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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2013
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    Default 14" Bandsaw cleanup

    Hi all, running through an old 14" bandsaw at the moment to get it up and running in some kind of shape. Polished up the table, fixed an issue with tracking (Adjustment nut hole had been stripped out - pics fixing below)

    The top wheel bearings will go. very clean considering but also very grabby. Have a bearing place 15mins away for these.

    Needs a new belt, any thoughts on segmented for these? There's a lot of vibration which im hoping is coming from the belt and the top bearings. the wheels run true with no wiggle in any case.

    Biggest issue at this stage is the guides. As the pics below will show, new bearings obviously. But not sure what to do about the whole setup. I remember seeing upgrade sets everywhere but now they seem to be hard to find and cost a mint. If I stick with the blocks is there somewhere you purchase from? do I just machine down the ends to make the flat again?

    Considering getting an aftermarket fence to top it off, but not really sure if I want to spend too much on it, or just put it in a tin towards a newer model down the track.

    Let me know your thoughts,

    Cheers

    Dan
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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    In between houses
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    Default

    Run it without a band first, quickest way to source vibration issues. Good to see an older machine being given a new life, most likely will outlast newer ones easily.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Default

    Those look like pretty standard bearings which you can replace with any number of after-market devices, depending on how deep your pocket is, such as Olson Cool Blocks, Carter bearings and various ceramic devices.

    On my even older PaulCall 12" bandsaw, where the guides are not standard like yours, I am experimenting with facing the existing steel guides with UHMW self-adhesive slick surface tape. I got a roll of this from here. I just stuck it on the steel guides and, so far, so good - less noise and vibration and seems to run more truly. If you want to try it, I'm happy to put 15 cm of the tape in an envelope (a 30 metre roll will last me a lifetime). So DM me with your postal address and I'll post in the next day or so.

    I would machine down the ends to make them flat first and then try with and without the tape stuck on and decide which works best.
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
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    When I had an old Hafco 14'' I replaced the guide blocks with hardwood. Home made cool blocks. Kind on the blade and the saw ran very quiet. You do have to square up the block faces when required but it works well.
    Regards
    John

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    South Australia
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    Default

    I would replace the whole setup with a three bearing system if i could find an Australian stockists. Or a reasonably priced American distributor

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jmk89 View Post
    Those look like pretty standard bearings which you can replace with any number of after-market devices, depending on how deep your pocket is, such as Olson Cool Blocks, Carter bearings and various ceramic devices.

    On my even older PaulCall 12" bandsaw, where the guides are not standard like yours, I am experimenting with facing the existing steel guides with UHMW self-adhesive slick surface tape. I got a roll of this from here. I just stuck it on the steel guides and, so far, so good - less noise and vibration and seems to run more truly. If you want to try it, I'm happy to put 15 cm of the tape in an envelope (a 30 metre roll will last me a lifetime). So DM me with your postal address and I'll post in the next day or so.

    I would machine down the ends to make them flat first and then try with and without the tape stuck on and decide which works best.
    Hi JimK, do you think that tape would work ok on the bottom of drawer slides? Sorry to hijack the thread.

  8. #7
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    Why? Nothing wrong with the original setup, it works, thousands of machines have it, Why throw hundreds of dollars at it when a bit of tweaking will get it running nicely?

  9. #8
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    Feb 2007
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    blue mountains
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    I agree with riverbuilder. The blocks on your machine will be fine if the faces are squared. My current saw has roller guides but they just do the same job of preventing the blade twisting.
    Regards
    John

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by riverbuilder View Post
    Hi JimK, do you think that tape would work ok on the bottom of drawer slides? Sorry to hijack the thread.
    It may well, so long as it sticks well to the surface you put it on.
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  11. #10
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    May 2013
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    South Australia
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    Default

    Ok I will machine them down and try some of that tape. (DM sent). The only details I have for blades is 2350 written in handwriting on the front, which is helpful. Don't have a manual for the beast, so what are peoples thoughts on the widest belt for one of these old 14" machines?
    I have a pretty good thin blade on it now. its only got a 3/4hp motor on it.

    Cheers

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