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11th December 2011, 04:07 PM #1New Member
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How can I make a photo into a pattern
I'm new to pyrography and I'd like to try to make a pattern from a photo. What is the best way to do this? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks
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11th December 2011 04:07 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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11th December 2011, 08:33 PM #2
If you can scan on a computer . then edit to black & white It may work, for you.
Jeff
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11th December 2011, 10:20 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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I'd probably scan and convert to vector format with something like Adobe Illustrator.
-Scott
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12th December 2011, 12:54 AM #4New Member
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Thanks, I'll give that a try
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12th December 2011, 01:35 AM #5
Here's a starting point in Photoshop -
Turn Photos of People into Line Art -Photoshop Tutorial :: Melissa Evans
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12th December 2011, 09:35 AM #6SENIOR MEMBER
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Hello Lilcee,
One el cheapo way is to photo copy and blow up to say A4 size then trace onto wood using transfer paper (not carbon - it is a problem with removing marks). Transfer paper is reusable and easily bought from your local art store. I have found this to be very effective when traced onto 3 ply. If you go to Sue Walters website you will see many tips and suggestions. Hope this helps, John M.
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3rd February 2012, 09:11 PM #7Novice
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Hello guys,
if you can scan and convert the photo to black and white, print it out.
This method will invert the photo.
Turn the print onto the timber face down. Then wipe - rub the back with with thinners. The picture will transfer onto the timber.
I've done this with a photo of my daughter onto a signature key for her 21'st.
I did convert it to b & w with photoshop. Hope this helps.
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3rd February 2012, 11:39 PM #8
Thinners can be somewhat messy, and the liquid may warp the paper. For laser prints and photocopies, face down (of course), I run over the back with a clothes iron at its highest setting (usually Linen). For fixed registration, attach with staples beyond the working area.
Best to do this while SWMBO is not at home.
Cheers,
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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5th February 2012, 06:20 AM #9GOLD MEMBER
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If you haven't found it already, another resource to look through is the
Pyrography & Woodburning Forum at www.woodcarvingillustrated.com
I'm told that I can start a forest fire with a cigarette butt.
Why can't I get the wood stove going with a blowtorch?
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5th February 2012, 10:12 AM #10
Robson,
your timber is wet , or the torch is out of gas.
Jeff
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25th September 2012, 02:52 AM #11
The way that I have always done it is to print your photo/pattern to the size that you want to pyro and fix it onto the wood with a couple of small bits of bluetak. Then use black carbon paper and preferably a 0.5mm click pencil to transfere it to the wood. If you use blue then there are bound to be a few places where you don't completely cover the carbon line and it will show very clearly. With black it doesn't.
Don't transfere the complete picture, just the important parts like the outline and important inner lines, eyes, nose, etc. Then you don't have a confusing picture in fromnt of you to start. From there you use the picture as a guide to build it up from there.
I am definately no artist and it fascinates me just to see it build..My ambition is to grow old disgracefully. So far my ywife recons that I'm doing quite well! John.
http://johnamandiers.wixsite.com/johns-w-o-w-1
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25th September 2012, 03:34 AM #12GOLD MEMBER
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If the photo is the size of the carving that I want to work on:
Stick the picture to a sunny window. Front or back, you can still see it.
Blank paper on top and trace what I need.
One advantage is that I can slide my new drawing around to change proportions.
Or, combine two or more pictures to get something absolutely unique.
I've been going away from using carbon paper = too greasy and hard to get mistakes off the wood.
Instead, I turn my working drawing over and scribble all over it with an artist's 4B graphite stick.
Those are about 6mm x 12mm x 50mm. Tracing the drawing transfers the graphite.
Be careful from this point on as the graphite is not very well bonded to the wood at all.
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25th September 2012, 06:04 PM #13
I use Graphite paper from the art supplies, rubs off with a normal pencil rubber, and with pic"s , i run them through Kodak program and convert to sepia, I find this works.
Jeff
vk4
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26th September 2012, 05:00 PM #14Senior Member
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I would just like to say thanks for all the advice that has come though on this subject. I have used the method of using a black & white pics and tracing using graphite paper It worked for me but it is good to have confirmation on what i am doing
John
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16th October 2012, 03:32 PM #15Member
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Pyrography tips
A few tips from an experienced pyrographer to avoid lengthy experimentation:
Do not use carbon paper to transfer. It is an ink and will stain timber. The best pyrographers use graphite paper to transfer images and remove any graphite lines by sanding or erasing.
The thinners method of transfer can be risky as you are combining a flammable liquid with a hot burner. The smell of the thinners can be awful, too. Image must be in reverse and only works with pigment based(powder) printers (photocopiers) and will not work with water based inkjet printers.
Plywood is not a good surface for pyrography. I tried to confirm the timber used for the best plywood(even marine plywood) and couldn't get a satisfactory answer. Tasmanian oak is about the best and readily available timber other than sourcing better quality timbers. Remember, the quality of the timber reflects the quality of the pyrography.
Sometimes, to get a good image from a book or photo on to the computer, is to photograph it and digitally transfer it onto an editing program. Scanning can reduce quality. Once on the computer, change image into grayscale and print without colour management.
If there is any other advice I can offer, please feel free to email me at [email protected] but I will try and keep an eye out on the forum as well.
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