Thread: David Payne TK1 build

Here's the next installments. (note I've now decided to post all pics once built, otherwise it's obvious how long this takes me...larger boats are a bit scary in terms of build time for me at present!)

Pics show:

1. Side panel going on. Again, more tape. I ended up using small bronze nails for the side-bottom joint but they still pulled out a bit. Use screws on the other side, and removed when dry. Much better but left visible holes. Panels were cut oversize and trimmed when dry.

2. When the hull was done and glassed with 120gsm glass and Bote Cote, it was flipped and interior cleaned up. Shot is during clean-up of excess epoxy and attaching deck stringers. Plans don't call for this but I doubted the 1.5mm ply's ability to hold the deck curve. Also adds a bit of strength for carrying by cockpit. Commercial footbrace/tiller plate in place.

Nearly done...

These pics show the boat after one coat of varnish. I got lazy and didn't take any pics of the deck going on, but it was basically taped down until dry. Cockpit area was glassed in 120gsm for abrasion resistance and deck done in 60gsm to reduce weight.

Rudder is Rapid Flow from NN, excellent rudders if anyone needs one, attached through the hull with 1.6mm s/steel cable.

Seat is bolted to a central support - I can move it if required, but footplate will mainly be used to adjust fit.

I made a simple cockpit surround, square at the back which gives it a nice retro feel. Future ones though I'll have to make more effort and do oval one so a prayskirt fits.

Overall pretty happy, interested to see how it paddles.

Regards,
Darren

Congratulations Darren! It looks great and thanks for showing us the steps! Is David Payne the yacht designer David Payne, by the way? Also, why did you use chines rather than S & G - ease of build, strength? I'm hoping to build a S & G kayak some time next year (late). At the moment I'm planning to build Willow, a kayak I found in Wooden Boat magazine a little while ago. I'd be grateful for your opinion of that one if you know it. Rick

PS I just looked up David Payne Yachts and found the kayak plans - I didn't know they did kayaks

Hi Rick,

Yes, as you found it's the same David Payne. He does some sea kayaks as S&G, but the racing ones are older designs and he based the build method on his larger boats hence the chines and panels. His plans don't have the offsets for the S&G panels and I couldn't be bothered working it out.

Worked fine, although a bit harder to get an exact fair curve as the paulownia was only 12mm thick so not much to take off and so there's a few minor hollows and bumps. Provides a very solid structure and I think I could even go lighter ply next time with this method.

Hopefully plenty more David Payne designs in my future builds!

Regards,
Darren

Thanks Darren. So, if you did it again, you'd use lighter ply and that would allow slightly fairer curves I guess, would it? Rick

Hi,

Lighter ply would be more for weight reduction. 3mm - 4mm ply is about right for a sea kayak that might take a few hits, and will use heavier glass anyway.

For a racing kayak it shouldn't take too much punishment, so I think I could get away with 1.5mm ply and lighter glass as long as there's a few bulkheads or the chines/stringers to help hold the shape.

Fairing in this case was more to do with getting the paulownia keel & chines straight, and then as these were thin the ply and clamps pushed against them in a few places and dried out of fairness (ge clamping across the hull pulled them in a bit in places). Screwing the ply to the chines would have alleviated this.

S&G is still one one of the easiest ways to get the panels all lined up effectively.

Regards,
Darren

Thanks again Darren. I'm after a kayak to paddle around in Port Stephens. It gets fairly rough at times and I hate craft that don't perform well, so I'd like it to be fairly fast. I weigh about 75kg and I'm fit enough. I'll mainly paddle in early mornings to take a few photos and check out the wildlife etc., but, as said, it can get rough fairly quickly. My brother is a sort of `kayak petrol head' who goes in the Hawkesbury paddle each year so I don't want to be left too far behind him either! Would you recommend a particular kayak to build? Rick

S&G will get you on the water a lot faster than a wood strip design. The kings of S&G are generally sonsidered to be Chesapeake Light Craft - www.clcboats.com - and they have lots of seaworthy and efficient designs.

If you check out their site, the kayak descriptions show graphs of their stability, speed, room,e tc. A good way to compare.

The C17 isn't bad - very stable and paddles well, but ther'es faster ones. At 75kg's you'll have a few options due to your light weight as wetted surface area, beam and length all contribute to speed (and also stability). Again there's some good info on the site. I'd definitely look at their Shearwater range, or even the Chesapeake 16LT. The Pax 18 is fast but may not be ideal in bay onditions - although people paddle in the ocean, it's more of a race boat than for photos.

I'd still definitely consider the Willow - I have thought of building that. It looks pretty efficient and would hold up well in the bay. A nice design. Maybe email the designer about speed and what it compares to in this & stability.

Good luck with the build, you can't go wrong with any of these and in 3 or 4mm ply and 120 - 200gsm glass they'll be lighter than plastic sea kayaks and look better.

Regards,
Darren

http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/stitch...titchplans.htm
Tons of information on the site.
Cheers,
Dave.

The other mob you might consider are http://pygmyboats.com/
I like their more rounded shapes & lowered sheer better than the Greeenland styles.
cheers
AJ

OK, so CLC don't have the rights to good designs. Just my favourite "easy to follow" site.

Also check out www.shearwater-boats.com

Run by Eric Schade, brother of Nick who runs Gulliemot kayaks. Nick does beautiful strip kayaks, Eric doesn't do a bad job of S&G either. Blue Fin may be of interest.

That's my problem...so many choices! About to build a Payne K1 parallel to a Guillemot Night Heron, then have a MicroBootlegger, MillCreek, Payne TK1 again (modified), Flyfisher, and a few others on the list. Then to start on the actual boats...

Regards,
Darren

LOL
Too many choices.
I got so confused I downloaded Gregg Carlson's "Hulls" & designed my own.
Hoping to have got all of it right this time (hull #5)...

Hi Guys,

S&G will get you on the water a lot faster than a wood strip design.

A Skin On Frame boat will be even quicker again. SoF boats are lighter & cheaper than S&G or stripped kayaks, and if you don't like the way the hull performs you can remove the skin, make changes then apply a new skin. Try modding the hull on a S&G as easily !

West Greenland kayaks are typically narrow, fast & seaworthy so you may like to consider building one. You can get instructions for a typical example on www.instructables.com that'll be sized to suit your body dimensions.

So How does it paddle ?
how much did it tip the scales at ?
was thinking about putting one together, but would like it to compare to a fiberglass one.
Advice is appreciated