Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 19
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Warragul, Victoria
    Age
    64
    Posts
    372

    Default Adjusting bearings on Hafco bandsaws

    I just bought a 12" Hafco bandsaw (BP-310) and I've watched many videos on adjusting the guide bearings and most of those show easily accessible bearings with clear visibility but on the Hafco's the bearings are hard to see, particularly the thrust bearings and you need to be a contortionist to adjust the bottom bearings as visibility is really difficult. The guard hides the top bearings and you need a torch to see the gap or as I've learnt to do just keep moving the wheel until the bearings don't move but you can't see the gap between the thrust bearings and the blade. That has to be done by feel.
    Does anyone remove the table to access the bottom bearings? Has anyone removed part of the top guard? I've read on here that Hafco owners have found this fiddly. That's an understatement!
    Do any owners have some really good tips?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Hi Barri,

    I also own a BP-310, or it may be the BP-360 I can't remember exactly off the top of my head. Adjusting the bearings is one of the worst aspects of the saw. They are difficult to access but even worse in my opinion is they don't stay put but move over time as the mechanism is not very robust.

    Not sure what can be done to remedy it sorry.

    Cheers Jarrod

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    33

    Default

    Hi Barri
    I had the same problem on my Sherwood, complicated by an uncooperative back, so (with a little help) I made my own bearing guides and adjustment mechanism.
    To date I am VERY pleased with my setup.
    A few photos around the bearings/guides area might help.
    If it's anything like mine I can send you some pics showing what I did.
    cheers
    Keith

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Warragul, Victoria
    Age
    64
    Posts
    372

    Default

    Yes Jarrod, its is the worst part of what otherwise is a pretty good saw. I wanted the BP-310 (12") as it provides a perfect balance, size and power, between the more professional 14" saws and the hobby 10" saws. Timbecon's model is exactly the same except for the colour scheme but Machinery Warehouse is lot closer to home and they are both about the same price. I've had no trouble cutting anything curved or straight and overall I'm pretty happy with my purchase but when I changed to a thinner blade I realized that the bearing adjustment is bloody difficult. Getting the bearings just behind the gullets was easy, getting the bearings close to the side of the blade was just OK but you need to look closely through a tiny gap in the blade guard but it is a hit and miss procedure. To be able to use feeler gauges would help a lot but that gap is not in line with the blade. The thrust bearing was very difficult as you can't see the gap. I tried a torch which helped a bit but it was a matter of trial and error. Yes I have got them adjusted properly now with the saw running smoothly but what an ordeal.

    Here's one tip I learnt when installing thin blades. I got the blade around the top wheel OK but it kept coming off when I moved to the bottom wheel so I hand clamped the blade around the top wheel and that worked perfectly. I hope someone can give me a good tip on adjusting those f@#$$ing bearings

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Warragul, Victoria
    Age
    64
    Posts
    372

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by verawood View Post

    A few photos around the bearings/guides area might help.
    keith, If your Sherwood is a recent purchase then its probably exactly the same.

    You can see the thrust bearing is almost hidden and the blade guard almost hides the gap between the bearings and blade so the guard actually covers the bearings. Most of the other brands have the guard above the bearings making it easier to adjust. The bottom bearings are worse

    Bearings.JPG

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    47

    Default

    I put a piece of masking tape around my blade, run rear thrust bearing up to the back and lock off, then adjust the left and right bearings the same way, hand rotate the blade and check as it comes around. All good, remove tape.
    Yes they are fiddly.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Warragul, Victoria
    Age
    64
    Posts
    372

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Potts View Post
    I put a piece of masking tape around my blade, run rear thrust bearing up to the back and lock off, then adjust the left and right bearings the same way, hand rotate the blade and check as it comes around. All good, remove tape.
    Yes they are fiddly.
    That's a brilliant idea. Exactly what I was after. I assume this applies to the top and bottom guides. Anyway I'll try it and report back

    BTW How many times did you wrap the masking tape around the blade? I'm assuming one

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    33

    Default

    Hi Barri

    My saw was Timbecon's previous range, unfortunately no similarity.
    Good luck with your quest.
    cheers
    Keith

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    63
    Posts
    48

    Default

    with the upper guides, get out a hacksaw and remove part of the blade guard (about 50mm) so you can see the gap on the upper bearings.

    As for the lower bearings, remove the throat plate and look down to see what is happening, rather than try to look at it from the front. the method of rotating the lower wheel to see if the bearings are moving, then back off is pretty much the best I've found. What I actually do is move the inner bearing up till its touching the blade, have it finger tight then rotate the wheel letting the blade weld knock it away a few times, till the bearing stops rotating (it should then be a minimum distance). Then lock it down. Repeat for outer bearing.

    Best

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    23,290

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by barri View Post
    That's a brilliant idea. Exactly what I was after. I assume this applies to the top and bottom guides. Anyway I'll try it and report back

    BTW How many times did you wrap the masking tape around the blade? I'm assuming one
    I was told this trick a few years back but when I tried it with the masking tape I had available it was tad too thick and left too much of a gap so I use ordinary sticky tape. I use only one layer.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Warragul, Victoria
    Age
    64
    Posts
    372

    Default

    I was thinking blue tape but will try sticky tape if the gap is too big. I believe blue tape is about 0.1mm which sounds about right

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    47

    Default

    one layer only, works for me.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Warragul, Victoria
    Age
    64
    Posts
    372

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by T91 View Post
    with the upper guides, get out a hacksaw and remove part of the blade guard (about 50mm) so you can see the gap on the upper bearings.
    I thought about that considering that part of the guard is irrelevant from a safety point of view but my bandsaw is less than a week old so I'm reluctant to modify it at this stage but this does seem like a sensible thing to do.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    63
    Posts
    48

    Default

    I was reluctant, till about the 2nd blade change. None of the other 5 bandsaws i maintain have a guard that obscures the guides, and I did not need it for any purpose, so I hack-sawed it off even with the top of the guide mounting block

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    N.E. suburbs Melbourne
    Posts
    36

    Default

    not wishing to hijack this thread, but if I can ask keith (verawood) to post or send me pics of his guide adjustments, I hopefully could incorporate it into my Sherwood BS (or at least get an idea)
    Eric

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 1
    Last Post: 11th Nov 2016, 10:31 AM
  2. Adjusting side bearings
    By mat in forum BANDSAWS
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 30th Jan 2014, 06:16 PM
  3. Adjusting Bandsaws
    By SNAFU11 in forum BANDSAWS
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 21st May 2013, 06:56 AM
  4. Replies: 52
    Last Post: 9th Aug 2011, 11:37 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •