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20th March 2018, 01:24 PM #31Intermediate Member
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Great little set up. Very little sweeping up for you.
Having zero luck tracking down FenceFurniture.
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20th March 2018 01:24 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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20th March 2018, 04:15 PM #32
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20th March 2018, 05:52 PM #33.
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- Feb 2006
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The last thing you want around a drill press and drill bits is the hose or dust port getting in the way of the drill bit or work piece.
A Bell mouth Hood connected to a DC works really well in these situations.
O course if you are using a vacuum cleaner the much lower total air flow means you have to get the suction closer to the drilling action.
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20th March 2018, 08:27 PM #34
I use the dewalt extreme 2 metal drill bits for endgrain regularly. My set goes up to 1/2". I don't know if bigger sizes are available
but they are brilliant drill bits
they look like this
regards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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20th March 2018, 08:29 PM #35
I use the dewalt extreme 2 metal drill bits for endgrain regularly. My set goes up to 1/2". I don't know if bigger sizes are available
but they are brilliant drill bits
they look like this
Screen Shot 03-20-18 at 08.26 PM.PNGregards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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20th March 2018, 10:29 PM #36Intermediate Member
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- Mar 2018
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Loving the input here. Thanks again.
Now, slightly off topic but part of the same process.
I have recently bought a new in box mitre saw supplied with what I believe to be a junk 305mm blade.
Very slow going just slicing off 300mm sections of 70mmx35mm radiata pine.
I was borrowing a neighbour's small Ryobi mitre saw and it was like a hot knife through butter.
I can 'feel' the 305mm's bluntness ( or rather lack of manufactural sharpness ) because I have to slowly
push it through the timber piece.
Before I rush out and throw $100 at a new blade, does sound like the supplied blade is not particularly sharp ?
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20th March 2018, 10:35 PM #37GOLD MEMBER
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- Apr 2014
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Just a suggestion - check that the blade is not on backwards and the nut is tight.
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20th March 2018, 10:40 PM #38Taking a break
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The blade might be a zero or negative rake, in which case it will take more effort to push no matter how sharp it is. That being said, it shouldn't struggle through pine.
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21st March 2018, 09:22 AM #39
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21st March 2018, 09:24 AM #40Intermediate Member
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- Mar 2018
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- GOSFORD NSW
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Blade set in correct direction and tight.
It's quite possible that I have been comparing oranges to apples.
All else being equal will an 80 tooth cut faster than a 100 tooth ?
I have been ignoring this aspect.
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21st March 2018, 09:59 AM #41.
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21st March 2018, 11:51 AM #42Intermediate Member
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- Mar 2018
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- GOSFORD NSW
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Official and unreserved apology to Sam at Swart Tools.
I was comparing apples to oranges and blaming you for it.
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22nd March 2018, 05:58 PM #43
Hi
I'd suggest you consider an auger bit like this one if you can obtain the size you need. This helps clear the chips from the hole better than a twist drill. The link is to an extra long auger, 230mm.
A "TRUE" brad point bit is harder to grind without a thin grinding wheel or perhaps using a dremel style tool. A true brad point bit looks like this...
brad point drill tip.jpg brad point drill tip2.jpgbrad point drill tip3.jpg
Many people (including manufacturers) refer to a pointed drill bit with the cutting edge angles "inverted" like this...
brad point drill tip4.jpg
as a brad point drill bit. This does have a point (depending on the drill purchased) it may or may not be a "brad" point. The brad point being a fine point. This inverted grind is easy enough to do on a grinder, but will not provide the same performance as a true brad point drill bit with "spurs". I don't think the spurs will help a great deal when drilling into end grain, they do however help when drilling across the grain, providing a nice clean edge around the hole, This clean edge can be very useful if you need to drill through melamine or laminate.
The "pretend" brad point drills are a cross between a twist drill and a spade bit.
I purchased a "pretend" brad point drill bit to drill 5mm holes for adjustable shelving. The result was a ragged edge around the hole, not as clean as the result from the Blum 7 spindle drilling head. I purchased a "dowel" drill which is a true brad point drill bit (but only a short drill bit) and the result was a clean edge around the hole.
Anyway, I think the spurs will help keep the drill bit straight when drilling into end grain, but if I was doing the drilling I'd purchase an auger bit. An auger bit usually has the spur.
Good luckKind Regards
Peter
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22nd March 2018, 09:32 PM #44Taking a break
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Sorry Peter, but I thoroughly disagree. You might recall the same discussion last year about "fake" brad points where I showed a perfectly clean hole with one of my self-made inverted grind bits Brad Point Drill Bits - Two Types?
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23rd March 2018, 09:13 PM #45Intermediate Member
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- Mar 2018
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- GOSFORD NSW
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- 31
Thank you Peter.
An auger looked great but I was concerned that it would have a tendency to 'keep going'
and would be difficult to stop. I suppose I could fix a strong stop plate on the bottom of
my jig. I tried a speed bore spade bit with a screw tip and while it was great for drilling 'through'
I really had trouble pulling it up. Do you think the auger you are suggesting might offer the
same resistance ?
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