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  1. #1
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    Default Water runoff slope on concrete - roller door opening

    I've just erected my 6m x 6m shed with a 4.5m rollerdoor.

    One problem I've encountered is the slab edge at the roller door opening has a very slight inward slope (a lip almost) which prevents all water running off. The water eventually gets though the seal and seeps in. Not much but enough to be annoying.

    Is there any way I can put an outward slope on the slab edge so water can run off? Something to build up a slope or maybe take away the lip?

    Attached is a very not to scale drawing but give you an idea.
    Last edited by hayythere; 7th March 2012 at 11:01 PM. Reason: update attatchment

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  3. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by hayythere View Post
    I've just erected my 6m x 6m shed with a 4.5m rollerdoor.

    One problem I've encountered is the slab edge at the roller door opening has a very slight inward slope (a lip almost) which prevents all water running off. The water eventually gets though the seal and seeps in. Not much but enough to be annoying.

    Is there any way I can put an outward slope on the slab edge so water can run off? Something to build up a slope or maybe take away the lip?.
    Sounds like the concretor did a poor job. It looks like a job for a concrete grinder to grind a slope onto the external side.

  4. #3
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    How much room to play with ?
    In other words - What's the distance between slab edge and roller door?

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    It looks like a job for a concrete grinder to grind a slope onto the external side.
    I'm with Bob.
    Steel Sheds in Australia Helpful information for people looking to buy, build, extend or renovate a steel shed. www.shedblog.com.au

  6. #5
    Boringgeoff is offline Try not to be late, but never be early.
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    Hi there hayythere,
    I'm with them as well.

    You can buy an aluminium strip which has a step in it and you put a sealant under it and screw it to the concrete where the roller door lands. That stops the water getting in.
    I think from memory it is a Raven product.

    Regards,
    Geoff.
    Last edited by Boringgeoff; 8th March 2012 at 10:24 AM. Reason: Spelling.

  7. #6
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    [QUOTE=Boringgeoff;1455940 You can buy an aluminium strip which has a step in it and you put a sealant under it and screw it to the concrete where the roller door lands. That stops the water getting in.[/QUOTE]

    This works but longevity will depend upon traffic and use. It is also a PITA if you want to roll machinery in/out of the shed.

  8. #7
    Boringgeoff is offline Try not to be late, but never be early.
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    Hi Hayythere,

    Further to the above, I purchased the ally strip from an outfit in Osborne Park and I think it came from South Aus' I had to wait a week or so for it to arrive.

    Geoff.

  9. #8
    Boringgeoff is offline Try not to be late, but never be early.
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    This works but longevity will depend upon traffic and use. It is also a PITA if you want to roll machinery in/out of the shed.
    Hi Bob, yes you're probably right about rolling machinery in and out, but this is in my car garage so not an issue in that regard.
    My shed at Karratha I had a one inch stepdown at the door to try and stop the wind driven rain coming in and you had to get a real good run up when putting the mig back inside.

    Geoff.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boringgeoff View Post
    My shed at Karratha I had a one inch stepdown at the door to try and stop the wind driven rain coming in and you had to get a real good run up when putting the mig back inside.


    We had a similar weather strips at work between two work areas and to get equipment trolleys with small hard wheels over the strips we made these little ramps which worked OK but I would always forget to bring them with me. In the end we fitted the trolleys with bigger pump up wheels. After a few years the strips did get a bit mangled and had to be replaced.

  11. #10
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    I am thinking of having something not in the way so I can roll things in and out, or sweep out the shed easier.

    I'm thinking about doing the grinding option. It's actually not too much and I think a belt sander might work which I have already. I will give it a go this weekend. Cheers for everyones ideas.

  12. #11
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    Grinder. A belt sander will need more than a weekend, and a whole lot of belts. Belts alone could cost more than a new grinder.

    Cheers,
    Joe
    Of course truth is stranger than fiction.
    Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain

  13. #12
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    Considering you need to cut a whole set down you will need a concrete cutting disc and a concrete grinding disc to finish it.

    We normally put a set down in the slab when we pour them.

  14. #13
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    Default Nrb

    Get a Pro in shouldn't take long and will save you wrecking your own tools plus you will get the exact andle you need

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by hayythere View Post
    I am thinking of having something not in the way so I can roll things in and out, or sweep out the shed easier.

    I'm thinking about doing the grinding option. It's actually not too much and I think a belt sander might work which I have already. I will give it a go this weekend. Cheers for everyones ideas.
    If you have an angle grinder, 7 would do 9 would be better, you can get masonary grinding discs. If the door seal holds out the water for a while then I'd pick 3 or 4 points across the width of the door and chamfer them down.
    Wear a dust-mask and dampen the area to be ground to keep the dust down to a minimum. I use a spray bottle rather than a hose.

  16. #15
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    Anglegrind a groove about 4mm deep along the front edge of door. Then grooves running from this cut to the outside edge of slab at about 200mm spacings. Make sure the short cuts are deeper at the outside edge to give run off (say about 10mm.) If water still comes in you may need to increase the number of short cuts to 100mm spacing. Normally 200mm is enough. Use a straight edge as a guide for the long cut at the door and keep the short outer cuts square to the long cut and it will all look like it was meant to be.
    Hope this helps.

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