Thread: New workshop build. Any tips?

Make sure all electrical wiring is accessible and not behind internal lining. There ought to be a sticky on building sheds.

Well shed is at lock up stage, now about to start fit out, lining, and electrical.

A few questions...

1. Regarding putting everything on casters. I read somewhere that the table saw shouldn't ever be on casters, because its the one machine that if it moves whilst you are ripping a board, could end in tears. What do you reckon? Is it really that critical? Given the small size (5x6m) of my shed I'm inclined to put it on wheels.

2. I've purchased a 2HP dust extractor, but it will be my first time owning one of these. I'm planning to have the dust collector box out side the building...is there anything much to consider about the actual dust extractor blower unit? I figure I might mount it on the wall or higher up near the ceiling, to free up more floor space. Sound good?

3. Power points. I'm planning to line the shed with fibro, so the dust has less places to settle. Its been suggested power points and wiring should remain on the outside of the cladding (not inside the wall), which I can see will make it easier to avoid accidentally puncturing a wire when screwing into the wall, and also easier to add more power points later. If I do this though, I'm gonna wind up with a lot of conduit running across the walls...won't these be a bit of a pain when putting in cabinets etc? Are there any other reasons to have it external? I'm temped just to conceal it in the wall...

Originally Posted by grapeseed

1. Regarding putting everything on casters. I read somewhere that the table saw shouldn't ever be on casters, because its the one machine that if it moves whilst you are ripping a board, could end in tears. What do you reckon? Is it really that critical? Given the small size (5x6m) of my shed I'm inclined to put it on wheels.

I dislike wheels on any machine because that means connecting and disconnecting DC flexy/ducting. However, most of us are pressed for space so I also have some Machines on wheels (Planer thickener, Bandsaw, and just today a SCMS). The bandsaw does however hardly ever get moved but teh thicknesser and the the SCMS definitely get moved. Mobile machines can be made stable using a variety of systems including stabilisers that make good contact with the floor. These can be just as stable as non wheeled machines.

2. I've purchased a 2HP dust extractor, but it will be my first time owning one of these. I'm planning to have the dust collector box out side the building...is there anything much to consider about the actual dust extractor blower unit? I figure I might mount it on the wall or higher up near the ceiling, to free up more floor space. Sound good?

Read the sticky in the dust forum on improving the spec of the generic 2HP DC - lots of other useful info there as well. Especially the FAQ on ducting.

3. Power points. I'm planning to line the shed with fibro, so the dust has less places to settle. Its been suggested power points and wiring should remain on the outside of the cladding (not inside the wall), which I can see will make it easier to avoid accidentally puncturing a wire when screwing into the wall, and also easier to add more power points later. If I do this though, I'm gonna wind up with a lot of conduit running across the walls...won't these be a bit of a pain when putting in cabinets etc? Are there any other reasons to have it external? I'm temped just to conceal it in the wall...

Even though I don't have it myself I'm a fan of external conduit. However I would not run it around the middle of the walls but at about 2m above the ground and put drop downs where GPOs are needed. That way the conduit is above the cabinets, I'm also a big fan of OH powerpoints especially if you uses central island benches, and I have more than a dozen of them in my shed.

Originally Posted by grapeseed

1. Regarding putting everything on casters. I read somewhere that the table saw shouldn't ever be on casters, because its the one machine that if it moves whilst you are ripping a board, could end in tears. What do you reckon? Is it really that critical? Given the small size (5x6m) of my shed I'm inclined to put it on wheels.

The table saw like any machine can be on castors as long as you have a way to lift the wheels off the floor and allow the machine to sit on its own base or pads that drop and lift the machine so the wheels don't contact. There are lots of plans out there to do both and hardware made to do it too.

Some examples.

Top of the heap is the SawStop base. Foot operated hydraulic jack lowers the wheels, lifting the saw. If you can fabricate metal you could make one. Shop Tools and Machinery at Grizzly.com

You can attach these to a saw. Robot Check

Or use a floor lock to stop the saw from moving. Floor Locks | Caster Connection

Search mobile bases woodworking machines, floor locks etc for stuff local to you.

Pete

Just saw this on another forum. I think the same could be made in wood if metal isn't your thing. ? DiResta BandSaw Stand - YouTube

Originally Posted by QC Inspector

Just saw this on another forum. I think the same could be made in wood if metal isn't your thing. ? DiResta BandSaw Stand - YouTube

The Diresta design needs a mod as in its current form it can chip the hell out of a concrete floor especially on a heavy machine.

Agreed Bob but it wouldn't take a lot to put wider pads on it.

Pete

I have also made wheel attachments for most of my large machines to optimise the space in my 7.2x6m shed. I also put in a mezzanine floor and a swing hoist.
I use a two wheel dolly to jack up the machines for the occasional move and they do permanently rest on the rear wheels with pads at the front. I have been using my slider saw this way for a few years now without any issues.
Cheers,
Paintman

Originally Posted by grapeseed

Well shed is at lock up stage, now about to start fit out, lining, and electrical.

A few questions...
....
3. Power points. I'm planning to line the shed with fibro, so the dust has less places to settle.
...

I am not a great fan of fibro in sheds as it is so fragile and unforgiving.

Have you considered using yellow tongue flooring to line your shed walls.? It is so tough and strong - you can hang anything off it so it maximises the future versatility of your shed.

And it is probably cheaper than fibro, as per Bunnings prices today:

1. Fibro - 6mm hardieflex, 2400x1200 sheets, $60.03 equivalent to $20.85 per m2.
2. Flooring - 19mm yellow tongue, 3600x800 sheets, $45 which is equivalent to $15.63 per m2.

Originally Posted by QC Inspector

Agreed Bob but it wouldn't take a lot to put wider pads on it.

Pete

Instead of a hard/fixed pad I'd use an additional flat swivel pad. The flat pad would have a pivot attached between it at the existing leg. That way the flat pad would come down and sit firmly on the floor and the machine would pivot over it.

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

I am not a great fan of fibro in sheds as it is so fragile and unforgiving.

Have you considered using yellow tongue flooring to line your shed walls.? It is so tough and strong - you can hang anything off it so it maximises the future versatility of your shed.

And it is probably cheaper than fibro, as per Bunnings prices today:

1. Fibro - 6mm hardieflex, 2400x1200 sheets, $60.03 equivalent to $20.85 per m2.
2. Flooring - 19mm yellow tongue, 3600x800 sheets, $45 which is equivalent to $15.63 per m2.

Seconded for using something stronger than fibro, but not that yellowtongue (particleboard) would be my choice. You can often pick up plywood for not too much more than the yellowtongue price
eg: $45 for 2420x1220 (slightly more area than 3600x800)
Plywood Pine CC 18mm | Building Materials | Gumtree Australia Maribyrnong Area - Braybrook | 1247816625

Two things I will mention here from experience (we undid lining in a shed when we bought our new place that had been installed by the previous owner)

(1) Before you line your shed, check to see if you get condensation on the metal walls overnight/morning. If you do, and you line the shed with fibro/flooring/plywood, you may get mould forming behind there as the condensation now may have no way to escape/evaporate.

(2) If you don't have vermin sealing on the shed, and small bugs can make their way inside, - lining the walls may provide nice places for them to nest and hide.

Originally Posted by lyricnz

Seconded for using something stronger than fibro, but not that yellowtongue (particleboard) would be my choice. You can often pick up plywood for not too much more than the yellowtongue price
eg: $45 for 2420x1220 (slightly more area than 3600x800)
Plywood Pine CC 18mm | Building Materials | Gumtree Australia Maribyrnong Area - Braybrook | 1247816625

We'll agree to disagree on this one.

Because of the T&G yellowtongue interlocks on the wall and looks much nicer than plywood "tiles". And it is far more durable. You get micro delaminations after a few years as you move the fasteners in plywood.

While technically a "chipboard" yellowtongue has a quite high bonding chemicals percentage. Just put some ordinary chipboard on the floor if you doubt my words.

Despite the lack of splines to interlock panels, the plywood has an advantage of being a more substrate for screws and for hanging shelves and cabinets. May be you can use biscuits to lock the panels together?

You can buy plywood with a tongue and groove all round