Thread: Band Saw Driving Me Crazy

Bandsaws are a learning curve so dont despair. Set up with the snodgrass method.
Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass - YouTube
Quite often just a but more tension on the blade makes a big difference because those tension guages are only a rough guide and of course the blade needs to be sharp. If after all that the cut still wanders then use a single point fence.
Pivoting Fence / Resaw Bandsaw Fence Using a Magswitch Jig - YouTube
Regards
John

Wanders... is this a consistent left or right. You've changed blades, so that'd normally eliminate the problem.
My only thoughts would be tension, or the wheel bearings.
Watching this thread so as to learn more.
Hopefully you'll be able to sort this out.
Lyle

My method.

Back off all guides

Tension and track the blade to the centre of the wheels

Loosen but do not remove the table that hold it to the trunnion mount

Attach a straight edge to the blade so the straight edge is not touching the teeth. I use a 300mm steel rule held by a magnet but a small clamp would do the same.

Align the mitre slot to the straight edge so it is exactly parallel by moving the table. After this is done tighten the mount screws and recheck it hasn't moved.

Adjust the fence to be parallel with the Mitre slot.

Adjust all the guides as needed.

If it now does not cut parallel to the fence the blades are the issue.

When it is set up properly a sliding sled is a very useful addition to any band saw.

Have a look at this link for some handy stuff for BS's. It is Italian video but that does not matter.




And this one is in German

Thanks Guys.

John. I've seen the Alex Snodgrass stuff but I'm still in trouble. I'm going to try the pivoting fence though.

Lyle. Reasonably consistent left turn (as I face the saw). I think the bearings are OK but I'll check again. I'll post here if I find a fix.

Chris. Thanks. I'll have a look at the videos. With your tune up method is there a way on your saw you can "twist" the table on the trunion to align it to the balde? With my saw there doesn't appear to be any adjustment leeway between the table and the trunion - the bolts are not in slots just normal holes the size of the bolts. There are slots for the bolts where the trunion mounts to the saw body but these only allow left/right table/trunion adjustment. I think I might be able to solve my problem (mostly anyway) if I had a way to rotate the table horizontally and fix it so it aligns with the blade using your straight edge idea.

Chris

Loosening the bolts that hold the table to the trunnion mount will allow the table to be moved. If there is not enough movement which is unlikely then take the table off and drill the bolt holes a bit bigger. It is the bolt head that clamps and holds the table to the trunnion when the bolts are tightened and not the bolt shaft itself so drilling the holes another 1mm bigger will not affect anything apart from allowing more movement. Pivoting the fence is a band aid to correct the underlying problem.

In this thread Bandsaw Drift and Correcting It you can see how I attached the rule to the blade using two magnets. A spacer between the rule and the blade held with a small clamp would do the same thing.

Thanks Chris. Definitely don't have the movement so my next step may have to be to enlarge the bolt holes in the trunion.
Chris

Had problems with tracking on new bandsaw at Men's Shed until wheels were adjusted to make them coplanar.

You may have already checked this. If not, all you need is a long straight edge.

See simple instructions starting from 4min:30sec mark in this video.

How To: Bandsaw Tracking & Coplanar Adjustment - YouTube

I have the same Bandsaw as yours and have no problem with cutting straight as long as the blades are sharp,

Originally Posted by NeilS

Had problems with tracking on new bandsaw at Men's Shed until wheels were adjusted to make them coplanar.

You may have already checked this. If not, all you need is a long straight edge.

This.

If the wheels aren't co-planar the blade can randomly 'belly out' to either side of true. Increasing tension can reduce the degree of wander, but won't eliminate it. Besides which, over-tension is not good for any part of the saw.

Originally Posted by orificiam

I have the same Bandsaw as yours and have no problem with cutting straight as long as the blades are sharp,

Tried a number of blades. All new so assume sharpness isn't the issue.

Thanks Neil and Skew. I'll check the coplaner issue but I'm starting to wonder if this whole band saw business isn't some kind of dark art. One expert tells you coplaner isn't an issue and not to mess with it. Snodgrass even says some manufacturers build in non-coplaner alignment because that's how their saws work. Another says wheels must be coplaner. I'll give it a go but I'm not sure about the issue.

More tension, new blades stretch, need more tension.

Originally Posted by doragus

Thanks Chris. Definitely don't have the movement so my next step may have to be to enlarge the bolt holes in the trunion.
Chris

No, enlarge the bolt holes in the table if there is not enough movement. Are the bolt holes counter bored?

Originally Posted by doragus

Thanks Neil and Skew. I'll check the coplaner issue but I'm starting to wonder if this whole band saw business isn't some kind of dark art. One expert tells you coplaner isn't an issue and not to mess with it. Snodgrass even says some manufacturers build in non-coplaner alignment because that's how their saws work. Another says wheels must be coplaner. I'll give it a go but I'm not sure about the issue.

I tend to agree with Snodgrass and am yet to see any sort of valid explanation of why setting up the bandsaw basics should not come first.