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Thread: Wood storage shed
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10th October 2016, 08:43 PM #31
Good idea Chris, but for this shed rough enough will do (got no bricks to speak of).
Crowie, all up that is nine days work from when shovel first hit soil, so I'm pretty happy with that, given that the only help at all has been 10 minutes from a neighbour while he happened to be here on Saturday (rafter placement).
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10th October 2016, 08:45 PM #32
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10th October 2016, 08:49 PM #33
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11th October 2016, 02:37 AM #34
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11th October 2016, 06:24 AM #35
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11th October 2016, 07:31 AM #36
All the posts have to run the same way to facilitate being able to slide shelving in (gaps between the posts are 910-920 to accommodate yellow tongue shelves where I want them). I figured that it would be best to have them running downhill too, and the other thing is that having them this way allowed me to get an extra 180mm width on the roof for extra eave width - the rafter lengths were governed by the shortest available rafter which was 3500, and that allows for an eave of 250 on the southern side and 350 on the northern side (which is the predominant direction that rain comes from (NW).
Surely the metal walls and roof will operate in the same way as ply bracing?
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11th October 2016, 07:45 AM #37Member
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11th October 2016, 08:03 AM #38
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11th October 2016, 08:21 AM #39
AND I managed to find it instantly! Remarkable.
2 lengths of ~3m and 4 lengths of ~4m. As I recall it was held down with roofing bolts on the old shed. Do they need to be that substantial or would 10g 44mm screws be sufficient (countersink head)? I do have plenty of roofing bolts (box of 1000 new, and hundreds of used ones) but I'm just thinking about them sticking up by the 6mm hex head and therefore raising the metal cladding (although I doubt that would matter much at all).
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11th October 2016, 10:29 AM #40GOLD MEMBER
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How much ventilation are you putting into this Brett? Metal sheds retain moisture unless the air is changed over and leaving the ground open and not covered and having timber in there that has a water content you will need fans or a system of some type to move air. When it rains, or likely bloody snows knowing Katoomba the ground moisture is going to rise considerably in fact you may not even be able to control it at all. At the least I would have a raised slatted floor with a system to draw air from bottom to top but others may think that is overkill.
CHRIS
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11th October 2016, 10:38 AM #41
There's no closing door Chris so the entry of 2.4 x 900 will be permanently open. If moisture becomes a problem then I may have to put a whirly bird or two in.
I've been considering putting some black plastic down too.
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11th October 2016, 11:33 AM #42
I bought an extra 30m roll of strapping so I can do the roof and add more to the sides.
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11th October 2016, 07:31 PM #43
I often use 2.8mm x 30mm conector nails for bracing
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
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11th October 2016, 08:54 PM #44
Ok sounds like 10g 44mm screws will be fine then. Because the posts are showing the 90mm face to the bracing (on the long sides of the shed) I can put 2-3 screws per post in. At this point I've only used the six strips that were under the house, and will start using the 30m roll once now that I have put in more of the shelf supports.
Will brace the roof as well after I have finished the timber work there.
I was a little off my game this morning, what with a couple of trips to the hardware and some other incidentals. Came good by lunchtime, and got the shelf supports on the northern wall in, last perimeter post (on disc pad), the last 3 rafters, put the rest of the screws in the rafters, and the southern rafter beam. I'll need help from Heinz (2 doors down) to get the northern rafter beam in tomorrow.
I had planned to run 3 full length 70x35 purlins (which I already have) for the steel roof but they are actually not necessary as the metal sheet ridges run perpendicular to the rafters. However, after a call from Chris Parks re snow loading (perhaps one good 4" dump per year) I'll still add purlins, and will need some anyway between the last two rafters on each end to accommodate the steel roof overhang at the short ends of the shed (with another beam across the end of them).
Will also add a bottom plate to support the rafters in case of snow. This part will be a little bit tricky because the rafters vary considerably in height (some are 130, some are 160 or more - some are tapered too - that's recycled timber for you). That means these bottom plates can't be one full length, so I'll probably use some of the shorter pieces of 4x2 hardwood for this task. In fact, I can't see why a short hardwood block (say 250mm long) running vertically up the post to meet the rafter for support won't be just as good (given that the posts are oriented the way the are). Put three bugle heads screws (which are around 7mm in dia) into the blocks. Any comments on this technique please?
As luck would have it the delivery lead time from the hardware was short, and I already have the 150x25 H4 skirting boards, so I can cut them in tomorrow. This is good because it will allow me to finish the floor levelling which means I can proceed with the posts on pads for the interior of the shed - which means I can then finish the shelf supports, and then get the noggings in between them. The noggings and the strap bracing should make the whole thing lack any movement whatsoever - that's the plan anyway!
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11th October 2016, 09:51 PM #45GOLD MEMBER
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Run a plate under the rafters and cut packers in to suit the differences you strike, that ties the top of the Vertical framing together for added strength.
CHRIS
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