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  1. #46
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    GOSFORD NSW
    Posts
    31

    Default

    Thanks again Peter.
    Bunnings this morning because I couldn't wait for the ebay Chinese connection.
    Irwin Speedbor set up and a wooden chock to prevent the 'keep going' aspect.
    Like a knife 'falling' through butter like it's not there.
    Now to set up a vacuum to clear the chock and I am off and running.
    Saving a good 10 seconds ( and a lot of pushing ) per bore which can go towards
    my 100T saw's slower than anticipated cutting.

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    McBride BC Canada
    Posts
    3,358

    Default

    I drill dowel holes in the handles of elbow adzes for strength.
    No more than may 10 centimeters.
    No, a pilot hole just allows for wobble with the final 3/8" diameter peg hole.
    Wrecked a few of the last 10 handles I made.

    I unbolt my drill press and turn it around.
    Then turn the head around so it hangs over the edge of the bench.
    I use an 18" x 3/8" "installers bit" or a 12" x 3/8" "aircraft bit" for the hole.
    Takes far longer to get the wood aligned in the machine vise that the hole.
    I have to pull up the bit about every 2-3 cm as it packs with shavings and burns.

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    29
    Posts
    4,920

    Default

    You could probably drop down to a 60 or 72 tooth saw with little difference in cut quality

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    GOSFORD NSW
    Posts
    31

    Default Sounds good to me.

    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    You could probably drop down to a 60 or 72 tooth saw with little difference in cut quality
    I like the finished cut of the 100T but a bit of a speed up with a 72T wouldn't go astray.

  5. #50
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    San Francisco, California
    Age
    71
    Posts
    87

    Default

    Why not use a Forstner bit. They do well into end grain and you can use an extender. If you have a lathe it is easy. if the throat of your drill press is too short then move the table away and mount the piece in a holder so the the table isn't necessary. I use this method to drill into pieces when the throat is too short.

  6. #51
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    GOSFORD NSW
    Posts
    31

    Default

    Thank you for your input handryn.
    Speed is of the essence with my process so my current setup simply involves
    my grabbing a piece of wood and pushing it along a guide onto a fixed drill.
    Very quick ( now ). Any extra processes would add to much time per piece.

  7. #52
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    GOSFORD NSW
    Posts
    31

    Default

    Hi guys. Hope you are all well.
    An Irwin tri-flute Speedbor had solved my grunt problem until I tried out a
    WoodOwl 09705 7-1/2" x 1/2" Tri Cut Ultra Smooth Auger Boring Bit.
    I have now officially entered the hot knife through butter zone.
    It truly is like the timber is not there any more.
    Thanks for all the help good people.

  8. #53
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    2,708

    Default

    Good choice. People rave about them.

    Read the reviews here!: https://www.amazon.com/WoodOwl-09719.../dp/B0009OAJUI

  9. #54
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Wangaratta Victoria
    Age
    73
    Posts
    2

    Default

    That's why I prefer a floor mount pedestal drill, rather than a bench mount

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