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  1. #91
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Spilsby, Linconnshire,UK
    Posts
    16

    Default PBK Kayak.

    Hi, Mike, Hi, Jeff,

    Laminated beech should be fine for the hog, gunnels & stringers, as long as the grain's fairly straight & it's pretty knot free. Old Percy used to specify 3/4" x 1/2" stringers, so you'd probably get two widths out of your 40mm stuff.
    We don't have a great selection of timber in these parts, either, unless you contact one of the specialised boatbuilding suppliers, which tends to be pretty expensive.
    I've consequently used WBP ply, rather than marine ply for frames, & some anonymous softwood, which looks like Douglas Fir, but could be anything, for the stringers, etc.
    Those drawings look interesting, Mike. They don't look like the ones I've got.
    I've attached a number of detail photos of my PBK14. I'm afraid the job's still a bit gluey at this stage.That's the trouble with using epoxy, it's a devil of a job keeping your joints clean! Back to the scraper!Viktor asked to see them a few weeks ago, but I'm afraid that we work to a different time scale ot everyone else here in Lincolnshire. Ours is much slower!

    Bye for now.

    Bill

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  3. #92
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    united kingdom
    Age
    81
    Posts
    29

    Default PBK Kayak

    Hi Bill...I think exterior ply is fine..plenty of yacht varnish into the edges to seal it...that was the whole idea of these kayaks they were built with available materials...it would be interesting to see whether you could build a kayak out of selected joined lengths of deal..i bet it would the do job just as well and double up if you had a large knot in a stringer...the pbk 20 from the scouts that i am recovering has a few knots in the stringers you just double up inside if they are to large and are weak ,i think as long as you use waterproof glue and brass screws it would give a good deal of life ( no pun intended)..by the way i think you ought use a bit more epoxy on you photographs they do not seem to have stuck to your message...when i uploaded photographs first it took several goes all the best Mike ....

  4. #93
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    South Africa
    Posts
    8

    Default beach


    Hi, Bill

    Thanks for the thumbs up on the beach. I have had some criticism about using it as it is not a traditional boat building wood. I have selected all the choice strips out of what I have for the vital parts.
    I did have a look at the normal ply but it was S.A. Pine which is very soft and a wide grain.
    I had a look at your PBK 14 and it looks good. I wish my one was that far.
    I have had some problem scaling of the PBK 20 drawings as the lines are so thick and indistinct. I eventually used Microsoft Office; publisher .I pasted the drawings into a new page. Then I could draw up a 1 inch grid and zoom to 400% and drag the drawing until the drawing grid matched my 1 inch grid. It makes it so much easer to draw the lines onto my grid using the middle of the exploded drawing.
    I made each rib a different color and did the same thing for the second drawing, just locking up the whole grid and lines and flipped it over so that my center line stayed the same. I could print it out on my home printer as it gives lines to line up the pages to full size.
    I am hoping to finish drawing the stem and stern onto card board tonight and then start getting them on to plywood.
    I am posting a picture of an a4 size drawing. Some one else may be able to use this method as well.
    Regards
    Jeff

  5. #94
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Spilsby, Linconnshire,UK
    Posts
    16

    Default Pbk14

    Hi, Guys,
    I think I've cracked the photos this time. Probably my age.
    You're right in that beech isn't an ideal boatbuilding material. It ain't light & it ain't stringy, i.e. it doesn't bend that well & isn't that resilient. However, its been used steamed to curves in furniture since the year dot. As long as the grain runs pretty well along the length of the timber, & doesn't wiggle about too much, laminating 3mm strips of it together as Jeff intends to do should be ok for these purposes. It would be better if you could laminate it onto the kayak frames direct, rather than laminating it straight & bending it onto the kayak, as this way you will be building in less internal stresses. As Mike says, there's no shame in using what you have available.
    For my stringers, I used 20mm x 12mm strips of whitewood from the local B&Q store. I had to wade through dozens of them before I found enough substantially knot free lengths. They were only available in 2400mm lengths, so I had to scarfe joint them, (photo attached), but I did use them with the scarfes offset on the kayak.
    Must go.
    The varnish tin calls!
    Cheers,
    Bill.

  6. #95
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    united kingdom
    Age
    81
    Posts
    29

    Default PBK Kayak

    Hi Bill...That is looking pretty good what you have done.It got to be on the water next year.....that front cockpit combing joint can be a nightmare though.......I like Jeffs lofting colour idea for his the frame identification...all the best Mike.....

  7. #96
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    South Africa
    Posts
    8

    Default stringer problems

    Hi Mike

    I have cut out the frames from the drawings you posted for me of the P B K 20. After months of delays I have got to the point of fitting the stringers and I am having a challenge to get them to bend so sharply between the bow and no 2 frame and no 8 frame and the stern. The stringers run in a straight line from no2 frame to no8 frame. This is for the one that is the closest to the keel. I hope you have some advice for me.

    Kind regards
    Jeff

  8. #97
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    united kingdom
    Age
    81
    Posts
    29

    Default Percy Blandford pbk 20

    Hi Jeff ..the centres of the frames need to be cut more..or are you going to sit on the top of the canoe...the stringers where they start to bend have to be reduced in thickness by planeing just before the bend to allow more spring in the stringer the timber to be removed from the outside surface..when you can get enough twist on the stringer to do this use a "G" cramp on the stringer this allows you twist the stringer to align more of a flat angle to the stem or stern post you might have to cut the inner angle with a saw...i hope this makes sense...kind regards Mike

  9. #98
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    South Africa
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Hi Mike ..

    Thanks Mike I will try that as soon as I can get back in my garage.

    Kind regards
    Jeff

  10. #99
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Spilsby, Linconnshire,UK
    Posts
    16

    Default PBK Stringers.

    Hi, Guys,
    Hope I'm not trying to teach my grandma to suck eggs, but my PBK instruction sheet says not to twist the stringers too much near the ends, but to saw them off at a compound angle to lie flat against the stem & stern.
    I've foung the very best saw for this job is a Japanese pull saw. You get much better control in this type of situation & no binding.
    Hope this helps.
    Happy New Year,
    Bill.

  11. #100
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1

    Default

    Would love to see photos and or plans for canoes if you still have them Thanks

  12. #101
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Spilsby, Linconnshire,UK
    Posts
    16

    Default Pbk 14

    Hi, Guys,
    Has anyone out there actually used polyester reinforced PVC lorry tarp type material to cover a kayak & had significantly better results than me??? Without any wrinkles that is?? (Photo attached).
    I've tried heat (lots), extreme tension, applied with various levers, the wife, & even the dog but I can't get it any tighter than this.
    It came off five minutes after the photo was taken, & my next task is to fill in an application form for the next local long distance tarp hurling contest.
    And then order some actual canvas!
    Wish me luck!!!
    Bill.

  13. #102
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    united kingdom
    Age
    81
    Posts
    29

    Default Percy Blandford pvc h/d

    Hi Bill..Yes i have used this and i am about to cover another canoe in it....the secret i have found is to take the canoe in the garden on a hot day ,on trestles also leave the pvc out in the sun before use to warm,,,,,,,, always tension atwarthships not longditudional....start tacking in the centre and work out at the same time on both sides to the stern and bow...you might find the areas at the stern and bow wrinkle at first...lightly tack in these areas leave overnight and try the next day on a warm day..thats if there is one hope this helps Mike

  14. #103
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    united kingdom
    Age
    81
    Posts
    29

    Default Percy Blandford canoe covering

    Hi Bill...if you want to contact me be e mail [email protected] will give you my landline no there are a few helpfull tips to using this material...it is well worth as it will sustain plenty of knocks when you are using the canoe kind regards Mike

  15. #104
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    8

    Default Skinning with PVC

    I used a hot air gun and lots of clamps. The PVC is quite supple once it gets hot.

    I clamped the PVC at the bow and stern with as much stretch as I could get at room temperature and then heated a section at the centre, stretching, clamping and then stapling my way to the bow and stern, about 30cms at a time.

  16. #105
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Hereford U.K.
    Posts
    2

    Default Hello Guy

    Hello Guy, I would be really interested in learning more about PB canvas covered kayaks. I have just bought two what I believe are PBs but have only seen photos. Take delivery in the next few days.

    One appears to be usable and the other complete in all but the skin. I mean to use the first one for now while I restore the other and, if it needs it, restore the second one once the first is ready to go.

    I am going to run the length of the Rio Pisguera in Northern Spain, a distance of some 280 kilometres, hopefully this year. I mean to walk from the rivers source in the Picos de Europa to a point where the river is water enough to support one of the kayaks and run with it from there until the river is big enough to float my strip cedar canoe which I will use till journeys end where the Pisguera joins the Duero at Valladolid.

    Any help and advice will be much appreciated; especially on the proofing and preparation of the ducking for the skin.

    PapaLobe




    Quote Originally Posted by Guy Burns View Post
    Hi,

    just thought I'd drop by and say that if anyone is interested in seeing photos or instructions for some Percy Blandford style 1950s timber and canvas canoes, let me know.

    There are three of four within a few kilometres of me here in Devonport, and I have three myself.

    Guy Burns

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