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  1. #16
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    Dec 2008
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    Coffs Harbour
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    Thanks for such a comprehensive reply T91. I have been utilising your bandsaw set-up proceedure from a different thread. I've certainly learned volumes thanks to your kind sharing of your experience and knowledge, sincerely appreciated. The little 1/2" 3TPI Woodmaster B runs and cuts beautifully, but I'm not sure this old bandsaw can put enough tension on the 3/4" blade to make it work as intended, without at least stripping the tensioning screw! I will give it another go at some time in the near future, just to see what I can work out with it.....if I can't get enough tension on it it's not the end of the world as the 1/2" blade is a joy to use! Cheers.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
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    This morning I mounted and set-up the 3/4" blade on the bandsaw using the method T91 described above. I payed particular attention to the rear guides and set them slightly further back than previous. I also tensioned the blade as much as possible and fed it a piece of old, dry 70mm hardwood "freehand", very slowly and very carefully. It appeared that there was a noticeable reduction in the amount of drift, not totally absent but certainly far better than the previous attempt. So I was pleased to be able to register sufficient improvement as to make the blade usable.......hopefully more experience with it will bring further improvement again. Next time I will try it with the fence, that will be the acid test!

  4. #18
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NSW
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    489

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    Sounds like you are getting somewhere Nigel. From research I did years ago I came across a couple of articles that described using a bandsaw fence that was basically a single round post that sat beside the blade and could be adjusted for the thickness of timber to be cut. This allowed the timber to be steered through the sawing process to allow for the blade wandering. There was a whole lot of info on how the blade actually cuts and why it wanders, 99% of which I have forgotten but if your experiment of cutting with the fence is less than you expect perhaps some more reading on the subject will get you the result you want.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

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    Next time I will try it with the fence, that will be the acid test!
    That could be more of a test of the timber than the blade.

    If the timber you are cutting has a tendency to move, that is, the kerf gets wider, then the board will want to push one side away from the fence. That will cause the cut to wander.

    I came up with a method for this here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered...heBandsaw.html

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    489

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    Thanks for that info Derek. I was reluctant to try the single pin fence idea, probably because I was worried about being able to follow the line on the timber and if the timber was a lump of "natural round" it was going to be even harder bit your idea has real merit. The wood is presented to the blade in a controlled manner and timber movement after the cut won't cause problems by pushing the blade. Brilliant! Thanks for sharing.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
    Posts
    34

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    Thanks for that Derek, very interesting and has given me much food for thought, loved the design of your re-saw fence, and Ethan's video was extremely informative and enjoyable! I shall definitely take all that info on board; the 4x4 post I tried to cut previously was bloodwood, and a nasty piece at that, I am certainly enjoying the learning curve and I'm very thankful for the help and support everyone has given. Cheers.
    Last edited by nigelr; 8th December 2020 at 08:04 AM. Reason: additional

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