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18th March 2013, 01:11 PM #1
New worksop floor required....some ideas and comments if you would please
The time has come to replace my workshop floor. I'll be embarking on a 2 metre hardwood bench build, and a thicky/jointer is hopefully not too far away, so I'll need a stronger floor than current, and there are some other nasty patches like in the first pic) that need doing properly.
The sub-floor "joists" are all old fence posts layed onto the existing dirt floor, which is some kind of "stuff" that was already there. Near as i can tell there was a forge or similar for blacksmithing (there is some brickwork that sure looks like it). The "stuff" packs down quite well, and the hardwood structure for the "joists" is a bit of a maze, as at the time I was using whatever materials I could find around the property.
The floor itself is a complete mish-mash of different materials, but the bulk of it is MDF sheets. I have become very fond of MDF as a floor because it makes sliding things around very easy, and is really easy to sweep/vacuum due to a lack of joins/cracks. There has been a bit of swelling, but not too bad (can't remember if I layed down Builder's Plastic or not under the MDF).
So, what I have in mind is to sure up the joists by filling the voids with concrete to a little below the top of them (i.e. the underside of the floor).
For the new floor I'm thinking to have a layer of cement sheeting (not sure of the thicknesses available yet, but around 15-20mm), and then screw down new MDF sheets over that. I would put a layer of Builder's Plastic on both sides of the cement sheeting to avoid or minimise moisture getting to the MDF.
The three heavy items will be:
- the bench (250-300kgs?), spread over four legs is roughly the equivalent of a slim chap standing on the ball of one foot, four times over
- The Thicky/jointer (300 kgs)
- Bandsaw 14" (160 kgs)
So, what are your thoughts please?
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18th March 2013, 01:50 PM #2
Bret have you considered ripping it all up and laying concrete or new floor totally? What a lift it would give to the place
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18th March 2013, 02:09 PM #3
A couple of years ago I considered that Ray, but it would substantially more expensive and somewhat difficult to achieve with a barn full of stuff that would all have to come out at once. I would prefer to work with what I have the beginnings of already if I can
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18th March 2013, 02:23 PM #4
Another GtG could resolve that in a day
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18th March 2013, 02:28 PM #5
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18th March 2013, 02:30 PM #6
Yairrss, well that thought had seen some oxygen.....
In fact, the day before the last one I was looking forward seeing to no less than 50 competent forearms - all at my place at the same time.....
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18th March 2013, 02:46 PM #7
rw, the thing is that I'm not sure how long I'll be here for (rental property).
Perhaps with void filling concrete, cement sheet and then MDF it's a bit of overkill - the bench/thicky aren't that heavy.
Maybe just a single sheet of thicker MDF (25 or 32mm)with plastic under it, and forget the concrete/cement?
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18th March 2013, 03:27 PM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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What about moving everything to one side and laying down a sheet or two yellow tongue flooring right over the existing mdf etc (maybe similar width strips of plastic first), then put all your stuff on top of those sheets and lay the rest ? Saves moving everything out.
Flooring chipboard is good because it comes in long lengths, is fairly cheap and the tongue & groove should provide a smooth transition over the joints. I think there's commerical grade chip board flooring around 32mm thick that would support your bench well. People often apply a finish to it and say it looks like a cork floor.
Maybe we need more shots of your shed to decide *cough sticky beak cough*
Sam
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18th March 2013, 04:44 PM #9
Plenty of shots of Brett's shed in other posts. this one for starters https://www.woodworkforums.com/f200/s...chappy-157779/
I agree with Sam, in a rental, rip up the old flooring and replace it with yellow tongue. Cheap, strong and should last till you move out. If you are worried about it supporting the machines, do two layers. I'm not sure about plastic directly under the flooring as that would retain moisture against the floor. You may be better off leaving it out but we need advice from someone who actually knows what they're talking aboutThose were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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18th March 2013, 04:54 PM #10
Brett, Brett, Brett,
You had the perfect opportunity......
My recommendation would be to lay down the plastic sheet straight on top of what is there then yellow tongue on top of that. As you say you are renting so to go to a lot of trouble and expense is counter productive. May be run a straight edge over the floor to see just how flat it is first. You could always check to see how level it is but it seemed OK when we were there but the straight edge would give you an idea where to pack. (May only need 3mm MDF here and there. They can sometimes be got from the timber supplier as packing sheets)
By doing it that way you will have sufficient support for what ever you get up to in your studio/shed.
Alternatively we could have a whip around for you and see how much can be raised for a new but transportable shed that will go to where ever your next address is.
Key thoughts.... conserve $$$ and conserve effort.
(Different strategy when its on your own place)Just do it!
Kind regards Rod
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18th March 2013, 06:40 PM #11
Thank you all for your replies chaps.
The idea of laying another bunch of sheets onto existing is pretty appealing actually. I've just checked a couple of spots where I know damn well there are variations. Rod, you were suggesting 3mm MDF packing. Don't make me laugh - there is a 10mm drop within 700m in front of the main bench
Of course, I can pack it all up to get it fairly uniform. Just might need something a little thicker than 3mm, and step it up with not to large a space between the steps (so that the new layer has enough support.
For checking larger lengths of flatness, how do you reckon one of these would go, remembering that it's only a floor. Cheap enough, and after all, it is what's used for concreting (assuming pretty flat).
Tony, I think I would be inclined to lay down plastic sheets because if moisture can get underneath the top layer then surely that little bit can get back out the way it came?
Sam, with the yellow tongue flooring, how does it go for abrasion as I slide things around on it? Just thinking about it doing the usual chipboard thing of falling apart if I look at it crossly.
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18th March 2013, 07:27 PM #12SENIOR MEMBER
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Brett, the green tongue (cheaper than yellow tongue) I have in my garden shed has been down about two years and so far so good. It's appears to be either more tightly packed or higher grade than run of the mill chipboard. The gouge factor will be similar to the mdf you already have.
Do I need to declare I have no affiliation with any color tongue flooring company although I'm open to offers.......
Sam
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18th March 2013, 07:52 PM #13
Brett
As this is a rental property I would just consider the yellow tongue option right over the top of existing flooring and once it get scuffed up replace it.
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18th March 2013, 09:05 PM #14
Being a rental property, the option is yellow tongue flooring straight over the top.
Have a look at this Demtech Australia | Floor Leveller (SG40 / HT50)
Level the floor, then put your sheet flooring down and seal with a good resin coatingThe person who never made a mistake never made anything
Cheers
Ray
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18th March 2013, 09:08 PM #15
Ah Brett, the 3mm can be .....stacked to get to the necessary height. Straight edge.....you only need a piece of say 75 X 25 timber that could be "nearly straight" .
remember key thoughts....conserve $$$ conserve
effort.
I would identify the low areas and then, only roughly, cut appropriate shapes from the 3mm until you get to reasonably level. Remember the 22mm yellow tongue wil easily span some hollows. The surface is highly compacted and the glue they use has a guarantee of being able to stand the elements for 3 months. Think you will be happy with the way the yellow tongue performs.Just do it!
Kind regards Rod
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