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14th July 2019, 06:45 PM #16
Yes and no. Unless you want to bend a certain part when you raise the table, you have to move the fence across to a minimum certain distance. You can't move it to that distance with the extension in place. If you are willing to bend the sheet metal part of the fence gizmo a bit then you can leave it in place.
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14th July 2019, 07:06 PM #17Senior Member
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- Aug 2016
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What’s the current n4400 price Barra?
N4400 3844.94
A3-31 7043.08
EX Brisbane no extras ( mobility kits etc )
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14th July 2019, 07:50 PM #18Senior Member
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Fence, that’s a bit dodgy on the lifting not working! I’d cut the sheet metal to make it work...no way I’d take it off!
Thanks Barra, that should make Derek feel better about the deal he got a few years ago!
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14th July 2019, 07:53 PM #19
Agreed. Nothing wrong with the pricing - just that it is MOST unlikely that one person will buy the lot, and it will take some time to find that one possible person.
If advertised separately at the right price half of it would have been sold by now. That of course does not prevent someone gloriously coming in and saying "I'll take the lot for $9500".
The seller is balmy.
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14th July 2019, 07:56 PM #20
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14th July 2019, 08:29 PM #21
You know Brett, I've never needed the extensions on the A3-31. I am not saying that they are not needed (although I think I did say that ), just that they are not needed by normal people building normal furniture . OK, I rarely need to joint anything over 2m. I cut long boards down to size, the joint them. What have you been building that requires such long lengths? I am curious.
N4400 3844.94
A3-31 7043.08
EX Brisbane no extras ( mobility kits etc )
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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14th July 2019, 08:43 PM #22
Yes I nearly added that you probably don't need them for, shall we say, "purchased" stock that is pretty straight and well behaved, and I do agree that you can probably do a 2m board if it is pretty straight to start with - maybe even get away with a roller stand just for infeed support.
However, if you are just acquiring timber to put into stock (much of it reclaimed from fences, funnily enough ) then you want to get the best (longest) possible yield. That's where the twisted sisters (and cupping) can come into play. In these cases I'm not usually looking for a final finish, but a "stackable" finish, which needs to be straight but not necessarily premium finish throughout.
I just wouldn't be without that capability to save $400 on the jointer infeed. The Thicky outfeed can wait (as I did) but it sho is useful.
With the difficulty of getting the buggers level - particularly the thicky outfeed - you want to mount it and leave it. The jointer infeed can be taken off and replaced at will without any further adjustment, and thank gawd fer that!
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14th July 2019, 08:45 PM #23
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14th July 2019, 10:21 PM #24Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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14th July 2019, 10:42 PM #25Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2012
- Location
- Newcastle
- Posts
- 337
I’ve done a few long pieces (2m+) lately, dining table top for a mate, double computer desk, a bench seat. My little jet 260 has about 550mm infeed and it gets frustrating.
Ok fence man, no taking the grinder to the hammer...damn what a pain, oh well, better get a felder instead
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