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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Daylesford, Victoria
    Posts
    402

    Default Darren's S&G Kayak build

    Hi all,

    We'll after much reading and looking and procrastinating (and many questions on forums...), I've finally started my first real boat (and I do consider kayaks and canoes real boats ).

    I was here as "Model Shipwright" but changed my login as part of an online forum consolidation process (i.e. kept forgetting who I was on different forums ). So had plenty of practice on smaller things.

    So, I ordered plans for the Chesapeake 17 from CLC (sadly, cheaper to buy in the US and have it airmailed out than to buy here), picked up some gaboon ply and Bote Cote epoxy (marvellous stuff, low odour, mixes well, filler is brilliant, etc).

    Have learnt a lot, and this kayak is the "practice" one before I do a TK1 racing kayak (David Payne's design) which I need to get right. This one will be for cruising around, fishing, etc.

    Enough intro, onto the pics. A couple of shots of the workshop, just for interest...

    #1. Work area, I'm standing where boats will be built. Cupboard to left and drawers under lathe have gone to make more room. A couple of model ships under construciton on the main bench.
    #2. David's TK1 plans on the board for station lofting. Garage door for getting the boats out of when built. Boat space is basically single car garage (whole workshop is double garage) with full-length benches both sides.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Daylesford, Victoria
    Posts
    402

    Default Part 2...

    One thing to remember is that boat panels are curved when finished... remember to check total length of flat panels vs workshop: my speace is just over 17', which is fine for a 17' kayak, but when scarphing panels that totalled 17' 6" I had to support them cross-ways (and hell to rotate end on end too!).

    #1. Lower panels cut. Sides being lofted using pins and tassie oak 6mm x 6mm moulding to join points. Held with mini clip, worked vry well and gave fair lines.

    #2. Now it's looking like a kayak! Hull upside down and stitched with .9mm galv wire. Panels were shaped well and went together with no trouble.

    #3. Close-up. Notice my horible scarph joints. They got better as I went along, but hull below waterline will be painted and feature stripe on side will hide hull join.

    One more...

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Daylesford, Victoria
    Posts
    402

    Default Part 3...

    Making progress...

    #1. Looking a bit ugly at present. Have taped and epoxied seams on interior, and applied one coat to hull interior. Ran a bit (obviously ) so a bit of sanding. Needs a sheet of 'glass in the middle section so that will tidy it all up.

    #2. Hull has had first sand. Joints were tabbed with epoxy and wire pulled out, I wouldn't leave galv wire in there. Sanded to 120 grip, looks good so far. Just need to get to the shop and buy more epoxy and the glass, and fill seams from outside then apply glass (very scary proposition ). Shavings on floor are from start of sheerclamp rounding. Did about a third, then temp hit 37 degrees and it was time for a break...

    Any comments welcome. I hope to finish it over Easter (if it's not too hot next weekend to do the glassing!).

    Undecided at present on rudder and seat type. Will probably be green (deep green like British racing green) below waerline and natural wood on top.

    Anyone know a good marine paint supply place in Melbourne?

    Thanks for looking

    Next up - David Payne TK1 and you may hae noticed the wood strips in on the bench... these are WRC for a Guillemot Mystery and MicroBootlegger.

    Darren

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Alabama, USA
    Posts
    100

    Default

    Just saw this thread. Very cool project. Just about to start building mine next week. I ended up designing my own. I will be following your build.

    I do have one suggestion, even though it's a little late. Go easy on the Epoxy. It is why most first boats weigh a lot more than they should. To much epoxy.

    Don't want to hijack your thread, but here is the boat I am going to be building.

    Wren, my next project
    Jeff

    When we remember we are all mad, the mysteries disappear and life stands explained.
    - Mark Twain
    Excelsior Woodworks My little space on the web

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sunshine Coast
    Age
    71
    Posts
    28

    Default

    HI TK1

    The canoe looks great. Agree with Kudzu about the amount of epoxy. I was spreading on so much on my Eureka when I started that I had enough runs to beat India in the cricket. Used way too much and it simply loaded the boat with weight. The sanding is a total pain.

    Hope that things settle down weather wise for you guys soon.
    Cheers
    Phil

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Australia and France
    Posts
    8,175

    Default

    I wondered who this TK1 character was!

    It's all looking terrific I have to say! I third what the guys above have said re epoxy, and also suggest that next time you pre-coat the interior panels. You'll find that if you do have a bit that's a bit think it'll just puddle rather than run, and it's soo much easier to sand when it's all flat and on the floor or bench.

    It also means cleaning up after you've filleted and so on is much easier.

    Keep up the good work! (did you ever get the surfboat model finished?)

    Cheers,

    P

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kudzu View Post
    I do have one suggestion, even though it's a little late. Go easy on the Epoxy. It is why most first boats weigh a lot more than they should. To much epoxy.
    Some kayak designs go crazy with glass too - which has an even more profound effect. Some even require full glassing the inside and outside of the hull.

    Maybe for an expedition boat that is going to be used far, far from the madding crowd, but the normal glass taping is enough for most peoples' use.

    The other thing is the advice to go easy on the epoxy... still use the right number of coats when coating (3), make sure there is enough glue in every joint for a bit to ooze out if clamped or drywall/plasterboard screwed.

    But if you have a "bit of leftover epoxy" don't add it to the structure - chuck it away. It might hurt a bit, but if there is no place to put it mentioned in the plan it is just added weight as Kudzu suggests.

    Best wishes
    Michael Storer

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Daylesford, Victoria
    Posts
    402

    Default

    Hey Mik & Midge,

    Yes, same old Model Shipwright, but I've progressed to larger boats. BM, I still have the plans for the surf boat...didn't get to build it as other projects got in the way but still have it in mind for a future Bro in Law B'day. Am currently doing a pond yacht and 40' fishing boat model.

    They key thing with thi skayak was as a learning experience, for the epoxy/glass side of things. I am going to sand back what I can of the epoxy tomorrow....in the stern, it all ran down and pooled behind the bulkhead so if I need to add a sail, I have a heavy, solid internal keel already in place So I'll cut it back a bit. And smooth out the inside.

    I am using 200gram glass cloth on the outside, with Bote Cote (sparingly applied ).

    I have learnt a lot, and whilst I know people can build a perfect boat first time, I also accept I'm not one of them.

    So it's good practice for my race kayak (guaranteed to be lighter and more carefully built) and a couple of Gillemot strip-builds (so expect more questions too).

    Thanks for the encouragement.

    Regards,
    Darren

  10. #9
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Daylesford, Victoria
    Posts
    402

    Default Finally...updated pictures

    Hi,

    I've been bad and working on the kayak without taking pictures.

    So here's where I'm at...

    Photos show glassed and epoxied hull. Once again with Bote Cote, the non-yellowing stuff used on the outside of the hull. Beautiful stuff and all I'll use now.

    I used a squeegie for wetting out the glass, and rolled on subsequent coats on the bottom which made it a little thick, I used a squeegie for the fill coats on the top and it came out a lot smoother and a bit thinner.

    Since photos were taken I've sanded the hull to 240 grit (went through 20 sanding pads!). Now making the cockpit surround and working out how to pain the wateline.

    So, two pics of pre-sanded epoxy. Promise to have more soon.

    Overall I'm happy so far, the plans/instructions from CLC were great, but it's a bit heavier than I wanted - my newbie mistake of using far too much epoxy on the inside, especially the end pours which are too big and heavy.

    More pics soon...

    Regards,
    Darren

  11. #10
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    South Oz, the big smokey bit in the middle
    Age
    67
    Posts
    4,377

    Default

    You do realise that you're making some of us feel inadequate

    She's looking good mate Can't wait for the first reports on how she works on the water.

    Richard

  12. #11
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Daylesford, Victoria
    Posts
    402

    Default Progress...

    Hi all,

    Have made some progress in the last week. Planned to launch it on the ANZAC Day weekend, but has taken me longer than expected to paint it.

    Coaming was undercoated and then glued to hull. It will be painted green. Norglass enamel was used for the hull (brushed on) then rubrails were added along the side.

    When the instructions say to add the rails then sand and paint, it's beacause after you've achieved a nice finish on the hull, the rubrail epoxy will squeeze out and ruin it Shounld have known. So a quick sand back, and it's being repainted now.

    Seat and back support were made from closed cel foam, probably to be raplaced by a cmmercial seat later. No footrests yet, I need to work out something temporary as Cape Boatworks are still working on thier rudder/pedal system which I intend to use (only a few weeks away apparently).

    Then I just need to varnish the deck and it's ready to get wet!

    Hatches and deck rigging will be added later, I need to get on with my racing kayak now...

    Darren

  13. #12
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Daylesford, Victoria
    Posts
    402

    Default And...we're done

    Hi,

    All done. Now onto the next one

    Paint and varnish went on OK, despite the week I took off work to complete it being the coldest and wettest week we've had, very unsuited to getting paint or varnish to dry

    And to celebrate the completed build, you get a sexy photo of me and the dog in the boat.

    Out of the water the bow is too heavy - too much epoxy in the end pour, and not using micro balloons - but in the water the trip is OK and won't be noticable once it has some gear inside. Will be fitting it out for fishing when I get the chance - still have to cut hatches (rear one will have foam compartment for expected fish haul) and deck rigging.

    Using a piece of foam for seat at present, just waiting for Cape Boatworks to have their rudder kit ready then I'll install that and the proper seat. At present without rudder, tracks great and paddles well for its size.

    SO, highly recommended for a first build and a good stable touring boat (I can stand up in it OK, and it should carry a sizeable load).

    Regards,
    Darren

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2,139

    Default

    Hi Darren,
    Looks great, the skipper appears fairly pleased with the result too.

    Mike

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Alabama, USA
    Posts
    100

    Default

    Impressive and you did beat me too.
    Jeff

    When we remember we are all mad, the mysteries disappear and life stands explained.
    - Mark Twain
    Excelsior Woodworks My little space on the web

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