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15th September 2008, 07:36 PM #16
OK, I bought a bandsaw today. The GMC that everyone raves about. They must be good then?
Whom I kidding? I went for the Hammer 4400.
Gawd, it is a beauty! Exceptionally well made. So much so that I had the agent check the price for me since he mentioned that it was a part of the Felder company and the finish on this machine was just out-of-this-world! But the price was correct.
The good news is that it is, in fact, a 4 hp machine. The bad news (?) is that it is wired for a 20 amp plug.
Can a 20 amp machine run on household 10 amps, like the 15 amp tablesaws, etc, or must I plumb in a special circuit?
To be delivered on Monday next week. Guess I have a 14"+riser 1.5 HP bandsaw for sale!
Thanks all for the help.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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15th September 2008 07:36 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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15th September 2008, 07:45 PM #17
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15th September 2008, 07:49 PM #18
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15th September 2008, 09:13 PM #19SENIOR MEMBER
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- Jan 2004
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- 686
Hi Derek,
At 240V and 10A, the motor'll be pulling 2400W = 3.2Hp Startup currents are a bit higher.
I run a 15A plug on mine - I think it's 1.8kW = 2.5Hp
My comments on the saw:
http://woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/...t=n4400&page=4
http://woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/...8&postcount=21
http://woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/...6&postcount=60
http://woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/...400#post409607
http://woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/...400#post331316
Dust emissions a bit higher than other saws I've used.
CHeers,
eddie
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15th September 2008, 09:16 PM #20
Hi Derek,
congratulations on the purchase - it sounds like a great buy.
I would not run a 20 amp machine on a 10 amp power supply.
For a start you will find that the power plug won't fit - much wider earth pin, but the 10 amp circuit will not handle the load and the fittings will likely get quite hot. I've seen the wiring hot enough to melt the plastic insulation.
Much better to have a 20 amp circuit installed by a qualified tradesman, and if you haven't already got an earth leakage cutout switch on your fuse box, have him install one at the same time.
Mine has saved me once already.
Would love to see some photos. Oh - and will there be a review?
Regards from Tele Point
SG.... some old things are lovely
Warm still with the life of forgotten men who made them ........................D.H. Lawrence
https://thevillagewoodworker.blogspot.com/
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15th September 2008, 09:52 PM #21.
- Join Date
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- Perth
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Yep, I'd be installing a 20A dedicated circuit for the BS and run your DC on another (different) circuit
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16th September 2008, 12:29 AM #22
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16th September 2008, 05:46 AM #23
It's almost enough to make you catch a (n aero) plane to Perth to go to the BBQ at Derek's on the 4th!
Great buy, Derek. I am green with envy.Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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17th September 2008, 08:35 PM #24Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2005
- Location
- Adelaide South Australia
- Posts
- 72
Woodfast BS 500
G;day Derek, I purchased the BS 500 almost a year ago and now operate it with a Lenox 1.3 TPI 25mm bi-metal blade and it RII...IPS. Jarrah, Sheoak, Brush Box RedGum, Full 300mm capacity resaw of old logs no problem.GOOD VALUE machine sold by Woodfast here in Adelaide. Good people to deal with. Fence not the best but I don't use the fence much. Dust collection is not great and I think I will add a second port in the lower door to improve it. Just my opininion, Kindest regards, Hazard
how do I join up the shavings?
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18th September 2008, 10:04 AM #25
Derek
We are all waiting now for your review of the bandsaw. I suppose we will have to wait until you get the electrics sorted out.
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19th September 2008, 09:46 PM #26Senior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Canberra
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- 195
Hi Derek.
Can you please let us know how much the re-wiring cost? I'm interested to know the total cost of buying this machine
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19th September 2008, 10:04 PM #27Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2005
- Location
- Mahogany Creek, Western Australia
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 188
I own the 18" Jet, and I have heaps of praise for the machine. The only issue I have with it is a minor one, that being the need to remove the table (and it's a good size one as bandsaw tables go!) to adjust the bottom guides. No biggy, but it would have been smart to engineer that bit better. It takes a great range of blades (and Henry Bros was both helpful and quick to deliver).
Tracking never falters, and depending upon your budget, it's certainly a wonderful machine for the money in my very humble opinion.
Let us know what you do!
Cheers,
Big Mike
"In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is." Yogi Berra
"Experience is the name every one gives to their mistakes." Oscar Wilde
"Whether you think you can or whether you think you can't, you're right." Henry Ford
My website: www.xylophile.com.au
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19th September 2008, 11:04 PM #28
SS
I am due to get the power sorted on Monday, if all goes to plan.
It can be said, for those interested in buying a N4400, that the eventual cost is greater than it appears at first.
Basic cost is $2161 + $216 GST = $2377
Add wheels as these machine do need to be movable. The Hammer set are about $240. One can make a set for about $100 (as I plan to do). Add in, if you use one, a mitre fence. Say another $240 (I don't know what they cost so this is a guesstimate). And then add in the cost of power to run a 20A machine. My guess on this is around $500 (but I am having a couple of 15A lines added as well).
Looking at it this way, the true cost is about $3400.
On the bright side, the construction/finish seems superb, and I am getting the updated machine with cast iron wheels (solid, not spoked) and a true 4 hp single phase motor (not a 2.5 hp).
Regards from Perth
Derek
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26th September 2008, 06:45 PM #29SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jan 2004
- Posts
- 686
Hi Derek,
Did you get it up and running successfully?
Cheers,
eddie
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26th September 2008, 07:31 PM #30
Hi Eddie
Thanks for asking.
The electrician is due to complete the installation of a 20A (plus extra 15A and 2 x 10A) circuit this weekend. Until then it will remain parked in the middle of the workshop. Idle. Damn.
What I wanted to ask you was ablout blade tensioning and set up.
With my old bandsaw it was possible to use the wheel tensioner and the wheel aligner together while the wheels were running, with doors open to check that the blade was running on the centre. With the Hammer this may not be possible since the motor will cut out if you open the doors. So how do you go about tensioning a blade and checking that it is running true?
Regards from Perth
Derek
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