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Thread: to cove and bead?
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1st October 2012, 01:00 PM #16
Sorry about the delay in responding. I've been away racing my strip built K1.
I am currently building my 9th strip built kayak and have not used bead and cove for any of them. I am quite satisfied that there is no benefit, either in time or the quality of the job.
I use the method described by Rob Macks in the link provided earlier.
Apart from my first two kayaks, which were WRC, I have used mostly Paulownia with WRC accent strips. I have found the Paulownia very similar to the WRC as far as bending, cutting and sanding goes, but it is roughly 20% lighter.
I am very keen on the idea of light kayaks and that is just one part of the reason I use so much Paulownia. After the first two kayaks, I also became convinced that 5mm strips are better than 6mm and I notice that Rob Macks is also a big fan of the thinner strips. He explains why here. Laughing Loon Shop Tips
All my kayaks since the first two have been 5mm strips except for my to racing kayaks that are 4mm strips.
Fortunately I paddle my kayaks in water that doesn't involve bouncing them off rocks, so I don't need a bullet proof layup. Consequently my 4.5 metre sea kayaks weigh about 13kg with bulkheads, hatches and seat fitted and the 5 metre one is less than 15kg. The 4.5 metre TK1 is under 8.5 kg and my 5.2 metre K1 is exactly 10.8kg. The K1 is about half a kg over what it might have been, but I was building it from left over strips and a lot of the deck is WRC.
Others have explained the theory behind the advantages of a light kayak. if you want evidence of just how much difference it makes, go to the Blue Heron website, download the free kayak designing software, check the drag on the default design (or your own), then move the waterline up so that the Design Displacement is about 10 or 20kg heavier. Then check the drag again.
Blue Heron Kayaks
One other advantage of the thinner strips that Rob doesn't mention is that when you bevel the strip, you don't have to take as mush off. The gap you are trying to get rid of is about 20% smaller than if you used 6mm strips.
My reading on the subject of bead and cove suggests that if it goes well, it does a good job, but if things don't go well, there are a few reasons why it will look significantly worse than bevelled strips.
There are few photos of my kayaks on this forum and on the Blue Heron forum if you want further evidence that bevelled strips can produce a tidy job.
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2nd October 2012, 10:06 AM #17SENIOR MEMBER
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B & c
Allan it's nice your still going strong both on the water and in the forum. I feel your the most experienced amateur builder around and your opinions are worth reading.
Whitewood
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10th October 2012, 08:57 PM #18
I've only just noticed this thread - lots of good replies there.
Dennis, like Tony A I would go with the straight edges and hand bevel with a block plane - possibly because having done it once it would be a familiar process. I'm not sure that an edge plane with a guide block would help because the bevel angle varies along the strip.
AJ is right about the importance of weight in getting to the water - a heavy boat is less likely to be used and it would be a shame not to use it as often because of this.
I am just getting started on a skin on frame using paulownia for the stringers and purchased enough to do another strip build as well. Have only ripped and scarfed the stringers so far but it seems a nice timber to work with and has a nice pattern, although subtle due to the pale colouring.
What design are you going to build - or haven't you chosen one yet?
Tony A - how about starting a thread to show your build. The Laughing Loon designs look fantastic and there may be a few people on here that would like to see how to go about doing a baidarka. Shooting Star is definitely on my wish list.Cheers, Bob the labrat
Measure once and.... the phone rings!
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