Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 16
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    In the shed, Melbourne
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,883

    Default 1st impressions of the BP-16A

    G'day,

    Having just yesterday picked up my BP-16A from H&F, I thought I might make a thread of my first impressions of it, which may or may not help others considering also buying one and to also find out what others have done to counter some things I found with mine.

    • the height of tabvle from floor:
    my old bandsaw had a table height of 1,100mm which was great given my height, the BP-16A has a table height of 1,000mm which will take some getting used to.

    • the fence:
    could've been longer in length, at 500mm it's 40mm shorter than the C/T Profession Rip Fence, which I had fitted to my old b/saw, so I'm now wondering about a retro fit of the C/T fence to the BP-16A? But what I do like about the BP-16A fence is the track which the trailing end of the fence runs in.

    • changing the blades:
    I know that it's due to the European guides fitted to the b/saw that the blade has to be fitted from the southern side of the table, but taking off the fence to take the blade off to access the table to take off and repaloce with a new blade is a PITA, but there's nothing I can do about that.

    • stability of the b/saw to the floor:
    it's a bit off-balance to me with all the weight of the bandsaw to the front and the bed/base of the b/saw is to the back of the b/saw. I think I'll need to make a larger foot to distribute the weight much better and also to take out some of the vibration that results from this weight distribution.

    • 100mm outlet:
    the outlet is about 7mm from the internal base of the b/saw, so to my thinking and experience so far today is that it could be better to allow better removal by the dusty of the sawdust that collects down there.

    With only one dust port at the bottom and none directly under the table to collect the dust that gathers around the top guides, there's a lot of dust left sitting to collect beneath the table. I could run a wye of the arm that runs from the dusty to the b/saw so that I have two ports (the 1st held by rare earth magnet to the frame of the b/saw and sitting beneath the table to collect the dust drawn dawn and around the top guides), but I wonder if I'll lose suction with a wye to create two dust ports?

    • the thingymebob that moves freely that's attached within the blade guard:
    it has a lip that catches within the housing for the top wheel to shroud the blade dependant on the height you're cutting at. I've found that when you wind the handle to adjust the height to which you can cut, that this freely moving shroud works fine on the down, but when you raise the cutting height that ths shroud can catch and bend as it hits the top wheel - something to be careful of andf watch out for. Not sure if there's a fix on this one or not.

    All up I'm very happy so far. If it helps I'll take some shots to help describe some of the things I've written about that irk me a bit - tomorrow if they're wanted (that among try to do some paid work for a change)
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Age
    46
    Posts
    2,346

    Default

    ha, ha.....Waldo me old son, I can tell you some stories about the good old BP. I will address them later on if needed.

    I am at a basic level of happiness now with mine, but fcuk it took some work.

    Have a look at the problems I had here, and have a look at my mods here.

    I have more to add to this thread later.
    I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones.
    Albert Einstein

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    426

    Default

    Keep it coming waldo

    |^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| |^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
    | .....BIGGER ......._____| | ...BEER TRUCK.....| ||´|";,___.
    |_..._...__________/====|_..._..._______==|=||_|__|..., ] -
    "(@)´(@)"""´´" *|(@)(@) "(@)´(@)"""´´"*|(@)(@)****(@)

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    In the shed, Melbourne
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,883

    Default

    G'day Meerkat,

    I've got a couple of more issues yet, but I need to get back into the shed to confirm a few things on them which I'll post tomorrow.
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  6. #5
    ss_11000 is offline You've got to risk it to get the biscuit
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    32
    Posts
    4,195

    Default

    good to hear ya got a new bs waldo
    S T I R L O

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Parkside - South Australia
    Age
    45
    Posts
    3,318

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Waldo View Post
    All up I'm very happy so far.
    Which part?
    Now proudly sponsored by Binford Tools. Be sure to check out the Binford 6100 - available now at any good tool retailer.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Gorokan Central Coast NSW
    Age
    79
    Posts
    2,765

    Default

    I have had the old style BP16A for a few years now and am quite happy with it. The secret of finding happiness with it is to realise that you didn't pay $1500 - $2000 for it and don't expect it to be like one you paid that much for.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Pambula
    Age
    58
    Posts
    12,779

    Default

    Agree with Termite. I also have the old style one. Must get around to thinking about maybe ordering the new upper guide assembly. But to be honest, it hasn't caused me any real problems to date. Have done a bit of resawing with mixed results but I haven't gotten serious about set up for it yet, so can't blame the saw for any problems I've had there.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    In the shed, Melbourne
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,883

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Termite View Post
    I have had the old style BP16A for a few years now and am quite happy with it. The secret of finding happiness with it is to realise that you didn't pay $1500 - $2000 for it and don't expect it to be like one you paid that much for.
    G'day,

    That's a fair comment. But given that I paid $789 for it, there are some things that could've been done better. You get what you pay for, but you shouldn't have to expect defaults in a machine just for this reason - otherwise why buy anything at all?

    • the fence:
    the handle locking mechanism is too easily bumped and doesn't lock in a tightly as the C/T version which is a better version for this reason.

    • wheel to adjust blade tension:
    Given that it there's alot of difference between the blade being fully tesnsioned and not, the wheel is not hard but a bit of a pain due to it's size and it takes so many turns from off to on. Would have been better in design if it were like the wheel which adjusts the height of the guide assembly, which has a handle attached to the hand wheel.

    But all in all I'm very happy with my purchase. I haven't looked to find if the wheels are co-planar, with some very quick adjusting of the guides it's cutting very well and the blade is running nice and true. When I first ran it I was getting some filings from something somewhere, so I had a look behind the guides and found another guide that runs behind the blade, it was lose and had turned the wrong way around - a quich adjustment of it and np.

    The fence is off square by .25mm so I have a little bit of fidling to do.

    I just received 2 x 2950 1/4" 6tpi blades from Max at C&S Saw Service, so when it comes time to fit and track new blades that will be the test to how I really find the b/saw to set up.
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Age
    46
    Posts
    2,346

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Waldo View Post
    G'day,

    That's a fair comment. But given that I paid $789 for it, there are some things that could've been done better. You get what you pay for, but you shouldn't have to expect defaults in a machine just for this reason - otherwise why buy anything at all? .
    Yes true, but I think you have to make some trade offs with this machine for the price. I don't think there is any other saw at this price that has a 2 HP motor and the slightly extra depth in the throat.
    I think a line has to be drawn somewhere between genuine faults with the machinery and just average design and machine construction.

    Quote Originally Posted by Waldo View Post
    • the fence:
    the handle locking mechanism is too easily bumped and doesn't lock in a tightly as the C/T version which is a better version for this reason..
    Do you mean if you bump the handle in an up wards motion?
    Mine has never un-locked and seems to clamp down well. If I want it totally rigid, you can just put a clamp on the end that has the bearing which runs in a track.
    Quote Originally Posted by Waldo View Post
    • wheel to adjust blade tension:
    Given that it there's a lot of difference between the blade being fully tesnsioned and not, the wheel is not hard but a bit of a pain due to it's size and it takes so many turns from off to on. Would have been better in design if it were like the wheel which adjusts the height of the guide assembly, which has a handle attached to the hand wheel..
    Agreed, but once you get comfortable with the saw, you wont have to do it that often.

    Quote Originally Posted by Waldo View Post
    But all in all I'm very happy with my purchase. I haven't looked to find if the wheels are co-planar, with some very quick adjusting of the guides it's cutting very well and the blade is running nice and true. When I first ran it I was getting some filings from something somewhere, so I had a look behind the guides and found another guide that runs behind the blade, it was lose and had turned the wrong way around - a quich adjustment of it and np.

    The fence is off square by .25mm so I have a little bit of fidling to do.

    I just received 2 x 2950 1/4" 6tpi blades from Max at C&S Saw Service, so when it comes time to fit and track new blades that will be the test to how I really find the b/saw to set up.
    When you change to your new blades, make sure you adjust the wheels for coplanar after tensioning the blade and get the band running as close to the centre of the wheels as possible. Adjust all of your guides last.,........just my 2c worth.
    I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones.
    Albert Einstein

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    In the shed, Melbourne
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,883

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by martrix View Post
    Do you mean if you bump the handle in an up wards motion?
    G'day Matrix,

    Yes to the above. It bumps very easily and doesn't lock down to well. On your other comments, thanks.
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Age
    46
    Posts
    2,346

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by silentC View Post
    Agree with Termite. I also have the old style one. Must get around to thinking about maybe ordering the new upper guide assembly. But to be honest, it hasn't caused me any real problems to date. Have done a bit of resawing with mixed results but I haven't gotten serious about set up for it yet, so can't blame the saw for any problems I've had there.
    IMHO, if you haven't had any problems with the old style guides, then don't downgrade to the new ones .
    I might have a spare set going cheap soon anyway.
    I got rid of them all together. Does anyone have a nice clear pic of the "old" guides up close?
    I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones.
    Albert Einstein

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    In the shed, Melbourne
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,883

    Default

    G'day,

    The other thing I don't like

    • the carpy table insert:
    Gave it a bump out with a screwdriver to access a guide under the table and being made out of flimsy spongy plastic it copped a bit of damage. When I can find a piece of aluminium of the same thickness I'll be cutting a new insert.

    Minor gripe, but easily fixed. Some of my comments, as Matrix has commented on are more design faults/or matter of opinion within the b/saw.

    For the price it's a beaut b/saw for 16" and a bit more cutting height than others on the market for near the price.
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Gorokan Central Coast NSW
    Age
    79
    Posts
    2,765

    Default

    To put things into perspective I only paid $625 for mine, and at that price I'm real happy.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Age
    46
    Posts
    2,346

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by martrix View Post
    Does anyone have a nice clear pic of the "old" guides up close?
    Talking to my self now.....

    Are these the old guides? Tanks TTIT.
    .....
    I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones.
    Albert Einstein

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Correct Balde length for HF 16A
    By mcchaddy in forum BANDSAWS
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 30th November 2006, 05:11 PM
  2. 1st Greek Pen and 1st Opalac
    By PenTurner in forum WOODTURNING - PEN TURNING
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 17th November 2006, 09:29 PM
  3. My 1st HollowForm and 1st Collar
    By Gil Jones in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 12th May 2006, 11:58 AM
  4. My 1st project
    By Harry72 in forum WOODWORK PICS
    Replies: 25
    Last Post: 20th February 2005, 10:22 PM
  5. First impressions of Beadlock
    By Arron in forum HAND TOOLS - POWERED
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 31st October 2003, 03:57 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •