were tailored to them and the lids keep dust out.

Data: CAT6 is a good idea if you're running stuff out there anyway. I ran an extra conduit w/ draw wire for CAT6 if I want it later ... for the moment I'm using a Velop wifi mesh that gives good coverage (60Mbps) but money spent futureproofing cabling is rarely wasted.

Originally Posted by Moph

Battens: Assuming your shed is a standard type with horizontal girts at top, base and mid-height of walls, you'll probably find that steel battens work better than timber. My girt spacing was 1350mm so using 90x35 or even 90x45 on flat would have been fairly flexy and not given enough depth for decent insulation, but using them on edge would have made fixing difficult. I ended up using Topspan 64 steel battens with slightly compressed 75mm Earthwool R2.0HD batts.

Lighting: I have a total of 18x 28W T5 fluoros (9 double troffers) in my 7.5x5.3m shed and it is a really comfortable lighting level for general workshop use. Task lighting will be required above machines and workbench but thus far I've not found myself wishing for more general lighting.

Shelving: If you're using it for general household storage as well, consider finding some quality storage tubs and designing a bay of racking to fit them. We have a 1200W x 600D x 2400H bay dedicated to household storage and it fits 12 large tubs perfectly. You can hide an awesome amount of stuff away in them, there's little wasted space as the shelf heights were tailored to them and the lids keep dust out.

Data: CAT6 is a good idea if you're running stuff out there anyway. I ran an extra conduit w/ draw wire for CAT6 if I want it later ... for the moment I'm using a Velop wifi mesh that gives good coverage (60Mbps) but money spent futureproofing cabling is rarely wasted.

Battens: I just checked and my girts are at 1275 on the side walls so maybe i should go same solution as you and use steel battens. Thanks.

Lighting: Ok..maybe I need a bit more.

Shelving: Yeah, I'm going to do a full 6m wall of 2.5m high shelving. We plan to use clear plastic tubs for the household stuff.

Originally Posted by BobL

Is the location suitable and is there enough room in there for a dust extractor?

Not sure I'm a serious enough woodworker to justify dust extraction. I have seen some amazing dust extraction set ups on here.

Originally Posted by farm_boy

Not sure I'm a serious enough woodworker to justify dust extraction. I have seen some amazing dust extraction set ups on here.

Anyone spending $17k for a shed - I'd call that serious

When I advise people on setting up DCs in home workshops I usually suggest allowing ~for a nominal 10% of the cost of Buidling and Machinery to go towards dust extraction.

If you are unsure it still doesn't take much to allow for better location of, and extra Room in, the garden shed for a future DC , and couple of exhaust fans at one end of the shed and some vents at the other to help exhaust fine dust

Originally Posted by farm_boy

Thanks for the feedback. So my thinking has evolved as I've received feedback and browsed other shed threads. Here's where i'm up to:

Lining: 12mm ply. Still deciding whether to butt joint or shadow line. I'll use 2700x1200 C/D ($60) for walls and 2400x1200 C+/C for ceiling ($50). For a 6x5 shed that's 14 sheets of 2700 and 10 sheets of 2400. About $1400 all up. I'll need to factor in timber battens to fix to.

Hi Farmboy

Just stumbled on your thread, and wished I had done this when I set up my shed. So many mistakes ...

That plywood option for the walls looks a little expensive. Have you considered Yellow Tongue Flooring?

• 12 mm Plywood @ $60 per 2700x1200 sheet equals $18.52 per m2.
• 19 mm Yellow Tongue @ $45 (Bunnings) per 3600x900 sheet equals $13.89 per m2.

And Yellow Tongue is considerably tougher and stronger than plywood; its load bearing! You can hang almost anything from it. Uptons, Mornington will probably beat Bunnings price, too.

Shelving: Unirack Longspan Garage Shelving

Looks functional and also expensive.

Shop fitters often replace prefectly good shelving and racking, and then sell off second hand stuff cheaply. Try 209 Murray st, Hobart.

Good Luck.



Graeme

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

Hi Farmboy

Just stumbled on your thread, and wished I had done this when I set up my shed. So many mistakes ...

That plywood option for the walls looks a little expensive. Have you considered Yellow Tongue Flooring?

• 12 mm Plywood @ $60 per 2700x1200 sheet equals $18.52 per m2.
• 19 mm Yellow Tongue @ $45 (Bunnings) per 3600x900 sheet equals $13.89 per m2.

And Yellow Tongue is considerably tougher and stronger than plywood; its load bearing! You can hang almost anything from it. Uptons, Mornington will probably beat Bunnings price, too.



Looks functional and also expensive.

Shop fitters often replace prefectly good shelving and racking, and then sell off second hand stuff cheaply. Try 209 Murray st, Hobart.

Good Luck.



Graeme

Hi Graeme,

Thanks for the input! Yeah the prices for ply were a bit more than i expected. The price i quoted was from Uptons...he said i'll get a small discount for buying more than a few sheets so i'm thinking 5% off or so. A couple of reasons i want to go with ply. One is the weight, as I gather yellow tongue is much heavier to handle. But the main reason is aesthetics. It seems that the shed is turning into more of a man cave! The C/D sheet finish was actually pretty good so I think I can get the shed looking pretty schmick.

Thanks also for the tip on shelving. I work in the city so i'll call into the shop you mentioned.

I've been a bit slack due to returning to work so progress has slowed. Hoping to finish laying communications conduit and cat 6 this weekend then get the trench partly filled in. Once i sort a few things with council the shed builder can get underway.

Was that Uptons proper or The Bunker out at Cambridge - I still want to visit The Bunker but never seem to make it apparently I have to go through Cambridge Park first and just nip into here and there and "sorry honey I think its shut"

Originally Posted by notevensquare

Was that Uptons proper or The Bunker out at Cambridge - I still want to visit The Bunker but never seem to make it apparently I have to go through Cambridge Park first and just nip into here and there and "sorry honey I think its shut"

Either, but more stuff at Cambridge. Mornington just ring through and check if they do not have something. Ditto Argyle St.

Originally Posted by farm_boy

....A couple of reasons i want to go with ply. One is the weight, as I gather yellow tongue is much heavier to handle. But the main reason is aesthetics. It seems that the shed is turning into more of a man cave! The C/D sheet finish was actually pretty good so I think I can get the shed looking pretty schmick. ......

Hi Farm Boy

A gentle caution; that was one of the mistakes that I made.

My shed had been renovated shortly before I bought the house. I thought it was schmick:

• two walls are pink primer painted double brick,
• one wall and ceiling are pine VJ coated with clear Estapol,
• other wall is a grey roller door, and
• concrete floor. I assumed floor was flat and level; its neither.

That colour scheme actually looks good, but it is a great light absorber and makes the shed quite dark. I wish that I had painted everything white or another very light colour.

Now I would have to move so much stuff that repainting is a very major task.



Cheers

Graeme

A little bit of progress has been made. I finally put in the comms conduit with 2 lengths of cat 6, then back filled with 7mm aggregate to 300mm and added warning tape. Next job is to get the plumber in to run mains water and stormwater (to the rainwater tank yet to be moved). Then I can close the trench which has been open waaaay too long. I'm now waiting for my planning permission as I had to get retrospective approval for my retaining wall (don't ask).
IMG_0405.jpgIMG_0408.jpgIMG_0504.jpg

I've also managed to score some lights as they were replacing them at work. I've got eight of them so hopefully enough light for 30m2. I just need to get fittings to hang them. They replaced them with some very nice flat panel LEDs. The sparky said they were about $60 a pop which seemed good value. I was planning on using LEDs but i couldn't pass up on the freebies.
IMG_0506.jpg

Cheers...hopefully next photos of a closed trench coming soon.