The novelty wares of after a couple of months of rain every day:~ and after 6+ months it just drives you to the drink well thats my excuse any way:U:q:U
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I initially did this when I put my shed up the first time but when I pulled it down when I moved, I just got them wired up to the one switch when the shed went back up as I also either had them all on or off, never separately, not to mention that'll you'll save a little bit on wire and labour as well.
I have a pull cord switch hanging down next to each of my six lights. Saves walking backwards and forwards to turn lights on and off, and you can have whatever lights you want on wherever you are in the workshop. And, less cabling is needed with this config. Also saves a bit on electricity bill.
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Hi,
I discussed that with my neighbour and he suggested it's worth it to have them separately switched especially if you are working down one end, which I will often be and it saves not much because he is already cutting me a good deal on labour anyway. For 13 double 10amp points (split up onto two circuits), 1 15 amp point, 6 double fluoros with 3 switches, and a panel with a lockable enclosure, plus safety switches on each circuit and running 30amp from my main panel will cost less than $1500. Its a fair distance from the main panel, apparently the cables, switches, lights, conduit, etc is over $1000. I just have to dig the trench between the house and corner of shed and chip in on the day by doing some labour, such as hack sawing conduit, etc.
He indicated he would probably be able to get to our house jobs as well, including safety switches on the house panel, and that because he is already having to do work the house stuff will be much less expensive, and in some cases free.
I think that all sounds pretty good.
Cheers
Jason
Sounds like you are on good thing there.:2tsup:
Some sparkys I know charge that just to turn up:~
Just fit the door, guttering and do the roof and I'm finished :D :2tsup:.
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A window to see out and blue skies, what more could a person want. Oh yeah, a roof :doh:.
Attachment 117770
Ummm... Errr... when fitting the window, you did take into account the height of the guttering, di'ntcha?
It's looking good. :2tsup:
Gasp pant wheeze, mad dash outside. Of course the guttering will fit, 30mm to spare.
What, me worry?
Attachment 117774
Er, um....
GJ, I think you better measure again. :oo: Much easier to replace a sheet of tin now.
From here at Kiewa, I still reckon the window is too high. I usually put the lid on first, then the gutter. The top of the guttering needs to be below the roof, otherwise the water banks up and..... You get the idea.
What's the pitch of the roof? And which way are you running the run-off water? You may have to start a little high at the window end and run back the other way.
I hope all is well, but it pays to measure (twice). :D