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Thread: WRC Canoe

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    moonta bay s.a.
    Posts
    32

    Default WRC Canoe

    Hi from the Top End
    Have heard about the " Black Art " of boat building and decided to give it a go
    Ordered Bob Special from the good people at duck works and recieved said
    canoe now not doing this before (marine mech) have managed to get the canoe
    up to the closing of the hull with great enjoyment so far .
    Question / having sanded the hull have noticed small holes in the epoxy between
    the planks will these all need filling or will the glassing /epoxy fill these .
    Any advise would be greatly recieved
    Regards (now bitten) Rob



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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Tuross Head, South Coast, NSW
    Age
    77
    Posts
    155

    Default

    I get the impression from your comments and your pictures, that you used epoxy to glue the strips together. That is a bit unusual. As the timber is encapsulated in glass and resin, there is no need to use expensive, slow setting, messy epoxy to join the strips. The normal procedure is to just use normal wood glue.

    I realise that information is not much help to you at this stage of construction.

    There should be no need to do anything about those tiny air bubbles. The epoxy used to wet out the glass should fill them. A lot of people apply a fill coat to the timber before putting the glass on and there are good arguments for doing that. That filler coat should give you an idea of how the little holes will fill. The epoxy used to wet out the glass will do an even better job of filling.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Adelaide - outer south
    Age
    67
    Posts
    937

    Default

    Hi Rob,

    From where I sit that's a fine job you've done. As a strip build wannabe I must say that if all I have to worry about when I finally get to it is holes like those then I'll be very happy. I understand that even staple holes don't need to be filled but many people do so for aesthetic reasons.

    If you have any earlier progress photos I 'd like to see a bit of a build log (a few others here may be interested as well).

    Good luck with the rest of it and let us see how the glassing & fit out go.
    Cheers, Bob the labrat

    Measure once and.... the phone rings!

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    moonta bay s.a.
    Posts
    32

    Default Wrc

    Hi Bob
    Yep no wood master but seem to muddle my way thru
    as long as im wood working im a happy chap
    The other half reckons shes a canoe widow ! You get that with the big jobs
    Have included some progress photos in the construction of the canoe
    do you like the one with the nutmeg pidgion just working away on the canoe in it came
    sat with me all day in the later part of the day just took off
    Many thanks for the intrest

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Suburbia SE Melbourne
    Posts
    26

    Default

    Hi Rob
    I've just glassed outside of my Bob's Special, Don't know whether you've bought yout cloth yet, found that the only retail supplier of 1.4m wide cloth is Boatcraft Pacific, enables you to use one piece instead of 2 pieces and joining down the keel. Found that minor holes like yours filled with exopxy and are not noticeable. Now scaping/sanding out the inside...
    cheers David

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
    Posts
    2,270

    Default

    Yes, fill all the depressions (the one's on the boat, not your personal demons), fix dings, divots and any other surface defects, before applying the fabric. The smoother the surface before you epoxy the cloth down, the prettier the result (always).

    Using epoxy for the strips, is a good idea and is generally recommended, because it's gap filling. Whereas regular wood glues like plastic resin or carpenters glue aren't. Also some of these glues, such as the PVA's, don't let epoxy stick to it very well, which can cause trouble with the sheathing later in the build.

    You look like you've followed directions well and have done a fine job of her. The rule is, make the surface as pretty as you want it to appear under the fabric. If it's to be a clear finish, then it goes without saying, the surface needs to be free of defects or they'll all be visible under the cloth, with no good way of fixing it other then putty and paint.

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