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Thread: New workshop build. Any tips?
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2nd September 2020, 10:00 AM #16GOLD MEMBER
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My advice- build one at least twice as big as you think you need.
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2nd September 2020, 04:48 PM #17GOLD MEMBER
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Make sure all electrical wiring is accessible and not behind internal lining. There ought to be a sticky on building sheds.
CHRIS
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18th September 2020, 02:40 PM #18Member
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Well shed is at lock up stage, now about to start fit out, lining, and electrical.
A few questions...
1. Regarding putting everything on casters. I read somewhere that the table saw shouldn't ever be on casters, because its the one machine that if it moves whilst you are ripping a board, could end in tears. What do you reckon? Is it really that critical? Given the small size (5x6m) of my shed I'm inclined to put it on wheels.
2. I've purchased a 2HP dust extractor, but it will be my first time owning one of these. I'm planning to have the dust collector box out side the building...is there anything much to consider about the actual dust extractor blower unit? I figure I might mount it on the wall or higher up near the ceiling, to free up more floor space. Sound good?
3. Power points. I'm planning to line the shed with fibro, so the dust has less places to settle. Its been suggested power points and wiring should remain on the outside of the cladding (not inside the wall), which I can see will make it easier to avoid accidentally puncturing a wire when screwing into the wall, and also easier to add more power points later. If I do this though, I'm gonna wind up with a lot of conduit running across the walls...won't these be a bit of a pain when putting in cabinets etc? Are there any other reasons to have it external? I'm temped just to conceal it in the wall...
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18th September 2020, 04:55 PM #19.
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I dislike wheels on any machine because that means connecting and disconnecting DC flexy/ducting. However, most of us are pressed for space so I also have some Machines on wheels (Planer thickener, Bandsaw, and just today a SCMS). The bandsaw does however hardly ever get moved but teh thicknesser and the the SCMS definitely get moved. Mobile machines can be made stable using a variety of systems including stabilisers that make good contact with the floor. These can be just as stable as non wheeled machines.
2. I've purchased a 2HP dust extractor, but it will be my first time owning one of these. I'm planning to have the dust collector box out side the building...is there anything much to consider about the actual dust extractor blower unit? I figure I might mount it on the wall or higher up near the ceiling, to free up more floor space. Sound good?
3. Power points. I'm planning to line the shed with fibro, so the dust has less places to settle. Its been suggested power points and wiring should remain on the outside of the cladding (not inside the wall), which I can see will make it easier to avoid accidentally puncturing a wire when screwing into the wall, and also easier to add more power points later. If I do this though, I'm gonna wind up with a lot of conduit running across the walls...won't these be a bit of a pain when putting in cabinets etc? Are there any other reasons to have it external? I'm temped just to conceal it in the wall...
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19th September 2020, 01:51 AM #20GOLD MEMBER
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The table saw like any machine can be on castors as long as you have a way to lift the wheels off the floor and allow the machine to sit on its own base or pads that drop and lift the machine so the wheels don't contact. There are lots of plans out there to do both and hardware made to do it too.
Some examples.
Top of the heap is the SawStop base. Foot operated hydraulic jack lowers the wheels, lifting the saw. If you can fabricate metal you could make one. Shop Tools and Machinery at Grizzly.com
You can attach these to a saw. Robot Check
Or use a floor lock to stop the saw from moving. Floor Locks | Caster Connection
Search mobile bases woodworking machines, floor locks etc for stuff local to you.
Pete
Just saw this on another forum. I think the same could be made in wood if metal isn't your thing. ? DiResta BandSaw Stand - YouTube
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19th September 2020, 09:06 AM #21.
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19th September 2020, 11:08 AM #22GOLD MEMBER
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Agreed Bob but it wouldn't take a lot to put wider pads on it.
Pete
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21st September 2020, 01:33 PM #23Senior Member
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I have also made wheel attachments for most of my large machines to optimise the space in my 7.2x6m shed. I also put in a mezzanine floor and a swing hoist.
I use a two wheel dolly to jack up the machines for the occasional move and they do permanently rest on the rear wheels with pads at the front. I have been using my slider saw this way for a few years now without any issues.
Cheers,
Paintman
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21st September 2020, 03:25 PM #24
I am not a great fan of fibro in sheds as it is so fragile and unforgiving.
Have you considered using yellow tongue flooring to line your shed walls.? It is so tough and strong - you can hang anything off it so it maximises the future versatility of your shed.
And it is probably cheaper than fibro, as per Bunnings prices today:
- Fibro - 6mm hardieflex, 2400x1200 sheets, $60.03 equivalent to $20.85 per m2.
- Flooring - 19mm yellow tongue, 3600x800 sheets, $45 which is equivalent to $15.63 per m2.
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21st September 2020, 03:33 PM #25.
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21st September 2020, 05:49 PM #26Senior Member
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Seconded for using something stronger than fibro, but not that yellowtongue (particleboard) would be my choice. You can often pick up plywood for not too much more than the yellowtongue price
eg: $45 for 2420x1220 (slightly more area than 3600x800)
Plywood Pine CC 18mm | Building Materials | Gumtree Australia Maribyrnong Area - Braybrook | 1247816625
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22nd September 2020, 08:50 AM #27
Two things I will mention here from experience (we undid lining in a shed when we bought our new place that had been installed by the previous owner)
(1) Before you line your shed, check to see if you get condensation on the metal walls overnight/morning. If you do, and you line the shed with fibro/flooring/plywood, you may get mould forming behind there as the condensation now may have no way to escape/evaporate.
(2) If you don't have vermin sealing on the shed, and small bugs can make their way inside, - lining the walls may provide nice places for them to nest and hide.
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22nd September 2020, 12:46 PM #28
We'll agree to disagree on this one.
Because of the T&G yellowtongue interlocks on the wall and looks much nicer than plywood "tiles". And it is far more durable. You get micro delaminations after a few years as you move the fasteners in plywood.
While technically a "chipboard" yellowtongue has a quite high bonding chemicals percentage. Just put some ordinary chipboard on the floor if you doubt my words.
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22nd September 2020, 02:36 PM #29GOLD MEMBER
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Despite the lack of splines to interlock panels, the plywood has an advantage of being a more substrate for screws and for hanging shelves and cabinets. May be you can use biscuits to lock the panels together?
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22nd September 2020, 09:29 PM #30GOLD MEMBER
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You can buy plywood with a tongue and groove all round
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