Thread: 17" and 18" Bandsaws - advice wanted

Good choice, Derek.
I think you'll find it's wise to put in a separate circuit.

Waaah, I wants one!

Hi Derek,

At 240V and 10A, the motor'll be pulling 2400W = 3.2Hp Startup currents are a bit higher.

I run a 15A plug on mine - I think it's 1.8kW = 2.5Hp

My comments on the saw:


http://woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/...t=n4400&page=4


http://woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/...8&postcount=21

http://woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/...6&postcount=60

http://woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/...400#post409607

http://woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/...400#post331316

Dust emissions a bit higher than other saws I've used.

CHeers,

eddie

Originally Posted by derekcohen

OK, I bought a bandsaw today. The GMC that everyone raves about. They must be good then?

Whom I kidding? I went for the Hammer 4400.

Gawd, it is a beauty! Exceptionally well made. So much so that I had the agent check the price for me since he mentioned that it was a part of the Felder company and the finish on this machine was just out-of-this-world! But the price was correct.

The good news is that it is, in fact, a 4 hp machine. The bad news (?) is that it is wired for a 20 amp plug.

Can a 20 amp machine run on household 10 amps, like the 15 amp tablesaws, etc, or must I plumb in a special circuit?

To be delivered on Monday next week. Guess I have a 14"+riser 1.5 HP bandsaw for sale!

Thanks all for the help.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Derek,
congratulations on the purchase - it sounds like a great buy.
I would not run a 20 amp machine on a 10 amp power supply.
For a start you will find that the power plug won't fit - much wider earth pin, but the 10 amp circuit will not handle the load and the fittings will likely get quite hot. I've seen the wiring hot enough to melt the plastic insulation.
Much better to have a 20 amp circuit installed by a qualified tradesman, and if you haven't already got an earth leakage cutout switch on your fuse box, have him install one at the same time.
Mine has saved me once already.
Would love to see some photos. Oh - and will there be a review?
Regards from Tele Point
SG

Yep, I'd be installing a 20A dedicated circuit for the BS and run your DC on another (different) circuit

Originally Posted by Groggy

Waaah, I wants one!

Hi Derek,

What Greg said. Onya. And yes, of course we will all be wanting to see the photos after next Monday.

Cheers,
Pops

It's almost enough to make you catch a (n aero) plane to Perth to go to the BBQ at Derek's on the 4th!

Great buy, Derek. I am green with envy.

G;day Derek, I purchased the BS 500 almost a year ago and now operate it with a Lenox 1.3 TPI 25mm bi-metal blade and it RII...IPS. Jarrah, Sheoak, Brush Box RedGum, Full 300mm capacity resaw of old logs no problem.GOOD VALUE machine sold by Woodfast here in Adelaide. Good people to deal with. Fence not the best but I don't use the fence much. Dust collection is not great and I think I will add a second port in the lower door to improve it. Just my opininion, Kindest regards, Hazard

Derek

We are all waiting now for your review of the bandsaw. I suppose we will have to wait until you get the electrics sorted out.

Hi Derek.

Can you please let us know how much the re-wiring cost? I'm interested to know the total cost of buying this machine

I own the 18" Jet, and I have heaps of praise for the machine. The only issue I have with it is a minor one, that being the need to remove the table (and it's a good size one as bandsaw tables go!) to adjust the bottom guides. No biggy, but it would have been smart to engineer that bit better. It takes a great range of blades (and Henry Bros was both helpful and quick to deliver).

Tracking never falters, and depending upon your budget, it's certainly a wonderful machine for the money in my very humble opinion.

Let us know what you do!

Cheers,
Big Mike

Originally Posted by derekcohen

I had a little windfall in the form of a cheque from the Tax Man. Totally unexpected, and so the Lady Wife has given her blessing to the purchase of a new bandsaw (after deducting several pairs of shoes for herself .. which may not leave anything over .. ).

Anyway, I want to upgrade my 14"-plus-riser 1.5 HP. What I expect from a large BS is a higher quality of finish and solid fittings, the ability to resaw 12" hardwood more easily if I wanted to do so (managed 10" Tassie Oak on my current one), and just a general sense of ease.

I have about $1800-$2000 and have been considering the 17" Carba-tec range and the 18" Jet. I am not sure what else is available in Perth. I'd rather not ship one interstate, unless there was a lower cost to offset the shipping costs. Don't suggest Timbercon - the machines may be good but I refuse to live with anything orange!

The problem with most recommendations is that most are from users of a single machine, so it is not possible to compare different machines this way. I'd love to hear from those who have used/examined a variety of machines, or those who can say what they like/dislike about the machine they have.

Thanks.

Regards from Perth

Derek

SS

I am due to get the power sorted on Monday, if all goes to plan.

It can be said, for those interested in buying a N4400, that the eventual cost is greater than it appears at first.

Basic cost is $2161 + $216 GST = $2377

Add wheels as these machine do need to be movable. The Hammer set are about $240. One can make a set for about $100 (as I plan to do). Add in, if you use one, a mitre fence. Say another $240 (I don't know what they cost so this is a guesstimate). And then add in the cost of power to run a 20A machine. My guess on this is around $500 (but I am having a couple of 15A lines added as well).

Looking at it this way, the true cost is about $3400.

On the bright side, the construction/finish seems superb, and I am getting the updated machine with cast iron wheels (solid, not spoked) and a true 4 hp single phase motor (not a 2.5 hp).

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Derek,

Did you get it up and running successfully?

Cheers,

eddie

Hi Eddie

Thanks for asking.

The electrician is due to complete the installation of a 20A (plus extra 15A and 2 x 10A) circuit this weekend. Until then it will remain parked in the middle of the workshop. Idle. Damn.

What I wanted to ask you was ablout blade tensioning and set up.

With my old bandsaw it was possible to use the wheel tensioner and the wheel aligner together while the wheels were running, with doors open to check that the blade was running on the centre. With the Hammer this may not be possible since the motor will cut out if you open the doors. So how do you go about tensioning a blade and checking that it is running true?

Regards from Perth

Derek