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Thread: David Payne TK1 build
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21st December 2008, 09:14 PM #1
David Payne TK1 build
Hi,
After much stuffing about, other priorities and epoxy, I've finally finished building a TK1 - racing touring class kayak - designed by David Payne. Heres some photos.
This is only my second kayak build. It's hard-chined 3mm marine ply sides and bottom, with 1.5mm marine ply deck. Unlike S&G ones, it's built on chines and a keel piece. These I made out of Paulownia. Great to work with, and lightweight so I'll be using it again.
Build went well, and mistakes being mine and not David's. Plans were excellent and easy to follow. I wimped out and bought a rudder and footbar/tiller, and used an old fiberglass seat. Next time around I'll build my own.
Maiden voyage is this Wednesday. It's only had one coat of varnish but more will follow. I'm keen to make another one, but a bit narrower at the chine and lower volume. May do a strip version and round over the form corners. Still thinking about this while I build a strip K1 based on David's plans also.
Shots below show:
1. First panel going on the forms. I built a strongback using MDF in a box beam on 2 sawhorses. Moulds are from MDF traced from the plans. Using lots of clamps to hold panel to the keel & chine. Other panels on bench to left. Also clogging up the workspace are f/glass TK1 and TK2 with CLC C17 above.
2. Stern with first panel clamped on. Pic shows forms - a couple have permanent bulkheads in 3mm ply attached.
3. Second bottom panel going on. This got harder as I couldn't clamp the keel so had to tape it. I wanted to avoid nails/screws to keep weight down but could have removed them later
Next installment below...
Regards,
Darren
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21st December 2008 09:14 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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21st December 2008, 09:23 PM #2
David Payne TK2 pt 2
Here's the next installments. (note I've now decided to post all pics once built, otherwise it's obvious how long this takes me...larger boats are a bit scary in terms of build time for me at present!)
Pics show:
1. Side panel going on. Again, more tape. I ended up using small bronze nails for the side-bottom joint but they still pulled out a bit. Use screws on the other side, and removed when dry. Much better but left visible holes. Panels were cut oversize and trimmed when dry.
2. When the hull was done and glassed with 120gsm glass and Bote Cote, it was flipped and interior cleaned up. Shot is during clean-up of excess epoxy and attaching deck stringers. Plans don't call for this but I doubted the 1.5mm ply's ability to hold the deck curve. Also adds a bit of strength for carrying by cockpit. Commercial footbrace/tiller plate in place.
Nearly done...
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21st December 2008, 09:35 PM #3
Third & final...
These pics show the boat after one coat of varnish. I got lazy and didn't take any pics of the deck going on, but it was basically taped down until dry. Cockpit area was glassed in 120gsm for abrasion resistance and deck done in 60gsm to reduce weight.
Rudder is Rapid Flow from NN, excellent rudders if anyone needs one, attached through the hull with 1.6mm s/steel cable.
Seat is bolted to a central support - I can move it if required, but footplate will mainly be used to adjust fit.
I made a simple cockpit surround, square at the back which gives it a nice retro feel. Future ones though I'll have to make more effort and do oval one so a prayskirt fits.
Overall pretty happy, interested to see how it paddles.
Regards,
Darren
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22nd December 2008, 02:25 AM #4Senior Member
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Congratulations Darren! It looks great and thanks for showing us the steps! Is David Payne the yacht designer David Payne, by the way? Also, why did you use chines rather than S & G - ease of build, strength? I'm hoping to build a S & G kayak some time next year (late). At the moment I'm planning to build Willow, a kayak I found in Wooden Boat magazine a little while ago. I'd be grateful for your opinion of that one if you know it. Rick
PS I just looked up David Payne Yachts and found the kayak plans - I didn't know they did kayaksRFNK
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22nd December 2008, 08:58 AM #5
Hi Rick,
Yes, as you found it's the same David Payne. He does some sea kayaks as S&G, but the racing ones are older designs and he based the build method on his larger boats hence the chines and panels. His plans don't have the offsets for the S&G panels and I couldn't be bothered working it out.
Worked fine, although a bit harder to get an exact fair curve as the paulownia was only 12mm thick so not much to take off and so there's a few minor hollows and bumps. Provides a very solid structure and I think I could even go lighter ply next time with this method.
Hopefully plenty more David Payne designs in my future builds!
Regards,
Darren
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22nd December 2008, 10:53 AM #6Senior Member
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Thanks Darren. So, if you did it again, you'd use lighter ply and that would allow slightly fairer curves I guess, would it? Rick
RFNK
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22nd December 2008, 11:19 AM #7
Hi,
Lighter ply would be more for weight reduction. 3mm - 4mm ply is about right for a sea kayak that might take a few hits, and will use heavier glass anyway.
For a racing kayak it shouldn't take too much punishment, so I think I could get away with 1.5mm ply and lighter glass as long as there's a few bulkheads or the chines/stringers to help hold the shape.
Fairing in this case was more to do with getting the paulownia keel & chines straight, and then as these were thin the ply and clamps pushed against them in a few places and dried out of fairness (ge clamping across the hull pulled them in a bit in places). Screwing the ply to the chines would have alleviated this.
S&G is still one one of the easiest ways to get the panels all lined up effectively.
Regards,
Darren
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22nd December 2008, 11:31 AM #8Senior Member
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Thanks again Darren. I'm after a kayak to paddle around in Port Stephens. It gets fairly rough at times and I hate craft that don't perform well, so I'd like it to be fairly fast. I weigh about 75kg and I'm fit enough. I'll mainly paddle in early mornings to take a few photos and check out the wildlife etc., but, as said, it can get rough fairly quickly. My brother is a sort of `kayak petrol head' who goes in the Hawkesbury paddle each year so I don't want to be left too far behind him either! Would you recommend a particular kayak to build? Rick
RFNK
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22nd December 2008, 11:39 AM #9
S&G will get you on the water a lot faster than a wood strip design. The kings of S&G are generally sonsidered to be Chesapeake Light Craft - www.clcboats.com - and they have lots of seaworthy and efficient designs.
If you check out their site, the kayak descriptions show graphs of their stability, speed, room,e tc. A good way to compare.
The C17 isn't bad - very stable and paddles well, but ther'es faster ones. At 75kg's you'll have a few options due to your light weight as wetted surface area, beam and length all contribute to speed (and also stability). Again there's some good info on the site. I'd definitely look at their Shearwater range, or even the Chesapeake 16LT. The Pax 18 is fast but may not be ideal in bay onditions - although people paddle in the ocean, it's more of a race boat than for photos.
I'd still definitely consider the Willow - I have thought of building that. It looks pretty efficient and would hold up well in the bay. A nice design. Maybe email the designer about speed and what it compares to in this & stability.
Good luck with the build, you can't go wrong with any of these and in 3 or 4mm ply and 120 - 200gsm glass they'll be lighter than plastic sea kayaks and look better.
Regards,
Darren
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22nd December 2008, 02:55 PM #10Senior Member
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These are good too-I hope to start on a Cirrus later this year.
http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/stitch...titchplans.htm
Tons of information on the site.
Cheers,
Dave.
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22nd December 2008, 07:16 PM #11
The other mob you might consider are http://pygmyboats.com/
I like their more rounded shapes & lowered sheer better than the Greeenland styles.
cheers
AJ
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22nd December 2008, 09:43 PM #12
OK, so CLC don't have the rights to good designs. Just my favourite "easy to follow" site.
Also check out www.shearwater-boats.com
Run by Eric Schade, brother of Nick who runs Gulliemot kayaks. Nick does beautiful strip kayaks, Eric doesn't do a bad job of S&G either. Blue Fin may be of interest.
That's my problem...so many choices! About to build a Payne K1 parallel to a Guillemot Night Heron, then have a MicroBootlegger, MillCreek, Payne TK1 again (modified), Flyfisher, and a few others on the list. Then to start on the actual boats...
Regards,
Darren
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23rd December 2008, 01:01 AM #13
LOL
Too many choices.
I got so confused I downloaded Gregg Carlson's "Hulls" & designed my own.
Hoping to have got all of it right this time (hull #5)...
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12th January 2009, 10:26 AM #14New Member
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Hi Guys,
S&G will get you on the water a lot faster than a wood strip design.
West Greenland kayaks are typically narrow, fast & seaworthy so you may like to consider building one. You can get instructions for a typical example on www.instructables.com that'll be sized to suit your body dimensions.
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20th May 2009, 07:40 PM #15New Member
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So How does it paddle ?
how much did it tip the scales at ?
was thinking about putting one together, but would like it to compare to a fiberglass one.
Advice is appreciated
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