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Thread: Blower for Forge
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12th October 2014, 04:06 PM #16Member
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22nd October 2014, 07:04 PM #17Member
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Progress of Forge
Finally received the Blower and started to fit it to the forge I'm making here's a couple of pics of the progression
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22nd October 2014, 07:08 PM #18Member
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Few More
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22nd October 2014, 11:28 PM #19.
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Thanks for posting the pics - be better if they were a bit bigger.
Also how are you controlling the air flow?
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23rd October 2014, 08:06 AM #20
Now all you need is a side draft hood
…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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23rd October 2014, 09:28 AM #21Member
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23rd October 2014, 09:30 AM #22Member
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23rd October 2014, 09:45 AM #23
Depends where yo put the forge & how close the neighbours are. the smithy I work at doesn't have one but it is in an open stall on a farm. Plenty of ventilation. When I build mine it will have a sidedraft.
…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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23rd October 2014, 09:54 AM #24Member
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23rd October 2014, 10:52 AM #25
The fuel gives of Sulphur Gas I think it is and Coal more than coke. Breathing too much of it in or over time it can affect your nervous system. Also if you use coil springs, and other scrap metal for your stock material the coatings on them are smokey and smell terrible so I'm guessing they can't be good for you either.
Not trying to scare you just pointing out you either want a good exhaust or lots of free flowing fresh air or both.…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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23rd October 2014, 11:08 AM #26
I don't have one and have never used one. I would like to try one out because I think it would stop the huge amount of crap that lands on and over me .
I think BobL was saying better if the pictures were bigger . it's nice to be able to enlarge pictures and get in and have a close look I was thinking the same thing.
What I have found with smithing as a hobby is I learn the hard way sometimes .its a great way to learn . I built a forge that I think may be similar to what you are doing , I want a better one , and possibly if you may want better after you run yours for a while . Its a good thing having the skills to rip it apart and start again .
What I was told or heard being discussed when I first got into this was the problem of the clinker and keeping your fire clean . I didn't pay any attention to what I heard and built and used my forge when I needed to .
The big pain was that after the first load of coke was getting used up that parts of the fire would die off , it would start after 15 to 20 minutes of use , a whole half of the fire would die , "Ahh the Clinkers and waste , this is what they were talking about " I would try fishing them out , taking the fire apart and re packing it , it was a pain . My cast iron forge did the same thing , I use this one at home , but it was easier to clean and keep going , some times .
I went to the Mont de lency Black smithing day two weeks ago . I asked some of the guys working there about the forge design they use and how they keep the fire clean and running . Its fantastic . and works well by the looks and its all about the design and how the Disk brake rotor is used. They break up the waste and with the fan turned off rattle the grate in the bottom and the waste falls through . The disc rotor and the grate at the bottom have to be made just right by the looks of it, there is a collar the rotor and the grate. The grate and rotor are left loose and replaceable, they wear out , the collar is welded into the bottom of the forge base . I think by the looks of what your doing is that its the same as I did , it will work and you will learn from it . just keep in the back of your mind that you may want to re use some of those parts.
Rob
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23rd October 2014, 11:27 AM #27
ROB, The design your talking about goes something like this:
You have your forge table with a hole in it that the rotor sits in free floating, held in place by the lip of the rotor. You make a large egg ring from about 3mm bar and weld that to the base of the table around the hole the rotor sits in. This has a flat base attached to it with the down tube (Same as the flange in the pipe version).
So the fire pot becomes a two piece unit a shell and the rotor a removable unattached liner.
Inside the rotor you can add a heavy duty "pot stand" like you have in the Kitchen. Basically get some steel rod and cut two horizontals, then run a series of bars across at right angles leaving a space between eack one and weld in place. Keep in mind to cut the rods at different lengths so your finish grate will sit in a round hole (the brake rotor).
During the working day you stick a fork down into the coke and turn your grate back and forth to break up the clinker, most of the fines should fall out through the ash dump. Then at lunch time or the next morning clean out the fire pot before rebuilding a new fire.
The other method is to have you blower tube come up higher than the base of the fire pot and the clinker falls to the side and forms a doughnut around the blower when the forge is cool the doughnut can be removed. The blower tube needs to have a cap with air holes of course. No personal experience with this type I have used many of the first type.…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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23rd October 2014, 12:38 PM #28Member
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just fired it up for the first time with only timber, it works great I made a video to post but its too large, have to get the young fella to fix it, I'll try to get some coke this week or go to Brisbane next week and pick up some at the Blacksmith supplies in the mean time I'm going into the bush there was a burn off a month ago and some of it got out of hand and made a good fire now there's plenty of charred scrub and trees with plenty of charcoal around so I'll give that a whirl for the time being. It did heat up a bit of flat but not hot enough to get red but enough to bend it.
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23rd October 2014, 01:20 PM #29Member
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1-2014-10-23 11.44.08.jpg1-2014-10-23 11.44.08.jpg
couple of still shots of it warming up
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23rd October 2014, 01:28 PM #30Member
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Hope this works
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