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Thread: my noise maker

  1. #1
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    Default my noise maker

    as some of you are aware I am building a model Napoleon Civil War cannon

    I have opted for a 1/6 scale which gives a barrel length of around 11.5 inches...I added a bit extra at the cascabel ...no one will notice

    I ended up getting the trunnions tig welded to the barrel in lieu of silver soldering...I am now begining to think that that wasnt such a smart idea as I now have some extra ..no no no... a LOT of polishing to do now

    any how here are some pics of where I'm at

    I opted to do 8 felloes for each wheel in lieu of the seven as they are in the real world..why?...the drawing I was following mentioned that they actually had seven but gave the dimensions for an 8 folloes wheel...i didnt read it properly and hence followed the sizes and then realised (after I had cut 14 from the hunk of American Walnut that I had) that it wasnt going to reach at each end..DUH!!! read it properly next time...so not wanting to waste the timber I went for an 8 segment wheel. ...on this its supprising how far out ones so called ubeaut (Makita in this case) compound saw is out when cutting each piece at 22.5 degrees, place them all and the last piece want wont fit...slight error on the angle...mmm 22.5 was actually 22.8..is my guess

    the elevation adjustment ooozeewhatsit in the drawing just didnt look right as it had a sharp cone where the barrel would rest..so I altered as per what I could see on most of the images that Google bought up.

    the steel rings are the the bits for the end of the wheel hubs...some one will tell us what they are

    I was going to chuck my home made wood lathe as I was running out of space...glad I didnt...i soon realised that if I had a chuck that I could fit to it it would be the ideal thing to use as a steel polishing with emery etc machine...so I bought a small chuck from CDCO...and it works a treat!!

    the bore is 1/2 inch...the scale called for .77" but I erred on the side of caution as recommended in the drawing and knowing very well that I will most likely use a high BP charge oneday.to make it go Whooompa!
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  3. #2
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    Hi Eskimo,Not knocking what you are doing ,it is looking Good, but if you don't get all the felloes the

    same size, when you put the spokes in you will have a different gap between the spokes on any small felloes, and it will make it dificult to get the spokes to line exacly oposite to each other,and seeing as how you have made such a good job with the gun's barrell it would be a shame to spoil the metal work with out of shape wheels ,Im pretty certain 8 felloes would cut at 67.5 degrees,and you can make a little jig
    to make them all Identical ,the metal at the end of the knave is not only a finish touch but a some time used as afoot up, but is there to also protect the wheel nut, the iron rims on the knave back and front or each side of the spokes hold the timber together from the pressure that they would get from the road and the wieght that they have to carry. there are plans available for a Napoleon Canon, some forums who make these types of models also have places where you can get plans from,I hope this helps and look forward to some photos of your progress.

    Cheers Eddie

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    Quote Originally Posted by TKO View Post
    Hi Eskimo,Not knocking what you are doing ,it is looking Good, but if you don't get all the felloes the

    same size, when you put the spokes in you will have a different gap between the spokes on any small felloes, and it will make it dificult to get the spokes to line exacly oposite to each other,and seeing as how you have made such a good job with the gun's barrell it would be a shame to spoil the metal work with out of shape wheels ,Im pretty certain 8 felloes would cut at 67.5 degrees,and you can make a little jig
    to make them all Identical ,the metal at the end of the knave is not only a finish touch but a some time used as afoot up, but is there to also protect the wheel nut, the iron rims on the knave back and front or each side of the spokes hold the timber together from the pressure that they would get from the road and the wieght that they have to carry. there are plans available for a Napoleon Canon, some forums who make these types of models also have places where you can get plans from,I hope this helps and look forward to some photos of your progress.

    Cheers Eddie
    Hi Eddie and thanks for the pointers
    I recut the second lot of felloes late yesterday arvo, and now have them all meeting very well......allthough the universal protractor said i had cut them at 22.5 ( as best I could read it) something occurs when you put them all 8 felloes together to form the shape of the wheel...by the time you put the last one down it is obvious that the angle just isnt quite right...there is iether a gap or the last one wont fit in...anyhow some fine tuning and all look good ready for gluing to router out the wheel.

    the plans I am copying are William Greens...and I picked up a mistake last night.... after I had cut the American Oak for the stock...he has a measurement of 1.25 wide for this ...but I was looking at the barrel ...trying to come up with an easy way to polish the welded on trunnions, when i said to my self ..the width at those trunnions shoulders are much wider than 1.25"..closer to 2.00" than 1.25"???..so hows the trunnions going to fit into the cheeks if the the stock is only 1.25"???? good thing I had extra Oak on hand.

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    Quote Originally Posted by eskimo View Post

    the plans I am copying are William Greens...and I picked up a mistake last night....
    no there isnt..me reading to fast again...not concentrating etc etc..the drawing is correct afterall

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    I changed my mind ...again...i know, i should have been female
    I ended up making 7 segment (felloes) for the wheels.....now to glue it all together and router out the wheel to size
    sorry about about having the compound saw support abscuring the pic but I am running out of bench space room..i have 3 enclosure aircons in bits at the moment
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    Yes I can see the felloes you have cut out but are you sure they are all the same size because they don't all look the same to me,and it is important to have them the same sizeas the spoke will not line up properly as each spoke should be direct in line with it's opposite number,with equal gaps between each spoke and at the stage you are at it would be easy to make them equal ,if you have a lathe it would be much easier to cut a wheel out and have it perfectly round,in an earlier post I have an article on making wheels if you can look it up in the scale model section wood working, it might help you to finish the wheels without to much problems,

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    Quote Originally Posted by TKO View Post
    Yes I can see the felloes you have cut out but are you sure they are all the same size because they don't all look the same to me,and it is important to have them the same sizeas the spoke will not line up properly as each spoke should be direct in line with it's opposite number,with equal gaps between each spoke and at the stage you are at it would be easy to make them equal ,if you have a lathe it would be much easier to cut a wheel out and have it perfectly round,in an earlier post I have an article on making wheels if you can look it up in the scale model section wood working, it might help you to finish the wheels without to much problems,
    they're all the same size Eddie....the compound saw with a stop a guide should have made sure of that in the first instance...but measuring them after they were cut proved it..no more than 2-3 thou between them all

    ..on that, i dont think the felloes being out a little would be the problem...drilling the holes to ensure they line up with opposite number is the challenge

    the model is supposed to be a replica and as the full size has seven folloes per wheel then these should be to??..but yes I agree turning them on the lathe would have been the easy way, but I like the idea of being able to brag about my work...(if it works out that is)..and pst dont tell anyone but I am cheating when i can ...just hope I can hide them so they cant be frowned upon

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    I had a look at your thread Eddie
    how do you make the tyre?...and great jigs by the way

    dont you waste a lot of wood making the folloes that way?
    i will be gluing mine to cardboard on top of a bit of waste ply and then cutting the wheel out rotating a router around an axis in the centre of the felloes

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    It did look to me that they were different,But it's good that they are all the same ,There was also a jig for getting the hub spacings right ,as I have made a lot of wheels

    I made a jig just for that job,which allows you to off set the spoke if it calls for it in a plan, If you look at the jig for getting the spokes to the right length, and use some

    thing like that it will automatically get the spaces correct ,The steel rims I cut from a steel pipe if I have the pipe close to the size I want,and turn them on the lathe

    the pipe is always thicker than the rim required,so that the corect size is cut out,

    I find it much better than cutting a strip of metal and silver soldering the ends together, I am always on the look out for off cuts of very thick pipes,

    To your thoughts on the wood wasted cutting the felloes you can usualy get two or more feloes one being smaller for a nother scale if a fine cut off tool is used it

    would be close to a rear and front wheel size,I have bever tried cutting them out with a router, just keep at it.


    Eddie

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    Watch out for the Fun Police - that comes awfully close to being a 'pistol' or 'shortened firearm' under some state's definitions if it is capable of being fired. They could also probably get a case up for 'replica firearm' if they were looking to pad things out. There are a heap of other regulations in different states that may apply.

    I have nearly 30 years with the NSW Police, and now I'm 'retired' I do casual work for one of the leading SPFX & Armouring companies in NSW, which again places me in opposition to the Firearms Registry & their 'advisers' (the Fun Police)

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    Quote Originally Posted by bsrlee View Post
    Watch out for the Fun Police - that comes awfully close to being a 'pistol' or 'shortened firearm' under some state's definitions if it is capable of being fired. They could also probably get a case up for 'replica firearm' if they were looking to pad things out. There are a heap of other regulations in different states that may apply.

    I have nearly 30 years with the NSW Police, and now I'm 'retired' I do casual work for one of the leading SPFX & Armouring companies in NSW, which again places me in opposition to the Firearms Registry & their 'advisers' (the Fun Police)
    I have checked with firearms branch and they say that it is OK...just watch out that you comply with the Summary Offences Act....that is.... dont scare anyone with it

    provided it is a genuine model it is not a problem...take the barrel off the carriage and then its a different story of course

    although the pistol club (of which I am the Secretary) is not licensed for them, SAPOL Firearms Branch do not have any problems with them being used for say on a bi-annual demonstration or major event opening act

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    Having become preoccupied with new mill, and generally being lazy I finally got around to making the spokes

    now to finish off the fellows and put the wheels together
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    Hi I had sort of got out of touch as there was a long way between post on your canon, good that you have got to working on it again look forward to seeing the progression . Eddie

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    Hi Eddie

    yeah thats me slack

    But I have manged to finish one wheel except for steel work

    The timber fellows were glued to ardboard and onto a piece of MDF. They were then turned on the lathe for OD and ID.

    The holes through the fellows and into the bub were drilled on the on the mill using a rotary table at 4.5 degree angle

    The fellows were broken away from the MDF. The mdf was set up on a shaft in the lathe and then the fellows and hub and spokes were assembled etc

    now for the second...its supposed to get easier ..isnt it?

    the last pics shows one thing I forgot to do while assembling and glueing...missed knocking one spoke right down in to the hub...too late now...bit of beeswax will hide that

    The wheel rim is offset to the hub if anyone is wondering. The plan calls for it.
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    Hi Eskimo, I am sort of out of touch with the woodwork section at the moment.am involved with a car total restoration ,sorry I have not been paying attention to your wip,what I can see though is very good, love the wheel progress I recon you have got it down to a fine finish with the spokes and fellies ,don't know how far you have got now I will pay a bit more attion in future.

    Eddie

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