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Thread: Hollow wooden surfboard
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20th April 2011, 08:29 PM #16
Thanks for that malb. Going by cubs sketch he's after a board that's going to be loose as a long neck goose as in a fish tail twinny. As I see it that's a good option considering the weight diff between "modern" construction methods and wood boards. As I see it, the wood board is an aesthetic choice, a good one at that and perhaps a reaction against the "modern" style of surfing which is a bit spinny flip floppy for me
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20th April 2011 08:29 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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22nd April 2011, 09:13 PM #17
Hi
Sorry if my drawing was not as detailed as I hoped, around the nose and the back there will be some ply going horizontally in the frame to add some ridgidity, and the stringers going around will have some small block to hold the rails, I drew another diagram so please find it attached. Thanks malb for detailing where abouts the drain is.
Thanks everyone
David
Attachment 167876Just another 17 year old who can work the remote
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23rd April 2011, 08:40 AM #18SENIOR MEMBER
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Hollow surfboards
Cub
Thanks for the instructions about loading photos. I just tried this morning, without success. Haven't got the time to try again. I'm better at attaching photos to emails. One attachment is a complete email with the photos attached.
I'll repeat the offer again if your interested to see what a 15 year old can do with help from his father.
Whitewood
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24th April 2011, 10:51 PM #19
Hi whitewood,
Thanks for the offer just sent you a pm then with my email,
Thanks
DavidJust another 17 year old who can work the remote
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29th April 2011, 06:04 PM #20
Hi everyone
As suggested I have included some images of the frame so far, now if you are going to ask where are the sie rails well the little attachment blocks were being glued while I took this photo and hope to include a photo of it next week or so, Thanks everyone
David
BTW if the images seem of incredibly poor quality it's becuase I took them on my phone.
Attachment 168511
Attachment 168512
Attachment 168513Just another 17 year old who can work the remote
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29th April 2011, 09:06 PM #21Senior Member
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Before you proceed Cub, have a look at some websites
Cub,
Looks like you are on the right track mate.
I have made a number of hollow wooden surfboards (HWS) and am just in the middle of making another one for my daughter....a 5'10 fish with a batwing tail. I have also been on a week long course with a pioneer of HWS by the name of Paul Jensen. Paul was one of the first guys to create a system whereby just about anybody with some basic woodworking tools and some rudementary skills can create a beautiful and functional surfboard.
Have a look at Paul's website:
http://http://www.hollowsurfboards.com
There are a number of really good sites on the web, have a look also at the Tree to Sea web site. Rich Blundell is studying in Australia at the moment and he runs boards building courses, perhaps you could save your cash and get along to his (or one of Paul's) course.
Tree to Sea has a great forum, the people on there are really helpful. Just tell them something about yourself and they will help, guaranteed.
Tree to Sea Wooden Surfboard Builders Forum - Index page
If all else fails, happy to answer any questions and assist as best I can. Just send me a pm and I will come back to you.
Oh, and one last thing. If you, or any of the other guys who are making boards want to buy some Paulownia, you should contact the poster on this thread called Whitewood. He has supplied me and his product is excellent and is a great bloke to deal with.......support those who run an honest business.
Good luck,
Anthony
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29th April 2011, 09:18 PM #22Senior Member
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That comment made me laugh Spring water
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29th April 2011, 11:43 PM #23
Onya Cub and to those lending a hand. It'd be a good thing to achieve making one's own board, very satisfying let alone surfing it. I've gotter do one or two before too long. One thing though Cub, one thing that I'd think would be almost essential for the construction method you're using is a flat surface to register to, seems like that table in your pics is a good one but hard to tell.
Thanks Luddite, yeah I was leaning on my age there, thought about it again watching Bells/Winki where the aerial thing wasn't so prevalent and the drawn out carves were the go. Still I'm very impressed with the contemporary maneuvers going on although I can't figure them out sometimes. Something would definitely give way if I attempted them now.
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30th April 2011, 09:38 AM #24SENIOR MEMBER
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That comment made me laugh Spring water
Quote:
Originally Posted by springwater
T As I see it, the wood board is an aesthetic choice, a good one at that and perhaps a reaction against the "modern" style of surfing which is a bit spinny flip floppy for me
Mate, that comment made me laugh.....I say stuff like that and my kids tell me it is because I am too "old school". My oldest bloke told me it would be embarassing to ride on a timber board....only old men ride them.
Long live the old schoolers.
Anthony
Tell your kids that most of my timber goes to people in the 18 to 30 years old range. These the ones who have the skills to make boards without assistance from parents or teachers. I also sell timber to students to make alaia boards as part of the class work. Also I have one 'old' customer who copied his 'glass' board exactly and made an copy in paulownia that was the same weight. He feels it surfs even better than the original. There is nothing wrong with wooden surfboards.
Whitewood
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10th July 2011, 06:25 PM #25
Cub what's going on
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26th November 2011, 04:43 PM #26
Hi all,
sorry about the late reply, i've been helping out with other people projects at school and have had very little time to work on my board, but i've finished the frame, applied the top and bottom ply and i've just put the first layer of cork around the edges
In regards to the cork, do i just trim it using my laminate trimmer or is it best to use a stanly knife? just don't want it ripping off is all.
cheers
Just another 17 year old who can work the remote
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26th November 2011, 05:01 PM #27
Hi Mate.
6mm marine ply, top and bottom of your frame will be heaps strong enough, especially if you epoxy coat and glass the outer edges.
The drain hole in you frame are call "limber holes" in boat building terms. They are there so water can flow to the lowest point in a boat and the removed. Pumped out.
In your case the water would drain from the drain plug.
Another suggestion I would make is to get 2 drain plugs.
There is a flush fitting version which uses a large screwdriver or special key to open it up.
You may need to buy this from oversea, I have not seen any in Aus for some years.
Put one of these unit at each end of your board and stand the board vertically. You are then aiding the natural flow of dry air through the board, while you are not using it.
Paul.I FISH THEREFORE I AM.
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26th November 2011, 06:00 PM #28
cheers, one of the teachers at my school who does a bit of surfing, has found a special plug that is for the ankle strap, which has a gortex layer/membrane in it so it allows ventilation and also acts as ankle strap point.
thanks everyone, i plan to glass the whole board later this year when i'm doneJust another 17 year old who can work the remote
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27th November 2011, 07:41 AM #29Senior Member
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Use your laminate trimmer to cut the cork
Hello Cub,
Board is coming along nicely, well done.
You can buy a vent from this guy:
http://www.surfinggreen.com.au/store...rew-new-model/
The web site is Surfing Green if that link doesn't work. Think carefully about having the vent and leash in one. If there is a failure in either the leash or the vent you are buggered.
Have a read of the comments and techniques the guys use on this link:
Tree to Sea Wooden Surfboard Builders Forum - View forum - Fins, Leashes and Vents
I prefer to have the vent in the nose of the board, a leash set up at the tail of course.
Any questions, just let me know.
Good luck
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27th November 2011, 04:50 PM #30Senior Member
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Apologies for my late inclusion to this forum (new member and poster) Cub.
Whitewood tell your son Laird has ridden a balsa gun that his stepdad Billy made at Jaws and other outside breaks.(oops he probably classifies Laird as old)
Listen to what Malb says as he is on the money.
Fwiw hope that anyone/everyone can make sense out of what few facts i have written below.
Cub you have been given some great advice and there have been some overlapping ideas and thoughts. Originally/historically surfboards were solid wood (heavy and not waterproof) tipping the scales at over 100 lbs when dry and not waterlogged then made hollow over frames (still wooden/timber) which resulted in lighter boards (most i have ever seen were built with bungs/water drainholes as insurance against any seam leakage,)and then they became varnshed/painted etc to waterproof the wood. Not until Bob Simmons made the 1st foam core (polyurethane foam) was fibreglass added to the outside to strengthen the soft inner core also these boards were even lighter still.Timber can be glassed over and hollow boards can be filled with foam even styrene foam, adding either polystyrene or polyurethane foam would only add a few ounces in total, but this is,not necessary at all just as removing foam to increase bouyancy also only results in the gain ability of the bouyant force to increase by those few ounces.
Any foam or core should be designed to increase compressive strength. Foams are bouyant mostly by way of all the air contained in and around the cell structures.
Steve
P.S I have made many types of boards, surfskis, canoes dealt with polyesters and epoxies, timbers, plies and coldmolding so I extend an open welcome to any member to PM regarding any info that i can help anyone with.Last edited by kamusur; 28th November 2011 at 01:51 PM. Reason: grammatical
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